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Survival and Preparations Long and short term survival and 'prepping'.

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  #1  
Old 06-30-2013, 5:00 PM
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Default Design Your Perfect Knife

Lets say you you could only carry one fixed blade knife with you in the bush or a a bug out situation. What features would it have? Your other knife is a multi-tool.

I am going to have a custom knife made and am looking for features to consider.

What I have so far is:

7" blade
1/4" thick
Drop point profile with sharpened top swage
1/2 - 3/8" extended belly
Full tang
Carbide tipped rear bolster
Thumb rise with serious jimping
full choil - to allow index finger in it for fine control and for ferro rod surface
DLC blade coating (accept on the choil for ferro rod)
Leather sheath with pocket and loop for fire rod
Lanyard hole
Balanced

Would like thoughts on:

Steel
Handle - material (bone, wood, leather, rubber, metal, phenolic, carbon fiber, micarta, G10, or zytel)
Handle - shape (D-shaped, finger grooves, plain Jane)
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Last edited by TheChief; 06-30-2013 at 5:11 PM..
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Old 06-30-2013, 7:21 PM
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Pistol grip, fore grip, standard cap mag. NOW that's a KNIFE... No seriously now a blade design you like and good steal a must ! And good features in the sheath...

Last edited by Dano3467; 06-30-2013 at 7:23 PM..
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2013, 7:28 PM
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Check out Phil Wilson knives...Mt Ranch Ca.
Super sharp super hard blades. I have seven of them. I threw away all the foo foo chefs blades and use one in the kitchen to cut everything . I can fillet 100 any fish with one without sharpening. Although sharpening one is a skill. They are like if it slips out of your hand ...jump away...it will slice your toes off.
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Old 06-30-2013, 7:56 PM
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I have a TOPS Anaconda 7b and really love this knife. Very rugged and well built knife. Might even fit what your looking for. The only issue I have with them is their sheaths, not a fan of nylon sheaths.

Not a fan of leather sheaths either. Nylon and Leather sheaths trap water and allow dirt and other grim to imbed into them. This trapped moisture can and will rust out your blade. The grim can act like sand paper and remove the finish, prematurely exposing bare metal.

I know that leather can be cured and treated to help prevent the trapping of moisture, but this is a continual maintence issue because over time the curing wears out from exposure and repeated use. As this is a survival and preparations section I would go with a kydex sheath for long term near maintence free use.
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Old 06-30-2013, 9:50 PM
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6 " Carbon Steel 1/4 inch thick with Scandi Grind, Micarta handles , Full tang, Lanyard hole, useful jimping (but not overly agressive) and coated to handle the elements. I also expect a nice Kydex Sheath.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laabstract View Post
6 " Carbon Steel 1/4 inch thick with Scandi Grind, Micarta handles , Full tang, Lanyard hole, useful jimping (but not overly agressive) and coated to handle the elements. I also expect a nice Kydex Sheath.
And the answer is ESEE 6.
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2013, 8:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badreligion View Post
I have a TOPS Anaconda 7b and really love this knife. Very rugged and well built knife. Might even fit what your looking for. The only issue I have with them is their sheaths, not a fan of nylon sheaths.

Not a fan of leather sheaths either. Nylon and Leather sheaths trap water and allow dirt and other grim to imbed into them. This trapped moisture can and will rust out your blade. The grim can act like sand paper and remove the finish, prematurely exposing bare metal.

I know that leather can be cured and treated to help prevent the trapping of moisture, but this is a continual maintence issue because over time the curing wears out from exposure and repeated use. As this is a survival and preparations section I would go with a kydex sheath for long term near maintence free use.
I heard that a leather sheath will absorb whatever oil you are using on your knife and therefore will help prevent your blade from rusting because it will help keep your blade lubed. Any truth to that? Or just another internet myth?
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:24 PM
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I really like Micarta and G10 for handle scales. With the texture left a little rough, both materials offer good traction in the hand even when wet. If you plan on doing a lot of chopping though, a rubberized material would be a better choice as it will absorb some of the shock. I carry a set of mechanix gloves with me whenever I intend to use one of my G10 or Micarta handled knives for chopping for long periods.

