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Survival and Preparations Long and short term survival and 'prepping'.

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  #1  
Old 01-30-2017, 10:52 PM
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Default 300 watt Zamp Solar Pure Sine inverter 75% off at Lowes

Zamp Solar 300-Watt 12 VDC Inverter Pure Sine

If the link doesn't work, just go to lowes.com and search "zamp". No more 600w or 2000w but it's still a great deal if you need one for a laptop, etc.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zamp-Solar-...er/1000079937#

Picked up two today.
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2017, 6:32 AM
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That's a heck of a deal. Amazon wants $115.00.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2017, 6:10 PM
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2017, 7:15 PM
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Thanks for posting. Check you local stores. I was able to find 1000W and 600W inverters a short drive away.
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Old 01-31-2017, 8:05 PM
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Thanks for the notice! aside from my small Anker foldable 21w solar USB charger, I have no experience with this tech... so aside from this inverter all I would need is a solar panel? I was eyeing the 1000w for only $82... I never came to terms with shelling out $1500 for a goal zero sleek looking solar system and now I may not ever need to :-)
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Old 01-31-2017, 8:24 PM
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That looks like a great deal. I had a 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter given to me, which was surplus from a vehicle taken out of service, but it died last time I went to use it and there isn't anything apparent wrong with the circuit board.

The 1000 watt should work well for small items in my toy hauler, when camping, and the price is right.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by anyracoon View Post
That's a heck of a deal. Amazon wants $115.00.
Thinking about selling my second one on eBay

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Originally Posted by sully007 View Post
Sully!

IMG_3917-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by vmonkey View Post
Thanks for posting. Check you local stores. I was able to find 1000W and 600W inverters a short drive away.
Yep! Check daily. San Jose, Dublin, Union City, Sunnyvale etc. have some bigger ones on sale as of today, through early March. It’s a crap shoot - people have caught on.

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Originally Posted by ditryin View Post
Thanks for the notice! aside from my small Anker foldable 21w solar USB charger, I have no experience with this tech... so aside from this inverter all I would need is a solar panel? I was eyeing the 1000w for only $82... I never came to terms with shelling out $1500 for a goal zero sleek looking solar system and now I may not ever need to :-)
Hard question to answer - depends on what you want to do with it. Your current solar setup won’t work, but a deep cycle battery would work for a while. We’ll be using this in our Class B RV for small stuff…but we have 200 watts of solar on the roof, or can run the motor or generator.

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That looks like a great deal. I had a 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter given to me, which was surplus from a vehicle taken out of service, but it died last time I went to use it and there isn't anything apparent wrong with the circuit board.

The 1000 watt should work well for small items in my toy hauler, when camping, and the price is right.

Thanks for the heads up.
Hell yeah!
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2017, 11:07 PM
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Curtis...Pimp'n. Nice pic.
gcvt, what plans or project do you have in mind?
I'm wanting to put some kind of portable solar camping\SHTF
set-up together for powering more than recharging AA\AAA batts.
Been looking at Zero Goal also, but I just can't part with that kind of $ for a few weekends a year,

-g
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Old 02-01-2017, 5:36 AM
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Love



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  #10  
Old 02-01-2017, 8:20 AM
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Screw it. Bought two of the 300w at this price.
Can anyone give me a short list of components that have
worked for them and what to steer clear of.. panels, battery, etc?
Starting point for home shed light set-up and a second on for
camping and off grid applications.
Thanks
-g
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Old 02-01-2017, 9:18 AM
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Does anyone have an oscilloscope and can look at how clean the waveform is? I'd like to know what the rated efficiency is also. I couldn't find any normal technical specs on their website.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:22 AM
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Efficiency ranges between 87 to 90% depending on the model. No scope, but they call out for 3% or less THD. So, the wave should be very close to generated power.
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Old 02-01-2017, 7:00 PM
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Mine shipped today...with free shipping!
-g
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Old 02-01-2017, 7:16 PM
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Stupid question, but can I use the inverter (looking at the 1000w and 2000w inverters) to clean up the power coming from my generator?

generator > inverter > household items?
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Old 02-01-2017, 8:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wilafur View Post
Stupid question, but can I use the inverter (looking at the 1000w and 2000w inverters) to clean up the power coming from my generator?

generator > inverter > household items?


