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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#121
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Only paint....impervious to solvents
Last edited by monorailboy; 09-07-2013 at 7:09 AM.. |
#123
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Wow.
Thank you very much for this idea. I just finished my XD9 and XD40. I used Reflex Silver touch up paint from a Vw I used to have and it worked great. Even had the clear coat touch up to protect and seal it. |
#124
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Very informative thread.
Thank you for sharing. |
#126
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The problem with paint sticks, crayons, acrylic paint, and the like is they will all come off when they come in contact with cleaning solvents.
I find it almost impossible to thoroughly clean my gun without somehow getting cleaning solvent on my painted areas I don't want to come off, and I had to keep touching them up. I went to hobby shops and craft stores and asked where I could get paint that wouldn't come off with solvent, and after I got the puzzled looks out of the way they finally directed me to a solution of the most durable color paint around. For a true "permanent" finish, you need to use automotive paint, and by automotive I mean the paint they use to paint your car. It can take some work to get some, but I found by going to a body shop where they paint cars they had the paint I needed. By applying a clear coat on top of that paint, it really helps ensure that your paint won't come off. It can be sort of shiny,but no shinier than a normal acrylic paint. There are epoxy paints that may be even more durable, but they really aren't suited for this application. Car paint is the best IMO. |
#127
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Method #2 is much easier with a Whiteout pen.
__________________
Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850) |
#128
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Has anyone had any luck doing this to raw aluminum?
I need to engrave some polished parts and black letter fill them. Other that. The bare aluminum in the engraving, there is no anodize, primer, paint, etc for this to stick to. I need a permanent marking method for these parts. None firearm related but very similar process. |
#129
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Finished up the parts last week. Engraved the parts .005" deep with a .010" diameter ball endmill. Ended up using a fine Sharpie paint pen. Cleaned the parts really well then filled the engraving. Let it dry overnight then lapped the parts on a granite plate with worn 600 paper. Very happy with the results.
These were a limited run for a collaboration with G-Shock Watches. |
#130
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Quickest way I removed china pen from receiver since I wanted to go back to the "Black Rifle" look:
Old tooth brush dipped in some Hoppes No.9 Scrubbed it up, and wiped clean with rem oil patch! Literally took but 2 minutes maybe! After trying for 30 relentless minutes with a thumb tac which was still leaving residue I thought of this! Just a heads up for anyone who gets tired of it |
#131
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What I wound up using was Testors Enamel paint that you can pickup at any hobby store.
I painted the grooves, then while still wet, wiped down with a rag with some 70% alcohol to get the excess paint off. After that, 10 minutes in front of a space heater to dry up the paint and then (carefully) wiped down the metal with some Hoppes on a rag. This technique worked really well to keep the paint in the markings and they came out VERY well. Will post pics later. |
#132
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Quote:
Here are a few pics of some of mine that have been done.. Before pics of an AR-15 lower and some after coloring pics...
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Jack of all trades, master of few. Latest endeavor is building guns.. dang this is fun!! Lifetime NRA Member Avid archer and firearm enthusiast |
#134
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I just recently used oil pastels on my rifles with a coating of clp afterwards- it worked out pretty nicely- like im 95% satisfied with the results, and the effort was pretty minimal. I have a few spots where the color is "shallow" or "thin", but they are only noticed by the most scrutinizing eye. From grainy parts of the pastel, I guess. But overall, looks great. would post pics, but im ****ing lazy.
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#135
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I know this is an old thread, but I've been wanting to do this for about 2yrs and have finally gotten around to doing it. I saw what sandeggo did with the CalGuns logo and loved it. It's really what made me get a CG lower
I used Testors enamel paint. Used a 20/0 brush from Hobby Town (finest they had). I did the star and words first by globing it on from a vid. The bear and grass I knew I had to be careful with so they didn't run into each other, so used just the tip of the brush to control the paint better. Came out pretty good. I used this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkSxSGw2FOo I was originally going to use some silicone to create a barrier between the brown and green, but after a small test spot on the other side of the receiver (I should've done it at the grip mount which would've been covered up), I found it wouldn't work and left a small spot after drying for about 10 mins. However, non-acetone took it off enough and the very faint spot should disappear with use. I just was very careful where the feet and grass touched The green, through wiping, ran a bit into the white lettering, so redid the lettering. I would suggest doing dark colors first and work your way to lighter colors if you're doing any multi coloring that are close to each other I wish the paint was smoother, but not quite sure how to smooth it out without touching up, but you really don't notice it if you're more than 2ft away anyway I plan on doing another CG lower with a diff color scheme. When JD is back in stock, I'll post up that one If anyone in the IE wants some painting done, I'm more than happy to help
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