For a larger fixed blade knife, I really like the higher carbon steels. Plain 1095 high carbon is always a good pick. Hard to beat for ease of sharpening and edge retention, although it does rust pretty quickly if not maintained. D2 tool steel makes for a great fixed blade, but the increased edge retention comes at the cost of being pretty difficult to sharpen.

For blade grind, I prefer a nice flat ground blade over the more common hollow ground blades. A flat ground blade seems to slice through heavier material like leather or cardboard a lot easier than a comprable hollow ground blade will. Saber ground is also pretty decent, basically a modified version of a flat ground blade that leaves a bit more material out near the tip.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumo99 View Post
I heard that a leather sheath will absorb whatever oil you are using on your knife and therefore will help prevent your blade from rusting because it will help keep your blade lubed. Any truth to that? Or just another internet myth?
Truth. I run frog lube in my leather sheaths. The oil repels the water short of submersion. Also keeps the leather supple.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMJBT View Post
I really like Micarta and G10 for handle scales. With the texture left a little rough, both materials offer good traction in the hand even when wet. If you plan on doing a lot of chopping though, a rubberized material would be a better choice as it will absorb some of the shock. I carry a set of mechanix gloves with me whenever I intend to use one of my G10 or Micarta handled knives for chopping for long periods.

For a larger fixed blade knife, I really like the higher carbon steels. Plain 1095 high carbon is always a good pick. Hard to beat for ease of sharpening and edge retention, although it does rust pretty quickly if not maintained. D2 tool steel makes for a great fixed blade, but the increased edge retention comes at the cost of being pretty difficult to sharpen.

For blade grind, I prefer a nice flat ground blade over the more common hollow ground blades. A flat ground blade seems to slice through heavier material like leather or cardboard a lot easier than a comprable hollow ground blade will. Saber ground is also pretty decent, basically a modified version of a flat ground blade that leaves a bit more material out near the tip.
Thanks for the response. Good info!
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Old 07-01-2013, 2:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChief View Post
Lets say you you could only carry one fixed blade knife with you in the bush or a a bug out situation. What features would it have? Your other knife is a multi-tool.

I am going to have a custom knife made and am looking for features to consider.

What I have so far is:

7" blade
1/4" thick
Drop point profile with sharpened top swage
1/2 - 3/8" extended belly
Full tang
Carbide tipped rear bolster
Thumb rise with serious jimping
full choil - to allow index finger in it for fine control and for ferro rod surface
DLC blade coating (accept on the choil for ferro rod)
Leather sheath with pocket and loop for fire rod
Lanyard hole
Balanced

Would like thoughts on:

Steel
Handle - material (bone, wood, leather, rubber, metal, phenolic, carbon fiber, micarta, G10, or zytel)
Handle - shape (D-shaped, finger grooves, plain Jane)
I think its important to decide whether its going to be "leaving-off-the-land" tool with some combat/hunting functionality or other way around, I dont believe a well balanced option exists, it has to be weighted toward one or another ...
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  #12  
Old 07-01-2013, 5:20 PM
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Groman #3 or #4 in Carbon Steel
http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/r4s.html
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Old 07-01-2013, 5:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOGIEMAN View Post
And the answer is ESEE 6.
I had no Idea the Esee 6 is a Scandi Grind!
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Old 07-01-2013, 5:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElvenSoul View Post
Groman #3 or #4 in Carbon Steel
http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/r4s.html
For bug out sit then a good all round hunting knife with a curved blade for skinning would be the way to go - like these. Tacticool knives may look cool but tried and true hunting knives are my choice for an all around SHTF survival knife.
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Old 07-01-2013, 5:32 PM
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EKA A11 is amazing bang for the $$$$$! Designned for working with gloves in freezing cold.
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Old 07-01-2013, 6:18 PM
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Attachment 245973

USAF survival knife.


