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  #1  
Old 01-27-2014, 6:01 PM
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Default Primer Pocket size issue... .308

I have some Hornady match brass that I am using Federal large primers with. i tried the first one and the primer is slightly too big/the primer pocket is slightly too small for my large rifle primer. Should I: 1) enlarge the primer pocket? or 2) use a small rifle primer? How would i enlarge a primer pocket...? thanks

Last edited by NYY; 01-27-2014 at 7:14 PM..
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2014, 6:39 PM
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Flash hole or primer pocket?
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Old 01-27-2014, 7:13 PM
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primer pocket*
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Old 01-27-2014, 7:16 PM
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Is this fired brass? Does it have a crimped primer pocket?
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  #5  
Old 01-27-2014, 7:18 PM
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Swagger or trim to size. Is it really so small that a SRP would fit right? Pics would help.
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Old 01-27-2014, 7:19 PM
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sound to me like it is crimped - pictures?
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Old 01-27-2014, 7:43 PM
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sounds like a crimp on the primer pocket. ream out or swage with Super Swage
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Old 01-27-2014, 8:21 PM
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Use a reamer to make it to spec.
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Old 01-27-2014, 8:33 PM
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I come across this occasionally with my once fired nickel plated Federal brass.

I usually toss 'em in the "freebies" bin, since I don't like bothering to swage.
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Old 01-27-2014, 8:36 PM
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For primer pockets, I use either the Lyman hand reamer,it comes with large and small primer pocket heads or my Dillon Stager if I am doing large quantities.

Either device will remove the crimp if there is one and uniform the pocket if there is no crimp
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Old 01-27-2014, 9:03 PM
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seems to be an "inner circle" inside the primer pocket. this is a crimp as I have discovered...? Ugh. Now this makes me worried if I swage it i might do too MUCH and not have it fit snug as if i didnt even need to swage some brass. or not swage enough. this annoys me. its Hornady Match Brass. Pretty good stuff.. dangit... 18 pieces. i dont want to swage it...




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Old 01-27-2014, 9:10 PM
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using a hand reamer scares me exactly like what this person has said about them before: "Force on the cutter must be just right or the cutter can force too deeply into the pocket, and bind.It's difficult to keep the centerline of the case aligned with the centerline of the tool. If they are misaligned, the tool will bind, and cut an elliptical pocket." only way i see it is buying a machine (something not by hand) to fix these crimps. and to me, unfortunately, doesnt seem worth it.
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2014, 9:56 PM
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That looks like a crimpped primer pocket to me. Swage them. Is reaming that I would be worried about.
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2014, 3:52 AM
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NNY, if you ream using a large drill bit or something similar, you may ruin the brass by removing too much material.

If you ream using a quality tool made specifically for reaming, you will not ruin the brass.

The Lyman tool has two sizes, LG primer and SM primer. Both tools have a center piece that bottoms out on the primer pocket, preventing the reamer portion from going too deep into the crimp ring. By controlling the depth by bottoming out, the Lyman tool doesn't ruin you brass.

Spend the extra money on a quality reaming tool or if you have the funds, get a swager. Using improvised tools such as a large drill bit us penny wise and pound foolish. Especially considering the Lyman hand tool is only a few dollars
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Old 01-28-2014, 8:17 AM
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Use your chamfer & deburring tool. Just don't chuck it into a power drill. If you do it by hand, you won't remove enough material to ruin the pocket.
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Old 01-28-2014, 8:29 AM
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Don't fret on a swager. I use the dillon one and it is fool proof. There is not a way to "over do it" that I have ever noticed once set up. Also like someone mentioned it does make the primer pocket uniform which is a plus, more consistency = more accuracy (results may vary).

I reload a crap ton of LC 5.56 and all have the crimp. When I pick up brass sometimes I do not know if it is once fired (still has crimp) or reloaded (crimp removed) as the people I shoot with normally use m193's and I do not know if it is my brass or theirs. Long run on sentence later, I swage every case on this brass.
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  #17  
Old 01-28-2014, 8:55 AM
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yeah i hear you. at this point its a decision where either i am interested enough to buy a swager, or just not even pick up crimped brass
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Old 01-28-2014, 9:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYY View Post
yeah i hear you. at this point its a decision where either i am interested enough to buy a swager, or just not even pick up crimped brass
The swaging die (ie- RCBS) is very easy to use and inexpensive. I have both styles of swagers and can't say one is better than the other...
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Old 01-28-2014, 9:46 AM
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don't waste you money buying dedicated 'primer pocket swaging' tools. Go to Home Depot and get yourself a counter sink chuck it up on a drill and spin it for half a second or till you get the crimp off or a shiny chamfer and it's done.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-2...CST1/203530165

It just chamfers the edge and doesn't change the pocket depth or diameter cuz you want the pocket tight. The chamfered edge seats primer much easier and helps you ID the processed brass next time.