You could go generator to battery charger to 12v battery to inverter.

It don't think your method would work because the inverter expects 12v in & 120v out. My little Honda 1000 has a DC out for charging batteries but don't know if you could connect to an inverter. Interesting question you have though.
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2017, 8:47 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Man WC View Post
Screw it. Bought two of the 300w at this price.
Can anyone give me a short list of components that have
worked for them and what to steer clear of.. panels, battery, etc?
Starting point for home shed light set-up and a second on for
camping and off grid applications.
Thanks
-g
get 2 renogy 100w panels, get a midnight solar mppt kid controller, get 2 6v golf cart batteries from costco. that will give you a decent minimum system. its what we ran on for 3 years before upgrading.

there are also some marine mppt charge controllers that are very nice but limited to 10amps charge. the kid can do 30amps.

the kid is nice, it has a 12v load port that supplies up to 10amps to battery chargers, dc to dc converters for running 12v items like laptops, tv,s etc.

plan B would be one renogy 100w panel one of these mppt controllers and 1 12v deep cycle from costco or 2 6v golf carts.
https://www.ervsolar.com/Genasun-MPP...put-12V-Output
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2017, 8:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Man WC View Post
Curtis...Pimp'n. Nice pic.
gcvt, what plans or project do you have in mind?
I'm wanting to put some kind of portable solar camping\SHTF
set-up together for powering more than recharging AA\AAA batts.
Been looking at Zero Goal also, but I just can't part with that kind of $ for a few weekends a year,

-g
I put 200 watts of solar on the roof of the Class B late last year so I'll just use this inverter for charging stuff like laptop/iPad, AA/AAA batts, drone batteries etc. I plan on adding a 2000w inverter to the RV down the road.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2017, 8:51 PM
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Union City had about 10-12 of the 300 watt, 1 of the 600, 1 of the 1000 (missing the remote switch and battery cables) and four of the wiring kits when I was there at about 2:00pm.
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Old 02-01-2017, 9:45 PM
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I found the bigger ones for sale at another location, shipping ok.
FREE Store Pickup
5 available today at xxxxxx

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcvt View Post
Zamp Solar 300-Watt 12 VDC Inverter Pure Sine

If the link doesn't work, just go to lowes.com and search "zamp". No more 600w or 2000w but it's still a great deal if you need one for a laptop, etc.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zamp-Solar-...er/1000079937#

Picked up two today.
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Shoot, Scoot & Communicate = MOVE out of Kalifornia and regroup in a RED State. Why be flanked and continue to take enemy fire?

Last edited by uparmor; 02-01-2017 at 10:04 PM..
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2017, 10:16 PM
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I found the bigger ones for sale at another location, shipping ok.
FREE Store Pickup
5 available today at xxxxxx
2000w? I kinda want one. I have NO idea how to wire it in the my existing RV wiring but I could figure that out later with DesertJosh's help
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Apologies for the crude reference, but this is gonna be a 3-way gangbang.
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I want to be Princess Anastasia today because I feel pretty
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Kes is really just an errand boy
Proud NRA Member.
Tere Hanges 2013 participant.

Last edited by gcvt; 02-01-2017 at 10:20 PM..
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  #21  
Old 02-01-2017, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Man WC View Post
Screw it. Bought two of the 300w at this price.
Can anyone give me a short list of components that have
worked for them and what to steer clear of.. panels, battery, etc?
Starting point for home shed light set-up and a second on for
camping and off grid applications.
Thanks
-g
Can't really go wrong with panels from Renogy, Grape, or Zamp. For a simple LED "light in your shed" setup, you could just start with a single 100w mono panel for about $140 or less, a basic PWM charge controller for anywhere from $25-$80, and a single 12v deep cycle battery...or two 6v golf cart batteries.