I carried one eight out of the ten years I was in the Army (until someone liked it better than I did and took it ). I beat the hell out of that knife and it held up to all the abuse a Grunt can dish out.

I did break off the origional point opening a ammo crate. After I reground a new point it was good as new

I need to hit ebay and pick up another (or two)

Last edited by 11HE9; 01-17-2016 at 6:20 AM..
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Old 07-01-2013, 6:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Mavashi View Post
I think its important to decide whether its going to be "leaving-off-the-land" tool with some combat/hunting functionality or other way around, I dont believe a well balanced option exists, it has to be weighted toward one or another ...
Why?

I see your opinion but not the reasoning behind it...
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Old 07-01-2013, 8:04 PM
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All the people I know who depend on fixed blade knives for their livelihood--general purpose tool, farming, woodcraft, etc. (i.e. Asian farmers, trekkers, and jungle dwellers)--use simple short-bladed machetes made from old axle springs. Of this type, I prefer the kukri form factor.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:46 PM
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Coldsteel trail master. Had it for years, never once failed me or let me down. Chop firewood, skin and clean fish, animals...man I love this knife. That is my pennies on the subject.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:12 AM
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Don't know if I'd say this Schrade SCHF3N Extreme Survival Knife my dream knife, but for the price it can't be beat. This is one helluva knife. I LOVE mine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Old 07-02-2013, 4:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumo99 View Post
I heard that a leather sheath will absorb whatever oil you are using on your knife and therefore will help prevent your blade from rusting because it will help keep your blade lubed. Any truth to that? Or just another internet myth?
Valid point, but as I pointed out this is a continued maintence issue with the sheath I would rather avoid in a SHTF situation. A drop or two of oil is enough to prevent rust on your knife, its gonna take more than that to oil your sheath. Then there's the issue of trapped sand and dirt grinding away at your knife every time you use it.
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Old 07-02-2013, 8:58 AM
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Don't know if I'd say this Schrade SCHF3N Extreme Survival Knife my dream knife, but for the price it can't be beat. This is one helluva knife. I LOVE mine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Schrade Extreme Survival line is hard to beat for value in a fixed blade knife. My personal favorite in that line for a hard use field knife would be the SCHF9. It's very similar to the SCHF3N, but uses a high carbon 1095 steel rather than stainless, and is saber ground instead of hollow ground. It also lacks any false edge grind along the spine of the blade, leaving more area for batoning the back of the blade through heavier wood. It also uses kraton for the handle scales instead of micarta. The handle has a pronounced ball shape near the end that allows for a decent grip at the very back of the handle when chopping, letting you swing nearly the entire length of the knife like a small hatchet.

This knife actually has a lot of the features the OP listed. It might serve as a good starting point for modifications. At around $40, I'd have no problem taking one of these to a bench grinder for some alterations.

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Old 07-02-2013, 9:26 AM
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I like the KBar knife. I'm also a fan of just a simple fixed blade Buck knife.
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Old 07-02-2013, 7:19 PM
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Leather Sheaths are generally either oiled leather or bees waxed. Like the Ancient Romans I prefer the bees wax. Easy DIY Project. Lots of YouTubes.
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Old 07-02-2013, 7:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChief View Post
Why?

I see your opinion but not the reasoning behind it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChief View Post
Why?

I see your opinion but not the reasoning behind it...
Well ...

