Help Identifying Used S&W Model 60

[fun_and_gun]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a used Smith and Wesson Model 60. I was hoping I could get some help identifying it, hopefully the year made since I need to purchase a few things for it but those things usually list some kind of range of j-frame they will fit on. Primary thing I am looking to buy is a new hammer spring, as I took it to the range for the first time yesterday and had one light primer strike that failed to ignite the primer when doing double action shooting. Strange enough I could not find any other primers that looked like they were light, but I figure it's probably at least two decades old I might as well replace that spring anyways.

Information I know:
It's a model 60 and doesn't have a dash after the "mod. 60" on the frame by the cylinder.
It's a round handle.
It firing pin is on the hammer.
I don't see a pin anywhere near where the barrel goes into the frame.
There isn't an internal lock.

There are several other numbers and such stamped around the firearm, but I don't know which ones would be helpful for identifying. Any help would be much appreciated!

[Barbarosa]

We'd need a serial number to give you a year (stamped on the bottom of the butt - give the last two digits as XX if you worry about such). The main thing you need to know if hammer mounted vs frame mounted firing pin, and you already answered that question.

I've bought several J frames over the years and have had a few that have the light primer strikes. Usually it is caused by a previous owner putting in light springs to lessen trigger pull. I suggest starting with a Wilson Combat custom-tune spring kit (less than $10). It comes with 3 different weight springs so you have to start light, test function, and go heavier if needed. If that doesn't solve your problem the next step is an extended hammer nose (about $32). That should solve your problem.

Both jobs are easy if you are handy with hand tools and there are plenty of videos on youtube showing you how to do it. If it was me I would start with the spring kit and see if that fixes it. There is a special tool from S&W to replace the rebound springs ($20) but you can do it with a ball-point pen with the pen part removed.

I've only had one gun that needed the new hammer nose - it wouldn't ignite primers on my reloads but would fire factory rounds fine. After the new hammer nose it fires everything.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/848526/wilson-combat-custom-tune-spring-kit-s-and-w-j-frame

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/840449/power-custom-s-and-w-hammer-nose-rivet-style-j-frame-case-hardened-steel

EDIT: I should've added that the no-dash model 60 began 1965; if yours has the diamond wood grips it is a pre '68 as the diamonds were discontinued then (diamond grips fetch +/- $100!)

[fun_and_gun]

Barbarosa - Alright so the number on the bottom of the butt is "ACT75xx". Is the "rebound spring" the one that drives the hammer or is it a different one? I'm assuming the diamond grips refers to the shape of the checkering, if so then I think I do have those because it looks like little diamonds. Thanks!

[Barbarosa]

There are two springs to change - the rebound spring and the mainspring. Basically the rebound spring controls the trigger and the mainspring controls the hammer but you should change both to be on the safe side. The AC prefix puts it somewhere between 1981 - 86. The little shaped checkering is different than diamond grips. Your gun is too new to have them anyway. See the diamonds around the screw holes.

[M1NM]

Red Beard beat me to the Diamond grip

The pinned barrels were phased out around 1982

But here is the -# changes to the 60
60 - introduced in 1965
60-1 (1972) 3 in square butt limited production
60-2 (1987) DAO NYPD?
60-3 (1988) New yoke retention system
60-4 (1990) 3 in target sights full underlug barrel
60-5 (1990) DAO for NYPD with new yoke retention
60-6 (1989) Ladysmith version
60-7 (1990) front sight 1/8 inch wide, new heat treatment
60-8 (1990) same as 60-7 for NYPD
60-9 (1996) change to J magnum frame
60-10 (1996) Target variation on J magnum frame
60-11 (1996) New frame design for 38 Special version only
60-12 (1996) new frame nose cut
60-13 (1996) same as 60-12 but target version
60-14 (2001) Ladysmith with internal lock (One 60-14 had 2.125 barrel & was for .357 Magnum, pinched sights)
60-15 (2001) internal lock on 357 mag target version
60-16 (2001) internal lock on 38 Special 2 in
60-17 (2001) internal lock on 38 Special 3 inch target
60-18 (2005) internal lock 357 Mag 5 inch target 2 pc barrel

[dfletcher]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a used Smith and Wesson Model 60. I was hoping I could get some help identifying it, hopefully the year made since I need to purchase a few things for it but those things usually list some kind of range of j-frame they will fit on. Primary thing I am looking to buy is a new hammer spring, as I took it to the range for the first time yesterday and had one light primer strike that failed to ignite the primer when doing double action shooting. Strange enough I could not find any other primers that looked like they were light, but I figure it's probably at least two decades old I might as well replace that spring anyways.

Information I know:
It's a model 60 and doesn't have a dash after the "mod. 60" on the frame by the cylinder.
It's a round handle.
It firing pin is on the hammer.
I don't see a pin anywhere near where the barrel goes into the frame.
There isn't an internal lock.

There are several other numbers and such stamped around the firearm, but I don't know which ones would be helpful for identifying. Any help would be much appreciated!

