Best way to remove stripped head hex screw in handguard?

[AregularGuy]

File this under "DOH!". It's been a few years since I put an upper together. Yesterday I was finishing off my new .308 build. I was completing the upper, installed the handguard and blue loctited the little screws that secure it to the barrel nut at 35in/lbs. These screws use a hex bit to tighten/loosen. But they use a tiny bit, not sure what size without looking. Well, after securing the handguard I realized I still needed to install the muzzle device, Doh!

I have a barrel vise block so I proceeded to try and remove the handguard since there wasn't enough barrel showing to use the block. One of those tiny hex holes stripped out while trying to remove the screw. It didn't loosen the bolt at all but completely rounded the tiny hole. The brake I'm installing secures with a crush washer and only needed to be turned 180 degrees to time it. No, I did not have a jam nut. I took a chance and used a reaction rod and got the brake timed.

It's not really necessary right now, but my OCD keeps me thinking about replacing that screw/bolt. If I ever decide to take that handgourd off what would be the best way to remove without going nuclear? I'm thing dremel a notch and use a large screw driver? But also wanting to avoid scuffing up the handguard. I can't be the only one this happened to. Why in TF do they use such a tiny hex hole?

[Oldmandan]

Screw extractor

If it doesn’t work, then drill a small hole and try the screw extractor again

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by Oldmandan

Screw extractor

If it doesn’t work, then drill a small hole and try the screw extractor again

Thanks! Didn't know there was such a product.

[theLBC]

ez out

[Trakker]

What size hex? You try a torx bit. You’d sacrifice it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[toiletfighter]

Originally Posted by AregularGuy

Thanks! Didn't know there was such a product.

Buy a quality extractor kit and toss it in the tool box. You may only need it once in a blue moon, but it’s worth it.

[CoopsDad]

As Trakker said above, a small Torx bit, slightly larger than the hole, tapped in with a small hammer. Use a soldering iron or small butane torch (like the lighters used by tweakers; available at your local Dollar General for about $4) to heat up the bit and screw to soften the locktite, then use a bit driver to try to back it out.

[WOODY2]

Heat, then take your chances, no heavy hands.

[AregularGuy]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to see about getting another bolt from the manufacturer before pulling this one out. The bit size is 3/32. So easy to round out the hole! Got some removal tools coming.


ETA: good tip about the torx bit. May try that first.

[Munny$hot]

SnapOn screw extractors are the best. You can buy them individually or as a set

[MarikinaMan]

Memo to self, 35 inch/lbs is way too much. That exceeds most scope rings with beefy bolts.

Did it come with instructions? I think my handguards required much less than 25. Probably below 20.

Youve gotten good advice above already, good luck!

[SkyHawk]

Originally Posted by Munny$hot

SnapOn screw extractors are the best. You can buy them individually or as a set

I doubt SnapOn makes one for such a small screw. Also they are usually external extractors and if this screw is recessed now - you can't get an external extractor on it.

A pic would help OP to see exactly what the setup is. But barring that, I am also in the camp of heat with soldering iron to loosen the loctite, then tap in a torx bit and back it out.

[Mr.Caketown]

1) insert the bit thats the most snug
2) apply jb weld to screw/bit
3)wait
4)back out the screw
5) Prosper

[MarikinaMan]

Originally Posted by Mr.Caketown

1) insert the bit thats the most snug
2) apply jb weld to screw/bit
3)wait
4)back out the screw
5) Prosper

If you do the above, use a heat blanket or wait a few days.

Cold weather is a beotch when it comes to curing epoxy.

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by MarikinaMan

Memo to self, 35 inch/lbs is way too much. That exceeds most scope rings with beefy bolts.

Did it come with instructions? I think my handguards required much less than 25. Probably below 20.

Youve gotten good advice above already, good luck!

That was thespecified torque in the instructions. Likely too much for such a small bit hole.

ETA, the barrel nutspec was 65 ft•lbs, figured I'd add that in given the recent discussion in the other thread.

Originally Posted by SkyHawk

I doubt SnapOn makes one for such a small screw. Also they are usually external extractors and if this screw is recessed now - you can't get an external extractor on it.

A pic would help OP to see exactly what the setup is. But barring that, I am also in the camp of heat with soldering iron to loosen the loctite, then tap in a torx bit and back it out.

