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  #1  
Old 04-21-2021, 4:17 PM
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armenjs802 armenjs802 is offline
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Arrow Help scope base 6-48 thread bolt

It was time for an upgrade to picatinny base mount, and the far left bolt turns but doesn't come back up. The other two are ok, I took them out. The new base has same thread 6-48. Savage 10FP 308. Any ideas what I should do. Thanks for your advice.

Armen.





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  #2  
Old 04-21-2021, 5:52 PM
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Just so I understand correctly:
The bolt TURNS, but does not unscrew?

Remove all the other screws, start turning the bolt and pull upwards on the scope base.
If the screw head is broken off, it won't be holding the base down and the base should just lift off.
If the screw is NOT turning, then either try harder or bring it to me and I can drill out the head and then remove the screw.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2021, 6:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Just so I understand correctly:
The bolt TURNS, but does not unscrew?
Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!
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Old 04-21-2021, 8:33 PM
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Get the screw out first.
Screw is usually softer than the receiver.
Might have to run a tap into the hole. If you get lucky. It will save the threads.
If not. Make appt with Randall.
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Old 04-21-2021, 9:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenjs802 View Post
Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!
If the screw spins in place in the reciever, it's probably because the threads were stripped out of the reciever and the screw is just held in there by the loctite.
Or the screw head actually broke off the screw and the loctite is holding the screw head into the scope base.
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2021, 9:46 PM
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Time to upgrade to 8-40 screws...
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2021, 11:18 PM
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And stop using red loc-tite. It’s a scope base screw blue is all you need. You’re not trying to secure head bolts on your V8.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2021, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenjs802 View Post
Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!
There is absofreak'nlutely no reason to trash the base. DO NOT wedge a screwdriver or minibar between the base and receiver. It's just a little 6-48 screw. It won't take a lot of upward force as the screw turns. A properly adjusted pair of vice grips and a piece of leather as padding, will more than suffice. And a firm hand grip while turning screw will likely work.

"Hateca" has a valid point regarding the RED LocTite.

But don't use the BLUE. WHICH IS MADE TO BE REMOVABLE WITH LARGER SCREWS AND BOLTS. Go with the PURPLE, which is engineered to be removable on SMALL SCREWS.

https://www.rshughes.com/p/Loctite-2...QaAvz-EALw_wcB
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  #9  
Old 04-22-2021, 3:42 AM
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8-40's for the win
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2021, 6:03 AM
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Luckily I was able to take the bolt out of the base in one piece. Most likely bottom threats are damaged. I was tired and left it alone until I can find maybe a correct tap size to clean the threads. I remembered this job was done 18 years ago Gunworks in Glendale, Phil and reason was I messed up over torqueing the bolt ~40inlb and may have striped along the way. I don't know , Apparently was good for all the years, You think with three bolts hold is good enuf and loctite the other one in place??

I have other concerns about the rings I got from Leopold for PA scope 6 30 56 34mm tube But this can wait. Let me get the mount finished.
Leopold told me to get extra high rings!


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Old 04-22-2021, 7:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacrat View Post
But don't use the BLUE. WHICH IS MADE TO BE REMOVABLE WITH LARGER SCREWS AND BOLTS.
Go with the PURPLE, which is engineered to be removable on SMALL SCREWS.
There are different viscosity levels made of each strength level (grade/color).

You can get red or blue grades for several different ranges of screw sizes.
The only difference among the grades of a specific type is how thick it is.
I specifically buy the thicker grades because they stay put better than the thinner grades.
The thin grades will not fill in the gaps between threads on larger bolts but the thick grades will flow into the smaller gaps in smaller threads just fine.
The time a very thin grade is helpful is if you are using the wicking type that you put on the threads after the fastener is already installed and it runs down around the threads after the fact.

Purple is not actually a threadlocker.
Purple is intended to hold a screw ADJUSTMENT.
Like when you have a threaded knob that you want to be able to set to a position but you don't want it to move on it's own from vibration.
That's where you use purple.

Blue is medium strength (tool removable) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.
Red is high strength (heat and tool required to remove) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Old 04-22-2021, 7:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenjs802 View Post
Luckily I was able to take the bolt out of the base in one piece. Most likely bottom threats are damaged. I was tired and left it alone until I can find maybe a correct tap size to clean the threads. I remembered this job was done 18 years ago Gunworks in Glendale, Phil and reason was I messed up over torqueing the bolt ~40inlb and may have striped along the way. I don't know , Apparently was good for all the years, You think with three bolts hold is good enuf and loctite the other one in place??


That barrel should be removed and then the hole chased with a tap.
It looks like the screw stripped out which means there are some of the stripped threads sitting in the bottom threads of the reciever.

There also looks to be damage to the barrel threads because the screw was too long and actually bottomed out on the barrel threads.
The best fix is to take it apart and repair all the threads and then put it back together with the correct length screw which will NOT bottom out on the barrel.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Old 04-22-2021, 7:41 AM
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OP

A quick thank you for posting up all the pics and what happened... I learn something new all the time from threads like this.....