Bug-out/bush/SHTF scenario .... say at one point you for short or long term are out of ammo, you knife becomes your secondary weapon - just based on the fact that you've mentioned 7" length, if not primary weapon. But say you will have a probability of engaging an unfriendly, what properties are they likely to have ? They might have heavy clothing on - depending on the terrain and time of the year, leather - as a form of body armor or dress code/work clothing - bikers, ranchers, etc, industrial or self made body armor. So you will need to have something that can penetrate well leather or heavy clothing in a mobile-slash-and-stub combat, or in case of a clinch or ground grappling something that is of appropriate of length and blade width to stab/slide in between armor plates. With these constraints in mind - neck, and wrists become the most optimal targets, but you need the most possible damage with limited amount of blade travel/pull against the target area and minimum force applied - you can be injured or exhausted, or just in general the weapon should be capable of delivering maximum damage without you over committing into your opponents kill zone. Just based on that as a utility tool this blade is to have not the most efficient blade geometry and likely, from what I understand the type of steel that will have that kind of sharpness is likely to chip against even medium utility use, wood, etc.
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Old 07-02-2013, 8:07 PM
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Cold Steel Trail Master. Almost 10" blade, all purpose excellent knife. Its been a loyal companion on a number of hunts and camping trips over the last 4 years.
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Old 07-03-2013, 1:16 AM
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Great knives in this thread, has anyone thought about building own knife? There are some great DIY knife kits out there
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Old 07-03-2013, 7:19 AM
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Something like this works very well
http://www.agrussell.com/product.asp...cd2=1263728125
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMJBT View Post
Schrade Extreme Survival line is hard to beat for value in a fixed blade knife. My personal favorite in that line for a hard use field knife would be the SCHF9. It's very similar to the SCHF3N, but uses a high carbon 1095 steel rather than stainless, and is saber ground instead of hollow ground. It also lacks any false edge grind along the spine of the blade, leaving more area for batoning the back of the blade through heavier wood. It also uses kraton for the handle scales instead of micarta. The handle has a pronounced ball shape near the end that allows for a decent grip at the very back of the handle when chopping, letting you swing nearly the entire length of the knife like a small hatchet.

This knife actually has a lot of the features the OP listed. It might serve as a good starting point for modifications. At around $40, I'd have no problem taking one of these to a bench grinder for some alterations.

I plan on buying tha knife sometime in the future so I can compare them side by side. but so far have no real complaints about the SCHF3N. It batons just fine.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:51 PM
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I have two...

I'm have a aluminum pole threaded to accept the Kershaw on the head and use the Kershaws heavy threaded cap on the other end...makes a great short fishing spear, walking staff, etc...
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Old 07-03-2013, 1:49 PM
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Here is what I have, great tool http://www.topsknives.com/product_in...products_id=80
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Old 07-03-2013, 5:58 PM
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I'm rather fond of the Mora bushcraft knives, though I'd prefer a full tang and a socket in the handle for bow-drill fire making.

Have you considered a scandi-ground blade profile?
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Old 07-03-2013, 9:50 PM
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Gurkhan style Kukri , 1/4" spine, tapered with hollow grind, 14" OAL, horrizontal belt sheath. Excellent hacking/chopping ability, good for stabbing, relatively easy blade maintenance, not too heavy or unweildy. Very utilitarian, and practical in combat.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sunborder View Post
I'm rather fond of the Mora bushcraft knives, though I'd prefer a full tang and a socket in the handle for bow-drill fire making.