I'm at work now. It is a flat top bolt with a 2/32 hex bit hole. The bolt had is not recessed when installed. Snap on makes the small parts but they are truly expensive. I'd need some reassurance they won't snap off at that price!

[sonofeugene]

Make sure that your wrench is quality and fits well in the screw head.

[AregularGuy]

Well, bolt is out. The 2 different e-z out type tools got didn't work. I ended up using a dremel and carefully cutting a shallow slot in the head. Half of the head is recessed into the curve of the handguard. I could feel my backend pucker while cutting but afterward the handguard was unmolested. Now to fastenal for a new bolt.

[17+1]

You can always tell who hasn’t dealt with a stripped head by whoever exclaims ‘easy out’! That **** never works.

Best method is pound next size up into the head and use a cheater bar. Chapman tool has really nice hardened bits that will work even on graded bolts. Also, if you can cut a small recess in the side of the bolt and use a chisel/punch to rotate while your buddy twists that helps a lot.

[17+1]

Why even use thread lock at all? It’s kind of specialized deal.

Tighten screws by hand then paint head with a dab of paint (torque seal) to see if it’s coming loose.

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by Ishootforblood

Research Loctite #222. It's designed for smaller screws, and it's lower strength. Don't use #242 on small steel screws going into aluminum. No good can come from that.

Originally Posted by 17+1

Why even use thread lock at all? It’s kind of specialized deal.

Tighten screws by hand then paint head with a dab of paint (torque seal) to see if it’s coming loose.

Most likely do not need threadlock. It's a handguard/barrel nut bolt. I can't imagine they will work themselves loose.

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by 17+1

You can always tell who hasn’t dealt with a stripped head by whoever exclaims ‘easy out’! That **** never works.

Best method is pound next size up into the head and use a cheater bar. Chapman tool has really nice hardened bits that will work even on graded bolts. Also, if you can cut a small recess in the side of the bolt and use a chisel/punch to rotate while your buddy twists that helps a lot.

This is a tiny bolt on a rifle. I'm trying not to Butcher a brand new handguard, I don't think punch/chisel is the right formula for this one.

[hermosabeach]

Small screws - I've never had an ez out work

You might get lucky


Some will say- get a welder to weld a bolt onto the stripped out screw head

Unscrew it an discard it

[ohsmily]

Originally Posted by AregularGuy

That was thespecified torque in the instructions. Likely too much for such a small bit hole.

ETA, the barrel nutspec was 65 ft•lbs, figured I'd add that in given the recent discussion in the other thread.




I'm at work now. It is a flat top bolt with a 2/32 hex bit hole. The bolt had is not recessed when installed. Snap on makes the small parts but they are truly expensive. I'd need some reassurance they won't snap off at that price!

What brand and model handguard? If they spec 35 in/lb dry and you used loctite, then you substantially over-torqued the screws (obviously). Adding any kind of compound (fluid, grease, etc) to fastener substantially changes the dry torque value specified for that application. You learned the hard way.

[caliguy93]

Find a torx bit that almost fits extremely snug. Tap it with a hammer into the stripped bolt until it’s in there extremely tight, turn the torx and the screw will come out

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by ohsmily

What brand and model handguard? If they spec 35 in/lb dry and you used loctite, then you substantially over-torqued the screws (obviously). Adding any kind of compound (fluid, grease, etc) to fastener substantially changes the dry torque value specified for that application. You learned the hard way.

Correct, I added the blue loctite without thinking of the implications or application. I certainly did find out the hard way. Shipping for 3 bolts is $15! I only needed 1 but figured in a couple of back ups.

Originally Posted by caliguy93

Find a torx bit that almost fits extremely snug. Tap it with a hammer into the stripped bolt until it’s in there extremely tight, turn the torx and the screw will come out

I got it out after carefully cutting a notch with a dremel.

[fmunk]

Thread locking compounds are often used on firearms. Always have a heat gun or soldering pencil handy. Another thing to keep in your inventory of tools, screw extractor set like this one. Many others are available at different prices (including Harbor Freight). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ17QD9...8-f9561d758a5b

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by fmunk

Thread locking compounds are often used on firearms. Always have a heat gun or soldering pencil handy. Another thing to keep in your inventory of tools, screw extractor set like this one. Many others are available at different prices (including Harbor Freight). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ17QD9...8-f9561d758a5b

I got 3 different types of screw extractor sets. None worked. I'll keep them but not much faith in them.

