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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here.

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  #81  
Old 04-27-2012, 5:34 PM
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So my crappy news and good experience;
My 7144EL was scheduled for delivery on Thursday through Saia. And as scheduled, it arrived.... damaged! There was a tare through two layers of cardboard which ended with a thumbnail size scrape/chip through the powder coat, down to a black/gray primer. The scrape was on the very front of the safe on the left side door jam, at about eye level. I was disappointed, and I was on the fence about whether or not I should accept the safe or have a perfect one shipped out. I heard Rhino metals would send out some touch up paint for free, but I was still on the fence. I contacted Danny from Bull Dog Tuff Safes and he was very apologetic, but ultimately left the decision to me. After a long debate in my brain, I decided to return the safe and get one which was not damaged. The Saia delivery driver (Scott) was super cool and supportive. Being that we already had the safe in my driveway, nearly in my garage, and then had to box it back up and load it back onto the truck, I tipped the driver $10 which I practically had to force him to take. I called Danny back and told him I refused delivery; to say he was cool/understanding is an understatement. He told me he would contact Rhino metals and get another undamaged safe out to me ASAP. Well first thing this morning (the very next morning) I already had a email from Danny with a new tracking number, now with Reddaway. I consider that to be stellar customer service for both Bull Dog Tuff Safes (Danny) and Rhino Metals.
Some may think I am ridiculous to refuse a safe just for a thumbnail size chip in the surface, but I figure I paid $1600 for a perfect safe and thats what I should receive.
So.....of course I am a little bummed I dont have my new safe in my garage, however, I am very pleased with the experience, and the fact that my new safe has a projected delivery date for Tuesday(1st)! Amazing turn around.

Last edited by Blarson; 04-27-2012 at 8:02 PM..
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  #82  
Old 04-29-2012, 2:01 AM
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Post pics when you get it... I'm especially interested to see the interior quality and welds on the door.
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  #83  
Old 04-29-2012, 7:08 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
Cheap safes broken into in minutes
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  #84  
Old 04-29-2012, 7:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXTREMEOPS1 View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
Cheap safes broken into in minutes
Are you suggesting the Rhino safes fall into this category?
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  #85  
Old 04-29-2012, 8:13 AM
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Main thing is to bolt it down.
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  #86  
Old 04-29-2012, 9:57 AM
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All I was showing was you get the security you pay for!
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  #87  
Old 04-29-2012, 2:16 PM
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Originally Posted by EXTREMEOPS1 View Post
All I was showing was you get the security you pay for!
I only agree that you get the security that you pay for to an extent. It is too general of a statement, as there are companies out there that cut corners and charge a lot, and companies that don't and charge less. For example, my Dad bought a liberty safe from a dealer for around $800. It was a 30" wide model, weighed about 800 pounds, only had 1" locking bolts on two sides, and fire protection for just 30 minutes @1200. I think you can get a better more secure safe for about the same price, and you can also get a less secure safe for about the same price. This is why research is paramount. (I am not saying Liberty cuts corners, they make great safes)

With this being said, I think people buy the safe THEY CAN AFFORD. If I had copious amounts of disposable cash laying around, then I would buy the King of safes, with 1 gauge steel and a million 5" locking bolts, with limitless fire protection, and endless space. Heck, I would build an underground impenetrable armory. Unfortunately, I don't have loads of cash to spend on a safe, so I bought the best/biggest safe within my households budget.

Buying a safe is a lot like buying a car, you can buy a Honda, a Volvo, or a BMW; each will offer varying levels of protection for your MOST valuables, at vastly varying costs. If you can only afford a Honda, then buy the best/safest Honda you can afford. If you can afford a BMW, then buy the best/safest BMW you can afford. And if you fall right in the middle like most, buy the best/Safest Volvo you can afford, because what it all comes down to, is that at a certain speed, or under just the right circumstances, each one will fail and you will die. (Or you could buy a Ford, a Lincoln, or a Land Rover, you get the idea).

Gun safes, no matter what you spend, can always be entered. Buy the best of what you can afford, bolt it down, and know that no matter what, safes will always just be a deterrent, and not a guarantee.
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  #88  
Old 04-29-2012, 4:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blarson View Post
I only agree that you get the security that you pay for to an extent. It is too general of a statement, as there are companies out there that cut corners and charge a lot, and companies that don't and charge less. For example, my Dad bought a liberty safe from a dealer for around $800. It was a 30" wide model, weighed about 800 pounds, only had 1" locking bolts on two sides, and fire protection for just 30 minutes @1200. I think you can get a better more secure safe for about the same price, and you can also get a less secure safe for about the same price. This is why research is paramount. (I am not saying Liberty cuts corners, they make great safes)

With this being said, I think people buy the safe THEY CAN AFFORD. If I had copious amounts of disposable cash laying around, then I would buy the King of safes, with 1 gauge steel and a million 5" locking bolts, with limitless fire protection, and endless space. Heck, I would build an underground impenetrable armory. Unfortunately, I don't have loads of cash to spend on a safe, so I bought the best/biggest safe within my households budget.

Buying a safe is a lot like buying a car, you can buy a Honda, a Volvo, or a BMW; each will offer varying levels of protection for your MOST valuables, at vastly varying costs. If you can only afford a Honda, then buy the best/safest Honda you can afford. If you can afford a BMW, then buy the best/safest BMW you can afford. And if you fall right in the middle like most, buy the best/Safest Volvo you can afford, because what it all comes down to, is that at a certain speed, or under just the right circumstances, each one will fail and you will die. (Or you could buy a Ford, a Lincoln, or a Land Rover, you get the idea).

Gun safes, no matter what you spend, can always be entered. Buy the best of what you can afford, bolt it down, and know that no matter what, safes will always just be a deterrent, and not a guarantee.