'Swaged' brass can still crushes primer once in a while. My chamferred brass never crushed a primer. I chamferred, loaded and shot 10s of 1000s of brass with this method. Never an issue.
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Old 01-28-2014, 9:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huckberry668 View Post
don't waste you money buying dedicated 'primer pocket swaging' tools. Go to Home Depot and get yourself a counter sink chuck it up on a drill and spin it for half a second or till you get the crimp off or a shiny chamfer and it's done.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-2...CST1/203530165

It just chamfers the edge and doesn't change the pocket depth or diameter cuz you want the pocket tight. The chamfered edge seats primer much easier and helps you ID the processed brass next time.

'Swaged' brass can still crushes primer once in a while. My chamferred brass never crushed a primer. I chamferred, loaded and shot 10s of 1000s of brass with this method. Never an issue.
I hadn't thought of trying this. Does that bit work for both 223 and 308 brass? I had issues even after swaging where the primers would get crushed occasionally.
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  #21  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:57 AM
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I used the RCBS unit on a bunch of.45 acp mil brass, and it worked great. It just swages the outer third of the pocket, so primers still go in nice and snug.
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Old 01-28-2014, 2:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elemenope View Post
I hadn't thought of trying this. Does that bit work for both 223 and 308 brass? I had issues even after swaging where the primers would get crushed occasionally.
works with all brass
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  #23  
Old 01-28-2014, 3:03 PM
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If you get one that feels tight even after swaging, pop the primer back out, and swab the hole with a light application of moly neck sizing powdered lube, it will go right in.
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Old 01-28-2014, 3:24 PM
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I have used this to remove crimp rings and slightly chamfer the pocket on many thousands of rounds of 5.56 and 7.62 brass. Just a 45 degree countersink bit mounted in a cabinet knob. A couple of twists is all it takes.

If prepping a large quantity, I remove it from the knob and chuck it in a drill press to save time (and my fingers).

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Old 01-28-2014, 5:02 PM
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PLEASE DO NOT OVER REAM...speaking from experience. i lost about 30 good brass over reaming the crimp and causing loose pockets. I now use a dillon super swage. i use a lot of once-fired range brass since its cheap (free), readily available at my range 10 minutes from me and dang nabbit....mil brass is damn good brass
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Old 01-28-2014, 5:21 PM
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.. the benefits of hand priming..

Reminds you the Lyman tool is perfect for this, no overpenetration, no oversizing.
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Old 01-28-2014, 6:16 PM
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so with the RCBS swager kit, it wouldnt happen to fit into my single stage Lee press would it...? or do i need a damn RCBS press. hand reaming/swaging just doesnt seem right to me. this is fricken reloading. small explosions are going off for every shot. i would rather trust a machined,mechanical process to do cutting than my own free-hand wobbling and "thinking" its good "enough". swaging just seems more safe and exact.... i mean, am i the only one who also thinks this way...?

Last edited by NYY; 01-28-2014 at 6:18 PM..
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Old 01-28-2014, 6:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYY View Post
so with the RCBS swager kit, it wouldnt happen to fit into my single stage Lee press would it...? or do i need a damn RCBS press. hand reaming/swaging just doesnt seem right to me. this is fricken reloading. small explosions are going off for every shot. i would rather trust a machined,mechanical process to do cutting than my own free-hand wobbling and "thinking" its good "enough". swaging just seems more safe and exact.... i mean, am i the only one who also thinks this way...?
I have a single stage Lee press, and the RCBS swage kit did not fit in my press. The shellholder was the problem and was oversize. I returned it and with the amount of mil brass I have obtained over the years, i went with the dillon super swage.
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Old 01-28-2014, 7:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsumoba View Post
I have a single stage Lee press, and the RCBS swage kit did not fit in my press. The shellholder was the problem and was oversize. I returned it and with the amount of mil brass I have obtained over the years, i went with the dillon super swage.
dillon super swage. $100. about to buy it.

and with mil brass, you like it so much that you dont mind decreasing the powder load by whatever % it is...?
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Old 01-28-2014, 8:05 PM
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bsumoba mentioned that you can ruin brass by taking off too much metal just as I did. I've done just that before by not using the proper tool. Ruined a bunch of beautiful military 30-06 Lake City cases.

I switched over to the correct tool at only $9.99, here's the Midway link: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/682...ProductFinding

It's the Lyman and it bottoms out on the base of the primer pocket to ensure that you don't remove too much metal. I did make one modification to the tool, I removed the head from the handle and I chucked it into my cordless drill to speed things up.

It's the economical and safe way to remove primer crimps. I wouldn't use makeshift means to remove the crimps.

Eventually, I purchased the Dillon Super Swager. Really fast way to remove crimps from a lot of brass. It's a bit pricey, but it's worth it.