Randall- I was wondering why the tip of the screw was smaller. Your explanation makes sense
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Old 04-23-2021, 1:37 AM
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Quote:
Purple is not actually a threadlocker.
Purple is intended to hold a screw ADJUSTMENT.
Like when you have a threaded knob that you want to be able to set to a position but you don't want it to move on it's own from vibration.
That's where you use purple.

Blue is medium strength (tool removable) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.
Red is high strength (heat and tool required to remove) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.


Holding screw adjustment is just one listed use. And BTW Henkel calls it a threadlocker.

https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content...l/MRO_TL_Guide

Quote:
LOCTITE® 222™...........PURPLE IS RECOMMENDED FOR BOLDED PURPOSES FOR SCREWS UP TO 1/4" all caps is my notation.

Threadlocker –
Low Strength
Recommended for low
strength threadlocking
of adjustment screws,
countersunk head screws and
set screws; on collars, pulleys,
tool holders and controllers.
Also for low-strength metals,
such as aluminum or brass.

Also available in LOCTITE®
222MS™ version which carries
Mil-Spec (S-46163A)
Type II, Grade M. NSF P1.
Whereas BLUE serves the same purposes for bolts from 1/4" to 3/4".

Quote:
LOCTITE® 243™ ........... BLUE
Threadlocker –
Medium Strength/
Primerless
Versatile, medium strength
liquid threadlocker. Reliably
locks and seals metal
fasteners up to ¾" (19 mm).
Engineered to cure consistently
on a variety of metals, despite
minor surface contaminants.
Works on steel, stainless steel
and most plated fasteners.
Tolerates thread lubrication,
anti-corrosion and protection
fluids. Rated for 360°F
(180°C).
Both products are clearly labeled on packaging for the intended diameters they are engineered for.
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Old 04-23-2021, 4:55 AM
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Clean the hole up with a properly ground bottoming tap and replace screw. Trim new screw to proper length. If the hole is trashed (it doesn't look it from the picture) run it oversize to .146-48 and fit an oversize screw.
Clean, lightly oiled threads in this application do not need locking goo.
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Old 04-23-2021, 6:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
Clean the hole up with a properly ground bottoming tap and replace screw. Trim new screw to proper length. If the hole is trashed (it doesn't look it from the picture) run it oversize to .146-48 and fit an oversize screw.
Clean, lightly oiled threads in this application do not need locking goo.
Thanks! good point brother. It might have been the barrel thread down there that buggered up the end of that original screw.
Looks like it was tapped before the barrel was installed, and those look like the barrel threads at the bottom of the hole. Provided I have a few good threads at the top (seems like I do), then I think just need to shorten the screw by file.
Busy with camera!!




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Old 04-23-2021, 6:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermosabeach View Post
OP

A quick thank you for posting up all the pics and what happened... I learn something new all the time from threads like this.....

Randall- I was wondering why the tip of the screw was smaller. Your explanation makes sense
Thanks for your interest! this may go to OT for me at least and I be happy to bring you guys with me. Hope it helps the next man. More updates by weekend, I am working today. A long class for all of us!
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Old 04-23-2021, 9:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacrat View Post
Both products are clearly labeled on packaging for the intended diameters they are engineered for.
Because you are comparing specific part numbers, not colors.
There are a bunch of different part numbers within each color.
Different viscosities for different fastener sizes.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available.
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Old 04-24-2021, 1:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Because you are comparing specific part numbers, not colors.
There are a bunch of different part numbers within each color.
Different viscosities for different fastener sizes.
I was not comparing any "part #s" The quotes came from the Henkel-LocTite link. And they are color coded.

First quote labeled PURPLE. Second quote labeled BLUE.

Click the link, quotes were from pg 8, full product line application is on pg10.

The ONLY low strength BLUE recommended for fasteners UNDER 1/4". Is the "WICKING GRADE".
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Old 04-24-2021, 1:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
Clean the hole up with a properly ground bottoming tap and replace screw. Trim new screw to proper length. If the hole is trashed (it doesn't look it from the picture) run it oversize to .146-48 and fit an oversize screw.
Clean, lightly oiled threads in this application do not need locking goo.
After seeing your latest clear closeup pics of the hole. I agree with "old-dog4570". Bottom tap and a proper length screw and you are gonna be fine. With the caveat, that I'm more anal retentive and would use Purple Goo. Even after 25 yrs of not using it, problem free. I've had it for the last 25 yrs, so I use it.

Then again, I even epoxy my bases to the receiver.
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Old 04-24-2021, 5:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacrat View Post
I've had it for the last 25 yrs, so I use it.

Then again, I even epoxy my bases to the receiver.

Love it. I ordered the tap, and today the scope is arriving. I may just do trial to see how the scope clearance looks like?

Last edited by armenjs802; 04-24-2021 at 5:47 AM..
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