The "diamond" refers a large diamond in the center of the grip as seen in these grips:

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=Awr9KR2jUvZaHHUAK19XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE0dDd1MWRoBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjQ4NTNfMQRzZWMDcGl2cw--?p=smith+%26+wesson+diamond+grips&fr2=piv-web&fr=yset_ff_syc_hp

They were dscontinued in about 1968. The pinned barrel was eliminated in 1982 so I'd expect your gun was made later. I don't have my book handy but the serial number is found on the butt and the lettering prefix is in line with J frames of a later than 1982 date.

The rebound spring is the one that drives the trigger forward into firing position. It's action should be strong and positive.

It's common for folks to replace the mainspring with a lighter spring, or clip a few coils for a lighter pull. This can be a problem on the 60 as the smaller gun is less forgiving than larger Smiths which use a hammer with more mass and longer drop.

Along with the lighter mainspring, a softer trigger return spring can be used for an easier trigger pull. But the trigger rebound spring & mainspring are interdependent. The trigger rebound spring must be strong enough to overcome the mainspring pressure when the hammer is in the fully forward position. There's a cam on the trigger rebound that forces the hammer back up as the trigger returns. Too light and the trigger balks.

The first step would be a good cleaning. All sorts of stuff can get stuck where the hammer meets the frame. Also, under the extractor star on the cylinder too. Clean the heck out of it and most likely it will work fine. If it doesn't a heavier mainspring costs about $7.00 and is easy to install. You shoudn't have to disassemble the gun to do it.

[fun_and_gun]

Thanks everyone, got exactly what I needed with the approx. year. I see now about the larger diamond, which I definitely do not have.

I'll be giving it a good cleaning, but seeing as this will be a defensive arm for me I am really leaning on just replacing the two springs for maximum reliability. The ammo I was using when the light primer strike happened was fiocchi fmj, this wouldn't be a known issue with that ammo would it? Finally, the Wilson Combat Custom-Tune Spring Kit linked above lists the springs as "reduced power", is there instead a kit that just has factory springs in it?

[-hanko]

The Model 60 no dash began production in 1965, the M60-1 was introduced in 1972...possibility she's c&r. There may be an SN on the butt underneath the grips.

[Fishslayer]

Barbarosa - Alright so the number on the bottom of the butt is "ACT75xx".

ACT puts it around '83. S&W didn't give the pinned barrel elimination an engineering change number. These are both no dash M60s. Note one pinned, one not.

[dfletcher]

A bit of a mystery - OP states there's no "dash 1" on the frame yoke, but the lack of pinned barrel and serial number puts it post '82 . The dash 1 came out in 1972. Checking my pinned barrel Model 60, serial #J2714XX puts it at 1975,and it has no dash. I know there are all sorts of oddities with Smiths, but hanging on to a pre-72 frame for 3 to 10 years is a stretch.

[Denver Dick]

Red Beard beat me to the Diamond grip

The pinned barrels were phased out around 1982

But here is the -# changes to the 60
60 - introduced in 1965
60-1 (1972) 3 in square butt limited production
60-2 (1987) DAO NYPD?
60-3 (1988) New yoke retention system
60-4 (1990) 3 in target sights full underlug barrel
60-5 (1990) DAO for NYPD with new yoke retention
60-6 (1989) Ladysmith version
60-7 (1990) front sight 1/8 inch wide, new heat treatment
60-8 (1990) same as 60-7 for NYPD
60-9 (1996) change to J magnum frame
60-10 (1996) Target variation on J magnum frame
60-11 (1996) New frame design for 38 Special version only
60-12 (1996) new frame nose cut
60-13 (1996) same as 60-12 but target version
60-14 (2001) Ladysmith with internal lock (One 60-14 had 2.125 barrel & was for .357 Magnum, pinched sights)
60-15 (2001) internal lock on 357 mag target version
60-16 (2001) internal lock on 38 Special 2 in
60-17 (2001) internal lock on 38 Special 3 inch target
60-18 (2005) internal lock 357 Mag 5 inch target 2 pc barrel

Yep, 60-2 NYPD. Here's my "NY-1"

[Barbarosa]

A bit of a mystery - OP states there's no "dash 1" on the frame yoke, but the lack of pinned barrel and serial number puts it post '82 . The dash 1 came out in 1972. Checking my pinned barrel Model 60, serial #J2714XX puts it at 1975,and it has no dash. I know there are all sorts of oddities with Smiths, but hanging on to a pre-72 frame for 3 to 10 years is a stretch.

The model 60 (also it's counterpart M-36) were oddities in that when new dash numbers came out they continued making earlier versions along with the new ones. I believe the no dash continued to be made up until 1988.

[BOBGBA]

Can anyone tell me when s/n R2667xx was made?

[L-2]

for Post 13,
YEARS, s/n Range
1979-1980 R220001-R280000

Supica, Jim,Nahas, Richard. Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson) (Kindle Locations 16923-16924). F+W Media. Kindle Edition.

[SVT-40]

Is the strain screw all the way screwed in? Often guys would loosen the strain screw to get a lighter trigger feel.