Gp100 vs 686 vs sp101

[winnre]

I got my GP100 for the same reason -- a great price. Anyone have a 586 and wanna trade for a GP100 and some cash let me know!

[Freq18Hz]

Some of this has already been said, but here's my take:

Newer 686's don't hold a candle to the old ones. Besides the crappy lock, they aren't made with as consistent tolerances, and use MIM parts. You can get a good one, but it's not like the old days. It's possible to get a really crappy gun now, if you don't look it over with a fine toothed comb first. Regardless of what you buy, you should always use the revolver check out procedure that QBG sticky'd for any new or used revolver.

Rugers are built to last for sure, but because they are cast and not forged, they are also bigger than the smith's. S&W gets more strength for the size, which is why they are smaller. Ruger triggers also don't hold a candle to a S&W. Yes you can give the Ruger's a trigger job, but at best they match a stock S&W trigger. You can modify the S&W's to be beyond incredible.

So basic pro's/con's are:

686
+has the best trigger
+has the best grip options
+smaller size for the same weight/strength
+better finish (debatable)
+better aesthetics (debatable, but they are the defacto revolver standard)
+better resale value
- current production models have a lock that can fail and looks ugly
- more expensive than Ruger

GP100
+ built like a tank
+ can shoot hot magnum loads all day long without breaking a sweat
+ significantly cheaper, especially if buying used
+ more consistent tolerances from gun to gun
+ NO LOCK!
- very inferior trigger
- aesthetics/finish not as nice (debatable)
- poorer resale value


Were I you, I would try to find a 6 shot no lock 686. It's a better gun than the newer 7 shots, or the GP100.

Barring that, I'd probably get the GP100 instead. The lameness of the lock just can't be ignored IMHO. Other folks however, have no issues with the lock and enjoy their newer Smith's just fine. For me, there have been enough reports of guns binding up that it just can't be overlooked.

686-3 4"



-Freq

[winnre]

MIM parts????

Made In Malaysia???

[ns3v3n]

MIM parts????

Made In Malaysia???

LOL I believe it's Metal Injection Molding.

[dls]

The 686 is prettier for sure, if you have the cash that's what I would get.

I've had the GP100 since 1991, in single action the trigger is fine,not as nice as my Colt Anaconda,and I'm sure not as nice as the 686, but for the money pretty good.
I put a spring kit in my S&W 442,smoothed the trigger out a bit,not too difficult,maybe if you feel the need you can get one for the GP100.

Bass pro Manteca usually has them both in Stock,last few times I've been there.

[Pistolgrip Pump]

That guide definitely helps because I would have no idea what I'm doing otherwise. Is it bad to dry fire a gun? I have a shotgun and I don't dry fire but some people say its bad and I've read about other people dry firing it all the time.

[JJE]

Almost everybody says the 686 trigger is better than the GP100, but I think they are so close that most people would rate them equally in a blind test.

Also, unless you have lots of revolver trigger time, you are probably going to think both triggers are very good out of the box, so don't rush into a trigger job until you've shot whichever gun you eventually get.

Finally, the SP101 - I think mostly because it's so much smaller than the 686 and GP100 - does not have as nice a trigger as either of the bigger guns.

[newbee1111]

I thought the lock engaging thing was only an issue for small framed revolvers firing .38 +p loads.

[XDRoX]

I thought the lock engaging thing was only an issue for small framed revolvers firing .38 +p loads.

I have a Model 60 with a lock which I believe is the smallest 357 they make.
With full powered 357mag loads in it it's hard to hold on to. I've never had a problem with the lock. Even though it still bugs me. Not enough to remove it, but still it bugs.

[wild_weasel]

I remember when the GP-100 came out, in the mid 80's, S&W did a great trash talk add with a gun shaped hamburger with a GP-100 grip, that played on "where is the beef." Almost 30 years after buying it Ruger rebuilt my GP-100 for free! The GP-100 was desinged to handle a steady diet of 357 Mag 125gr JHPs which my gun has and will continue to do. At the time 125gr JHPs were wearing out K-frames at an alarming rate.

[gunprofit]

686 is foraged frame

GP100 is investment cast. Its bigger and thicker to have the same strength.

7 shots is better than 6

Always buy Smith. Is definitely more accurate

Smith is pre-drilled and tapped for optics to boot

Oh yeah, the 686 is available with 8 3/8 barrel, my second favorite length, 5" being my 1st.

[br1an]

Hi all,
This is the 2nd GP100 vs 686 thread I've seen mentioning the S&W "lock" - can somebody post pics of what this is or describe its function? It sounds completely dumb, which is a shame, because I was leaning towards a 686+ .357 w/ 4" barrel in SS.. love it, but the GP100 may win out due to this issue. Where can I read more info / anybody have more personal experience with the new ones?

Based on all the "WTB pre-lock S&W.." messages I see everywhere, I take it they're hard to find?

[ns3v3n]

Hi all,
This is the 2nd GP100 vs 686 thread I've seen mentioning the S&W "lock" - can somebody post pics of what this is or describe its function? It sounds completely dumb, which is a shame, because I was leaning towards a 686+ .357 w/ 4" barrel in SS.. love it, but the GP100 may win out due to this issue. Where can I read more info / anybody have more personal experience with the new ones?

Based on all the "WTB pre-lock S&W.." messages I see everywhere, I take it they're hard to find?

HI Br1an,

Look at post #39, that little black hole behind the cylinder release is the lock people talk about. There have been cases that because of that internal lock, the gun will lock up complete after shooting it. Also S&W purists hate the look of it. Basically you can use a key to turn the lock and it will make the gun inoperable, safety thing I suppose.

[br1an]

HI Br1an,

Look at post #39, that little black hole behind the cylinder release is the lock people talk about. There have been cases that because of that internal lock, the gun will lock up complete after shooting it. Also S&W purists hate the look of it. Basically you can use a key to turn the lock and it will make the gun inoperable, safety thing I suppose.

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it. I'd have to check one out in person to see if it's a true dealbreaker - both the GP100 and 686 sound like fantastic weapons, so that might be the deciding factor.

[Freq18Hz]

It's a child safety lock. It won't be a deal breaker unless it malfunctions, and jams your gun up with live ammo in it.

-Freq