Everything is really easy to expand upon on after that for portable camping applications. Another 100w panel would only require new dual MC4 connectors, cables, and the additional panel.
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Apologies for the crude reference, but this is gonna be a 3-way gangbang.
Quote:
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I want to be Princess Anastasia today because I feel pretty
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuarterBoreGunner View Post
Kes is really just an errand boy
Proud NRA Member.
Tere Hanges 2013 participant.

Last edited by gcvt; 02-01-2017 at 10:50 PM..
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  #22  
Old 02-01-2017, 10:36 PM
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2000w? I kinda want one. I have NO idea how to wire it in the my existing RV wiring but I could figure that out later with DesertJosh's help
you need big cables and very short to run 2k. it will pull 500 amps. welding cable with ends sweated on will do the job. i have a 2k and run a keurig coffee machine. it pulls massive amps. you need multiple batteries as well. 1 battery wont cut it.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:49 PM
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you need big cables and very short to run 2k. it will pull 500 amps. welding cable with ends sweated on will do the job. i have a 2k and run a keurig coffee machine. it pulls massive amps. you need multiple batteries as well. 1 battery wont cut it.
Our biggest draw would be the 700w microwave. We used to have a single cup coffee maker (1000w?) but moved on to a stove top percolator thingy like this...



...so we didn't have to run the generator to have Bailey's and coffee at night, or get out of the van in the morning to fire up the genny for coffee. We have two Group 27 AGM's.

The GF sometimes likes to eat leftovers late at night. My goal is to be able to run the microwave for three minutes late at night to make some leftovers for her. The way our Sportsmobile is set up, we cannot run the microwave without 'shore power'.
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Apologies for the crude reference, but this is gonna be a 3-way gangbang.
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I want to be Princess Anastasia today because I feel pretty
Quote:
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Kes is really just an errand boy
Proud NRA Member.
Tere Hanges 2013 participant.

Last edited by gcvt; 02-01-2017 at 11:03 PM..
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by uparmor View Post
get 2 renogy 100w panels, get a midnight solar mppt kid controller, get 2 6v golf cart batteries from costco. that will give you a decent minimum system. its what we ran on for 3 years before upgrading.

there are also some marine mppt charge controllers that are very nice but limited to 10amps charge. the kid can do 30amps.

the kid is nice, it has a 12v load port that supplies up to 10amps to battery chargers, dc to dc converters for running 12v items like laptops, tv,s etc.

plan B would be one renogy 100w panel one of these mppt controllers and 1 12v deep cycle from costco or 2 6v golf carts.
https://www.ervsolar.com/Genasun-MPP...put-12V-Output
Thanks. I've been reading about the controllers you suggested above and they both seem to be quality with the MidNite being 3x the cost of the first.
-g
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:08 PM
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Our biggest draw would be the 700w microwave. We used to have a single cup coffee maker (1000w?) but moved on to a stove top percolator thingy like this...



...so we didn't have to run the generator to have Bailey's and coffee at night, or get out of the van in the morning to fire up the genny for coffee. We have two Group 27 AGM's.

The GF sometimes likes to eat leftovers late at night. My goal is to be able to run the microwave for three minutes late at night to make some leftovers for her. The way our Sportsmobile is set up, we cannot run the microwave without 'shore power'.
a microwave would kill those batteries real quick, then kill them forever. its too much draw. its like redlining a motor over and over. i stopped using my keurig as well. i use a jetboil and coffee plunger. makes a cup in 45 seconds. the perc burns the coffee and it tastes like crap.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:11 PM
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Thanks. I've been reading about the controllers you suggested above and they both seem to be quality with the MidNite being 3x the cost of the first.
-g
kid is more $$$ but i can run 1900 watts of panels and a 48v system with one kid. use midnight solar calculator to determine setup.

look at the bratt pwm cc
http://www.midnitesolar.com/products...ers%20-%20Brat
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Shoot, Scoot & Communicate = MOVE out of Kalifornia and regroup in a RED State. Why be flanked and continue to take enemy fire?