Either the Lyman with the head chucked in a drill or the Dillon will serve your needs quite well and it will do it safely
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Old 01-28-2014, 8:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptmn View Post
bsumoba mentioned that you can ruin brass by taking off too much metal just as I did. I've done just that before by not using the proper tool. Ruined a bunch of beautiful military 30-06 Lake City cases.

I switched over to the correct tool at only $9.99, here's the Midway link: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/682...ProductFinding

It's the Lyman and it bottoms out on the base of the primer pocket to ensure that you don't remove too much metal. I did make one modification to the tool, I removed the head from the handle and I chucked it into my cordless drill to speed things up.

It's the economical and safe way to remove primer crimps. I wouldn't use makeshift means to remove the crimps.

Eventually, I purchased the Dillon Super Swager. Really fast way to remove crimps from a lot of brass. It's a bit pricey, but it's worth it.

Either the Lyman with the head chucked in a drill or the Dillon will serve your needs quite well and it will do it safely
yea i understand you. I decided to go with the Dillon Super. Should do the job for my needs! Thank you very much again
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  #32  
Old 01-29-2014, 9:43 AM
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Below is a RCBS swager, I was very disappointed because it pushed brass into the primer pocket and did not displace the brass outward swaging the brass. (POS)



I didn't have the money for the Dillon unit so I bought the reamer for the RCBS prep station below. It is tapered and will not touch the primer pocket walls, if inserted in a commercial Remington case it removes "NO" brass.



Still being a cheap bastard I bought the Hornady case prep trio, to speed things up the primer pocket was first hit with the deburring tool and then the RCBS primer pocket reamer. The actual Lyman primer pocket reamer was just used as a GO/NO-GO gauge to insure the primer pocket had the crimp removed.



Bottom line, don't be a cheap bastard and buy the Dillon swager and your fingers won't be so sore from holding all that brass you can't even pick your own nose.

I had three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 brass to prep the primer pockets on. So please buy the Dillon swager and not cry when picking your own nose with abused and crippled fingers.

Below, just one five gallon bucket of .223/5.56 brass with crimped primers.



I have two more buckets to go and they are waiting for my Dillon swager.



Anti-gun, non-reloaders don't have this problem. (remember don't be cheap and "picky")

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Old 01-29-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYY View Post
yeah i hear you. at this point its a decision where either i am interested enough to buy a swager, or just not even pick up crimped brass
Buy a counter sink bit like was suggested by a few people here. The sooner you do and find out how easy it is to make crimped brass a non-issue, the less you'll want to kick yourself for leaving all that good boxer primed brass at the range just because it had crimped primers.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:13 AM
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I don't understand why some of you think it's impossible to ream a crimp by hand and not f*ck it up. You want to remove the displaced metal, and nothing more. That's a couple thousandth's of inch, NOT hogging out an eighth inch...

The counter sink works fast, you don't have to sort the brass into head stamp groups so the swager will work. Pick it up, touch it to the counter sink in the cordless drill for a couple of revs, and it's done.

You're not weakening the brass, the crimp is as far away from the pressure as is possible. Remove just the crimp and you're not changing the primer pocket; the crimp was above the primer.

There was another thread about reaming vs. swaging, one of the swaging peeps complained he didn't have a clue as to what needed cutting; so he had to buy the $130 tool. Just look at the brass, see the little ring of metal that is in the way; remove it. Easy...
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:28 AM
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I just stick the Hornady reamer bit into my cordless drill and give it a real quick spin. I've had some where too little material was removed but not the other way.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klewan View Post
I don't understand why some of you think it's impossible to ream a crimp by hand and not f*ck it up. You want to remove the displaced metal, and nothing more. That's a couple thousandth's of inch, NOT hogging out an eighth inch...
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:10 AM
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Dillon super swager is the way to go.
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  #38  
Old 01-29-2014, 3:24 PM
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Here's a quasi powered option

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...4550452715.jpg
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Old 01-29-2014, 8:37 PM
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I ordered this exact setup yesterday. I have the RCBS pocket swager and it freakin sucks. I can never get a consistent swage. I tried the countersink bit route and it works, but is slow. So trying the Hornady case prep trio plus the RCBS crimp remover bit.

Last edited by elemenope; 01-29-2014 at 8:53 PM..
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elemenope View Post
I can never get a consistent swage. I tried the countersink bit route and it works, but is slow.
How is picking up a piece of brass, touching it to the counter sink for a moment and throwing it into the "done" pile, slower than putting the brass in the shell holder, pull the handle, return handle, remove brass from shell holder and throw onto "done" pile?

Every once in a while somebody admits you really need to sort by headstamps to get a consistent swage. Even the Dillion instructions tell you to do that. I've checked, so don't tell me "no, you don't have to".
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