Have you considered a scandi-ground blade profile?
Scandi ground edges can be extremely sharp, but I would hesitate to go that route with a larger blade, as sharpening across the entire blade grind would be very time consuming. A scandi edge would also leave a much larger area of uncoated/unprotected steel than othe grinds with a secondary bevel, which could lead to rust issues with high carbon steels. Note than most of the Mora knives that have a scandi ground edge are made from stainless.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Yehosha View Post
I plan on buying tha knife sometime in the future so I can compare them side by side. but so far have no real complaints about the SCHF3N. It batons just fine.
I think you'll be pretty impressed with the F9 when you get a chance to compare them. I still like my SCHF3N, but for hard use the F9 is just better designed for being used like a tool. They definitely got the heat treatment right on the 1095 steel, the edge retention on it is extremely good, but not so hard that it's brittle. I've accidently hit it edge first against bricks and rocks while trimming trees in the back yard, and the edge has never chipped or even shown any signs of rolling. I worried a bit about corrosion with the high carbon steel as well, but it doesn't seem to be an issue at all, the coating they use on the blade is nearly indestructible. Aside from saltwater environments, I pretty much neglect this knife like I would a stainless steel blade.
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  #36  
Old 07-03-2013, 11:51 PM
jyo jyo is offline
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Years ago, I went with the Fallkniven A1---6+" blade, laminated blade, full-tang, 6mm thick spine---has never let me down. Later, I also picked-up the longer A2 but have never used it! The only "problem" with Fallkniven is the price---as the USA dollar got weaker against other currencies, the price got a lot higher...
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  #37  
Old 07-04-2013, 9:39 AM
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FMJBT FMJBT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChief View Post
Lets say you you could only carry one fixed blade knife with you in the bush or a a bug out situation. What features would it have? Your other knife is a multi-tool.

I am going to have a custom knife made and am looking for features to consider.

What I have so far is:

7" blade
1/4" thick
Drop point profile with sharpened top swage
1/2 - 3/8" extended belly
Full tang
Carbide tipped rear bolster
Thumb rise with serious jimping
full choil - to allow index finger in it for fine control and for ferro rod surface
DLC blade coating (accept on the choil for ferro rod)
Leather sheath with pocket and loop for fire rod
Lanyard hole
Balanced

Would like thoughts on:

Steel
Handle - material (bone, wood, leather, rubber, metal, phenolic, carbon fiber, micarta, G10, or zytel)
Handle - shape (D-shaped, finger grooves, plain Jane)
Drew up a quick sketch based on these requirements, might have to play around with the proportions a bit as I think the blade ended up a bit short (6"-ish?). I added some holes near the base of the blade so that it could be lashed to a pole for use as a spear as well.

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  #38  
Old 07-04-2013, 10:49 AM
wes101 wes101 is offline
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If your willing to spend the top dollar on a custom made knife, take a look at the Aitor Jungle King 1. It has alot of the features your looking for and a few extras like a slingshot, first aid kit, and a signal mirror. i dont believe it is full tang but from my experience it is virtually indestructible. Just watch out for the cheap Chinese knockoffs. a real one will run you about 200-250.
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Old 07-04-2013, 8:35 PM
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TheChief TheChief is offline
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Wow...great ideas! Just need to to assimilate them

That was a great sketch up FMJBT! I have spent minutes at a time just staring at it. Reminds me a lot of the Zero Tolerance 0100 and 0301, and the TOPS Anaconda 7b.

How did you do the sketch? Initial draft in pencil, final in pen and then erase the pencil marks?

Using the sketch as a base I am thinking...
  • Reduce the swage to an inch so as to give a flat full width edge for batoning
  • Flatten out the bottom of blade closest to the choil to ease sharpening. This may cause a widening of the blade but wont know till I play with the sketches
  • Reduce the material between the choil and the handle to lesson snag issues. Also, since your are only using the choil when choking up on the blade for fine work, I am thinking the pressure is more towards the center of the blade rather than rearward.
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Old 07-04-2013, 8:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes101 View Post
If your willing to spend the top dollar on a custom made knife, take a look at the Aitor Jungle King 1. It has alot of the features your looking for and a few extras like a slingshot, first aid kit, and a signal mirror. i dont believe it is full tang but from my experience it is virtually indestructible. Just watch out for the cheap Chinese knockoffs. a real one will run you about 200-250.
Not a big fan of the tube knives even when well done. I do however, like the little stainless helper knife. Something else to think on.

Quality stainless
Gut hook
Skinner blade
bottle and can opener
Pry tip or awl
Thumb ramp with jimping
lashing holes
Internal step wrench (useful skeletonization of tool)
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Last edited by TheChief; 07-04-2013 at 8:48 PM..
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