Wilson Leaf spring fixed the issue???
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Ares Armor 1911 80% Build Experience
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Maybe for a while? I can't help but think one of these is going to slip at a bad time and someone will get hurt. Your gun will go full auto when you're not expecting it.
I'm going to put something in mine to keep that spring from moving over.
Too many people have had this problem.Comment
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Thats what I did I insereted a little piece of an old broken leaf spring, That I cut and filed to fit with the railing then glued it in so not to have to worry about it.
I have over 500rds down the pipe plus countless snap caps just for SAG sakes never a problem. Taken it apart numerous times to verify (cuz at first I was afraid of a full auto 1911) but as of yet nothing.Comment
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As for just a leaf spring fixing the issue I cant see how thats why I asked that .Comment
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I think if a sear spring has a little more bend (more tension), and a deeper hook that goes into the slot it will cover up the problem, but I think things could still go bad when you least expect it.Comment
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think of it this way, You have the grips on two sides of the make shift plate, then on one side is the main spring housing and on the other is the sear spring.
If done properly you have it completely boxed in and no place to go. I added the glue just so when I take it apart it doesnt fall off.Comment
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you really cant reliability bend the sear spring laterally to the right to compensate. I would try a slightly wider sear spring like Wilson Combat, and/or build up the left inner corner of the grip so as to block the sear spring from going so far to the left. Crazy glue type glue I think will ultimately prove too brittle for this application. 1911s are so much a matter of trial and error and getting the right combo of parts fitted and working properly with each other.Last edited by machrono; 05-16-2014, 8:15 AM.Comment
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Speaking of Ghetto!
I ended up building up the metal frame with JB Weld two part putty, and building up the gap in the grip with layers of tape. If one fails the other should hold the spring in place. I have run about 250 rounds through mine and it's holding up well. At some point I will weld the gap up and machine it to spec, but for now it's running well.Comment
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Just to add to the mix - just put these two together tonight after cerakoting them this morning.
Hopefully they just go bang, and not bang, bang, bang, bang, bang. . .


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Frame breakage
Well after a year and a half, I have the money and bought the 1911 kit. Started to assemble and I got as far as the magazine release. Installed it, pushed it and snap went the opposite side of the frame where you insert the safety. It is a very small area that is obviously weak and leaves me with a useless frame. I sent an email to Ares armor and will let you know how they choose to resolve the problem.Comment
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Been there.
The slot that the magazine catch lock turns into is NOT low enough and needs to be filed downward. Otherwise all the pushing pressure is put onto a very small area, but you know that now.
Ares really needs to address ALL the issues these frames have. They need to be fixed BUT you can work around most of the problems IF you know about them upfront.Comment
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yep, guess I should have done more research before jumping into the build. Anyone know where I can get a replacement lower? Just the polymer portion. Thanks for any input.Comment
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You must have a gen 1 grip. If so, they should send you a gen 2 free of charge. Stronger mag release slot among other changes, but you should still use a reduced power mag release spring.Well after a year and a half, I have the money and bought the 1911 kit. Started to assemble and I got as far as the magazine release. Installed it, pushed it and snap went the opposite side of the frame where you insert the safety. It is a very small area that is obviously weak and leaves me with a useless frame. I sent an email to Ares armor and will let you know how they choose to resolve the problem.Comment
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I had the same problem with gen 2 grips. Ares needs to fix these.Comment
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