can someone explain what holds a pistol's barrel to make it accurate?

[Big Chudungus]

A Glock for example. Seems like the ring at the end of the slide does, but how does that work when things start changing temperature?

I'd think in order to hold it so close to to the barrel accurately that once the barrel heats up it would want to bind in the slide's ring, but I'm barely seeing any scuff marks on the end of the barrel.

Is it heating up the ring on the slide and everything stays copacetic through a wide range of temperatures?

[Quiet]

When fully assembled, the locking block on the frame and the barrel's hood is what holds the barrel in place.
The slide contains the barrel and unlocks from the barrel's hood when the slide is cycled while the locking block keeps the barrel in place.

As long as the muzzle of the barrel is not damaged, any minor damage to the pistol's slide front end would not affect the pistol's accuracy.

[M1NM]

On Glocks the barrel is only held by the top of the slide and lower block by the rear area. To try and capture the front of the barrel would not work well due to changes in dimensions when it heats up.
Manufacturers design their handguns for defense. A few shots and we're done. They don't really plan for someone to fire 100 rounds and hour for a couple hours. Most guns will do it but all the shots won't be in the 10 ring. That is where the specialized tuner come into play.

[Snoopy47]

A Glock for example. Seems like the ring at the end of the slide does, but how does that work when things start changing temperature?

I'd think in order to hold it so close to to the barrel accurately that once the barrel heats up it would want to bind in the slide's ring, but I'm barely seeing any scuff marks on the end of the barrel.

Is it heating up the ring on the slide and everything stays copacetic through a wide range of temperatures?

The slide and barrel are going to "heat up" differently.

I've actually had function problems as a result of "cold" not hot. I had a Les Baer cause problems in the cold, for which I believe the cold was the issue, but the slide and frame bound up, not the barrel.

There are youtube videos of Glock endurance tests where they shoot it until failure using a G18 in automatic mode and keep shooting until it basically melts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub4OswUhLwo

basically 1200+ rounds 40 magazines at full auto until it stopped working, then they took it off line fixed it and got it going again

[hermosabeach]

Glocks lock up fairly tight.

When you buy a high end match barrel it's quite common that they need to be fitted by a good gun smith

They remove metal to get a very tight lock up


It's funny
Lock a slide to the rear and shake the gun - they rattle

Close them and the lock up makes them tight

[splithoof]

On a 1911, barrel lockup is achieved in several ways, such as the link & pin, locking lugs on top of the barrel and their fitment in the slide, and also the barrel bushing. The frame rails and the tolerances with matching grooves in the slide also help accuracy. These all must be balanced carefully, as to ensure reliable function, but fitted tight enough to ensure repeatability every time that the pistol goes into battery. Hopefully a good 1911 smith will be along to correct me if needed.

[MechaDad]

Threads like this remind me that the more I know, the more I know that I don't know jack.

Layman's answer to OP:
NOT YOUR LEFT HAND.

[ar15barrels]

A Glock for example. Seems like the ring at the end of the slide does, but how does that work when things start changing temperature?

I'd think in order to hold it so close to to the barrel accurately that once the barrel heats up it would want to bind in the slide's ring, but I'm barely seeing any scuff marks on the end of the barrel.

Is it heating up the ring on the slide and everything stays copacetic through a wide range of temperatures?

The barrel locks into the front and rear of the slide on a glock and is held in lockup by the locking ramp in the frame.
The slide and barrel are fitted loose enough that temperature change does not matter.
Glock factory barrels are sloppy loose at the ramp which limits mechanical accuracy.
This fit can be tightened up either by adding a fitting pad and then fitting it or by using an aftermarket barrel that is made oversized so that it can be hand fitted.

I do this type of barrel fitting work.

[FNGGlock]

Certain H&K models use an o-ring on the barrel for consistent lockup with the slide.

This is a good excuse for bad day at the range with pistols, it was too hot/cold and the pistol was not as accurate :-)

[JTROKS]

On a 1911, barrel lockup is achieved in several ways, such as the link & pin, locking lugs on top of the barrel and their fitment in the slide, and also the barrel bushing. The frame rails and the tolerances with matching grooves in the slide also help accuracy. These all must be balanced carefully, as to ensure reliable function, but fitted tight enough to ensure repeatability every time that the pistol goes into battery. Hopefully a good 1911 smith will be along to correct me if needed.

[Oceanbob]

When fully assembled, the locking block on the frame and the barrel's hood is what holds the barrel in place.
The slide contains the barrel and unlocks from the barrel's hood when the slide is cycled while the locking block keeps the barrel in place.

As long as the muzzle of the barrel is not damaged, any minor damage to the pistol's slide front end would not affect the pistol's accuracy.

[ar15barrels]

On a 1911, barrel lockup is achieved in several ways, such as the link & pin, locking lugs on top of the barrel and their fitment in the slide, and also the barrel bushing. The frame rails and the tolerances with matching grooves in the slide also help accuracy. These all must be balanced carefully, as to ensure reliable function, but fitted tight enough to ensure repeatability every time that the pistol goes into battery. Hopefully a good 1911 smith will be along to correct me if needed.

On the 1911 design, the link is only there to MOVE the barrel up and down while the slide is in motion relative to the frame.
The link is NOT part of the actual lockup.
The actual lockup occurs by wedging the barrel between the slide stop pin and the slide.



The locking lugs on both the barrel and slide are obviously engaged while the barrel is locked into the slide.



The bushing holds the front of the barrel.

[saudadeii]

Depends. What many describe above is a locked breech, tilting barrel.

Other handguns (usually .380 and smaller calibers) are blowback so their barrel is sometimes fixed to the frame. Only the recoil spring holds them in battery.

Beretta 92 series (and 96) using a tilting block (not the barrel) to lock in battery.

Beretta PX4s use a rotating barrel.

[splithoof]

I’m thinking you’re referring to the slide stop being the pin. The only job the link has is to tilt the barrel up and down during cycling. There has been some aftermarket link marketed to be an instant accurizer, but it’s not very reliable.

Correct; however, I believe that if there is too much “slop” when those parts are pushing up (slide-stop, pin), the barrel can easily be pushed “down” when in battery by thumb pressure. On my NHC’s, TRP, SA PRO, etc., when the pistol is in battery, I can’t force the rear of the barrel down slightly, as I can with other budget, and GI pistols. Those other pistols tend to string shots vertically on the target, when fired from a Ransom rest. The higher end pistols don’t. If I mentioned the link, my mistake, should have looked closer.
Thank you Randall for the illustrations.
At least that’s what I’m trying to convey…

[ar15barrels]

Depends.

The OP specified a Glock which is of-course a locked breech tilting barrel.