Last edited by uparmor; 02-01-2017 at 11:41 PM..
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:40 PM
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look at the bratt too
http://www.midnitesolar.com/products...ers%20-%20Brat
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:40 PM
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a microwave would kill those batteries real quick, then kill them forever. its too much draw. its like redlining a motor over and over. i stopped using my keurig as well. i use a jetboil and coffee plunger. makes a cup in 45 seconds. the perc burns the coffee and it tastes like crap.
Jetboil is the ****. We love ours!

On the 700w microwave issue, if we are running the motor while using the microwave through a 2000w inverter, I figure we should be fine and then the solar would make up for it the next day, no?
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Apologies for the crude reference, but this is gonna be a 3-way gangbang.
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Kes is really just an errand boy
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  #29  
Old 02-02-2017, 12:02 AM
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Love


IMG_6126.jpg
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Apologies for the crude reference, but this is gonna be a 3-way gangbang.
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Kes is really just an errand boy
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Old 02-02-2017, 1:42 PM
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Jetboil is the ****. We love ours!

On the 700w microwave issue, if we are running the motor while using the microwave through a 2000w inverter, I figure we should be fine and then the solar would make up for it the next day, no?
Motor? You talking RV?

Skipping the motor, batteries do not take well to getting slammed by a 5-600 amp drain from a microwave/inverter or a coffee maker. Its very hard on them.

Get a jetboil and you can make coffee 2 ways. Either boil and plunge or boil and pour. The jetboil is fast and doesnt burn the coffee. I use mine 2-3x per day.

I want to make an adapter that screws into the side of those small canisters for the jetboil and allows me to hook a propane hose from our larger tank. I have those hoses running to other things like coleman propane stoves etc.

We are totally offgrid and use very little of everything. Its nice to know exactly how much you can "get by" on.

Water 10g's per day 2 people 1 dog.
Fuel without wood, 2g's of propane or equiv nat gas.
Wood, very little just a few logs
Electricity, about .5 kilowatt or 50amp hours per day (all solar when sunny)
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Old 02-02-2017, 4:27 PM
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On the 700w microwave issue, if we are running the motor while using the microwave through a 2000w inverter, I figure we should be fine and then the solar would make up for it the next day, no?
I assume you mean you're powering the inverter with your RV starter battery? It doesn't hurt but I don't think it helps much to run the RV engine. It depends on what your alternator outputs (in amps) over your 'house' load used. Most alternators can put out an excess of 10-30 amps but that's really a wild guess depending on the alternator and whatever other electronics are on at the time.

Suppose your typical 12V car battery has 70 Ah of capacity, but you don't really want to drain it down too far for the longevity of the battery. The easiest way to measure capacity is with Watt*hours (Wh). Let's say you just want to bring it down 50%, so that would be:

Wh = 12V * 35Ah = 420 Wh

This is your maximum (safe) battery capacity. When you convert DC to AC voltage, there are losses from your inverter - let's assume 80% efficient. This means your practical power capacity is:

420 Wh * 0.8 = 336 Wh

This means you could run your 700 W microwave for:

336 / 700 = 0.48 h ~= 29 minutes

If you ran your 700 W microwave for say 5 minutes, that would be:

(700) * (5/60) ~= 58 Wh

You'd use this same methodology for determining how much solar power you'd need to refill your battery. Granted, there is a caveat here in that usable battery capacity is also a function of current draw - capacities are given with a draw rate assumption. Lower is better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uparmor View Post
Skipping the motor, batteries do not take well to getting slammed by a 5-600 amp drain from a microwave/inverter or a coffee maker. Its very hard on them.
A 700 W microwave would draw roughly 70 A from the battery:

(700 W * 1.2) / 12V = 70 A

This number is likely lower assuming the battery is topped off (resting at higher voltage). While that isn't low, it's not terribly high either. You do want to keep current draw low for longevity sake, but the battery should be able to handle that for short periods. Starting a car/RV engine can draw 80-300 amps depending on type.
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Old 02-03-2017, 5:58 PM
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Thanks. Grabbed a 1000w inverter and controller/regulator