[AregularGuy]

FYI, Fastenal was great, all specs for fasteners available online so comparing it to measurements made on my stripped screw was simple using a micrometer. However they charged $15 UPS shipping for $.81 worth of fasteners (3 bolts).

The new fasteners seem of higher quality. For one, they actually have some letter markings on the head. The originals had no markings. The new bolts also have a deeper hex hole, maybe twice the depth. This gave a noticeably better bite with the 3/32" hex wrench when tightening. They were an exact match and fit perfectly into the recesses in the handguard. I replaced both original bolts with these new ones.

[beanz2]

Does Fastenal offer a free ship to store option?

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by beanz2

Does Fastenal offer a free ship to store option?

I'm not sure. I didn't even think about a retail Location, didn't know they had them.

[tacticalcity]

I'm glad you got this sorted without trashing the part.

[beanz2]

Originally Posted by AregularGuy

I'm not sure. I didn't even think about a retail Location, didn't know they had them.

https://www.fastenal.com/locations

[ar15barrels]

Originally Posted by AregularGuy

I didn't even think about a retail Location, didn't know they had them.

6603 San Leandro St, Oakland, CA 94621

[Munny$hot]

Originally Posted by SkyHawk

I doubt SnapOn makes one for such a small screw. Also they are usually external extractors and if this screw is recessed now - you can't get an external extractor on it.

A pic would help OP to see exactly what the setup is. But barring that, I am also in the camp of heat with soldering iron to loosen the loctite, then tap in a torx bit and back it out.

I'm not sure how the fastener got recessed or the OP even mentioning it. From what I read he rounded out the the head.

Snap On makes extractors that you drill an appropriate hole into the head/shank insert the extractor and turn counter clockwise so it is an "Internal extractor" so the one I'm talking about does not grab onto the head of the fastener.

As another poster stated "you can tell who has done this before from the responses they posted" Unfortunately I fall into the category of multiple times club.

OP: Cutting a slot into the head is also a great option, but a small slip of a cut off wheel from a Dremel will scare the receiver, so I usually don't recommend it off the bat.

[AregularGuy]

Originally Posted by beanz2

https://www.fastenal.com/locations

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

6603 San Leandro St, Oakland, CA 94621

Doh!!!

Originally Posted by Munny$hot

I'm not sure how the fastener got recessed or the OP even mentioning it. From what I read he rounded out the the head.

Snap On makes extractors that you drill an appropriate hole into the head/shank insert the extractor and turn counter clockwise so it is an "Internal extractor" so the one I'm talking about does not grab onto the head of the fastener.

As another poster stated "you can tell who has done this before from the responses they posted" Unfortunately I fall into the category of multiple times club.

OP: Cutting a slot into the head is also a great option, but a small slip of a cut off wheel from a Dremel will scare the receiver, so I usually don't recommend it off the bat.

This is what I was dealing with, technically a "low socket cap screw". The curve of the handguard had a partial cut out for the fastener to recess into. Approximately half of the circumference of the head of the screw was obscured by this. I rounded out the hex bit hole in the center of the screw which was only 3/32" and a shallow hole. Add in my excessive torque and loctite and it was a recipe for failure. Yes, the cutting with the Dremel will make your hind end pucker as the sparks fly!

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[ar15barrels]

Originally Posted by AregularGuy

This is what I was dealing with, technically a "low socket cap screw". The curve of the handguard had a partial cut out for the fastener to recess into. Approximately half of the circumference of the head of the screw was obscured by this. I rounded out the hex bit hole in the center of the screw which was only 3/32" and a shallow hole. Add in my excessive torque and loctite and it was a recipe for failure. Yes, the cutting with the Dremel will make your hind end pucker as the sparks fly!

Attachment 1055706

Attachment 1055705

I remove stuck screws from all manner of things.
Probably once a week or every other week.
What I do is setup the item in the milling machine and locate the spindle over the centerline of the screw.
Then I center-drill the head of the screw and drill down through the head until the head comes off of the screw shank.
After you remove the head, all the tension should be off the screw so the screw will usually come out easily with a left-hand drill bit that I drill down the middle of the screw with until the drill bit bites and causes the screw to spin out of the part it was screwed into.
If there's loctite, I heat the screw and the part up right before I use the left hand drill bit.
If the screw STILL won't come out, I continue drilling out the screw shank until all that's left is the threaded spiral.
Then you can either use a pick to get the spriral out or simply re-tap the hole and the tap will push the spiral out of the way.