Someone cleared out all the panels. Cant blame em .. great deal

Going to set it up to run the mancave/garage off grid. Mainly TV , cablebox, small fridge and lights. Occasional tool use. Wont have a huge draw

And it will be portable to use it for the camper when i use that several times a year
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uparmor View Post
Motor? You talking RV?
Sorry, yes. Was talking about our Class B RV.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Citizen_B View Post
I assume you mean you're powering the inverter with your RV starter battery? It doesn't hurt but I don't think it helps much to run the RV engine. It depends on what your alternator outputs (in amps) over your 'house' load used. Most alternators can put out an excess of 10-30 amps but that's really a wild guess depending on the alternator and whatever other electronics are on at the time.

Suppose your typical 12V car battery has 70 Ah of capacity, but you don't really want to drain it down too far for the longevity of the battery. The easiest way to measure capacity is with Watt*hours (Wh). Let's say you just want to bring it down 50%, so that would be:

Wh = 12V * 35Ah = 420 Wh

This is your maximum (safe) battery capacity. When you convert DC to AC voltage, there are losses from your inverter - let's assume 80% efficient. This means your practical power capacity is:

420 Wh * 0.8 = 336 Wh

This means you could run your 700 W microwave for:

336 / 700 = 0.48 h ~= 29 minutes

If you ran your 700 W microwave for say 5 minutes, that would be:

(700) * (5/60) ~= 58 Wh

You'd use this same methodology for determining how much solar power you'd need to refill your battery. Granted, there is a caveat here in that usable battery capacity is also a function of current draw - capacities are given with a draw rate assumption. Lower is better.

A 700 W microwave would draw roughly 70 A from the battery:

(700 W * 1.2) / 12V = 70 A

This number is likely lower assuming the battery is topped off (resting at higher voltage). While that isn't low, it's not terribly high either. You do want to keep current draw low for longevity sake, but the battery should be able to handle that for short periods. Starting a car/RV engine can draw 80-300 amps depending on type.
I'll have to look at these numbers when I have more time.

But, what I'm dealing with is a 2003 Ford Econoline Class B Sportsmobile with whatever "heavy duty" alternator was available back then, two Group 27 house batteries (~200 AH), 200 watts of solar panels, and a Progressive Dynamics 9100 series power converter.

Right now, I have to hook up the Honda EU2000 as 'shore power' to run the microwave. The goal is to not have to bring that on short camping trips and still be able to use the microwave.
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Old 02-04-2017, 2:52 PM
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Arrived Thursday.
Starting small and looking for items on sale.
Trying to pair all components with the 300W inverter.
Panels and controller first, battery last after all other parts
are on hand.
-g
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Old 02-04-2017, 9:39 PM
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Got the last 1000 at Rancho Cucamonga. They had some 600 and 300. Riverside inventory says they have 11 1000s. But Covina & San Dimas said they had 2 but didn't have any. Next some solar panel to keep the trailer battery charged.
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:00 PM
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Santee Lowes had everything in stock. 300w, 600w, 1000w, and 2000w. Along with 60w panels and charge controllers.
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1NM View Post
Got the last 1000 at Rancho Cucamonga. They had some 600 and 300. Riverside inventory says they have 11 1000s. But Covina & San Dimas said they had 2 but didn't have any. Next some solar panel to keep the trailer battery charged.


You can save yourself a trip by ordering online for store pickup. If it really is instock you can pick it up. If not, you'll get a phone call that it is not in stock.
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Old 02-06-2017, 6:50 PM
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Thanks! Makes a ton more sense now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vmonkey View Post
You could go generator to battery charger to 12v battery to inverter.

It don't think your method would work because the inverter expects 12v in & 120v out. My little Honda 1000 has a DC out for charging batteries but don't know if you could connect to an inverter. Interesting question you have though.
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Old 02-07-2017, 9:02 PM
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Oxnard looks to have one 2000w still in stock for $135 if anyone is interested. Maybe call first.
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Old 02-07-2017, 9:07 PM
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Not much of anything available at any of the bay area Lowe's except the 300w.
I was hoping to pick up a few of the 100w panels at $69 ea.

-g
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