Agreed. I just ordered the Bighorn 6039 so I that I will have something better than a rifle bag to secure my guns. Right now someone could take my rifles with minimal effort. At least having some form of a safe will make it more difficult.
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  #89  
Old 04-29-2012, 5:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXTREMEOPS1 View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
Cheap safes broken into in minutes

if you have your safe in the middle of an empty room not bolted down, wtf do you expect?????

that is too funny, wonder how many buy that bs sales pitch
try that to a safe in corner of room bolted to floor & walls
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  #90  
Old 05-01-2012, 4:38 AM
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Just heard about some neighbors that had their safe bolted down. Guess they went on vacation and some theives broke in, drilled/jackhammered into the concrete slab, and stole the safe right out the door!

Wow....
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  #91  
Old 05-01-2012, 7:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Just heard about some neighbors that had their safe bolted down. Guess they went on vacation and some theives broke in, drilled/jackhammered into the concrete slab, and stole the safe right out the door!

Wow....
yea wow, they must have known the safe was there and came prepared, I think the only way to prevent that situation from happening is by having a home security monitoring service so that the alarm alerts the police that theres been a break-in.
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  #92  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Just heard about some neighbors that had their safe bolted down. Guess they went on vacation and some theives broke in, drilled/jackhammered into the concrete slab, and stole the safe right out the door!

Wow....
How did the neighbors not hear anything? If your willing to do that you can have my safe.
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  #93  
Old 05-01-2012, 1:39 PM
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How did the neighbors not hear anything? If your willing to do that you can have my safe.
I guess the neighbors next door heard it but just assumed construction was going on...
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  #94  
Old 05-04-2012, 7:00 AM
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Just got the Costco Coupon Book. As stated by the OP:

36ECB $999 35.5 cubic feet 36 guns.

I'm getting one.
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  #95  
Old 05-04-2012, 8:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12voltguy View Post
if you have your safe in the middle of an empty room not bolted down, wtf do you expect?????

that is too funny, wonder how many buy that bs sales pitch
try that to a safe in corner of room bolted to floor & walls
This is exactly what I though, all it takes is the safe to a) be bolted down b) to be up against a wall on the left side. Both of those things would take away all that leverage and make your safe that much harder to break into. Personally If I had a garage with enough space i'd put my safe in a corner and build a cinder block container around it, bolted down of course. Plus most "safes" are only RSC rated unless you want to start spending some big bucks. Most robberies are smash and grabs, so any save will help tremendously.
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  #96  
Old 05-04-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Yemff View Post
This is exactly what I though, all it takes is the safe to a) be bolted down b) to be up against a wall on the left side. Both of those things would take away all that leverage and make your safe that much harder to break into. Personally If I had a garage with enough space i'd put my safe in a corner and build a cinder block container around it, bolted down of course. Plus most "safes" are only RSC rated unless you want to start spending some big bucks. Most robberies are smash and grabs, so any save will help tremendously.
yup
I can't see anyone watching that video & saying
"wow these guys are right"
don't treat customers as if they are stupid pee brain morons & you might get some sales.
I would never buy from them after that video
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  #97  
Old 05-05-2012, 8:03 PM
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Blarson.... any updates on your safe? Delivery/Pics?
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  #98  
Old 05-05-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Blarson.... any updates on your safe? Delivery/Pics?
Yeah. Ive had my safe since Tuesday, and love it. I literally took pictures for you today, but havnt had a chance to post them up yet. I will post an update with a bunch of pictures tomorrow.
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  #99  
Old 05-06-2012, 4:02 PM
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As stated above, I got my safe. Here is a quick review which will include a bunch of pictures. I bought a Bighorn 7144EL, OTD for $1600. I have yet to bolt it down, or move it to its exact final resting point. Ill start with the cons; the interior is very nice and of high quality, however, the one shelf which has a bunch of notches for long guns, is fully upholstered, but the carpet on the bottom side was coming unglued in a few places. So I gave a gentle tug to each "flap" of carped to find that most were very loose and came apart from the wood way to easily. This was disappointing, but was very easily amended, by removing the shelf, adding a dab of wood glue, and is now fixed. The safe came with a odor which wasnt very pleasant, smelled like epoxy or a weird rubber or something. I left the door open for a few days and the smell is almost undetectable now. The locking bolts are huge at 1.5" but they could extend a bit longer. The clips which hold up the shelves seem cheep, but they actually hold up the shelf pretty well. I have however heard reports of the clips failing under lots of weight. Thats all the Cons I could find so far. 2 of the 4 were easily amended, within a short period of time. And with 16, 1.5" locking bolts, I think the locking bolt length thing is really quite petty. And I know the shelving clip system could easily be upgraded at little cost.

Pros;
The fit and finish on this safe is outstanding. The exterior texture is beautiful and tough. The five spoke solid brass handles are really heavy and nice. Aside from the glue issue on the one shelf, the interior is very high quality and nice looking. This SAFE IS SOLID!! I pushed as hard as I could and could not tip this safe. It took all the strength that both my dad and I had to slide the safe less than one inch on one side. The electronic lock is very easy to program and works EVERY time without fail. The SAFE IS HUGE! I knew it was big, but man, this safe is BIG! It should have plenty of room for expansion. The welds are continuous and flawless. And a bunch of other great features which are listed and TRUE.

I did receive this safe with a small scratch on the left hand side. I called Danny and received touch up paint at my door in less than 4 days! Rhino metals and Bull Dog Tuff Safes, both have outstanding customer service. (So does California Safe Outlet)

Here are the pictures:

I put a five gallon paint bucket next to it to show size.







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  #100  
Old 05-06-2012, 4:05 PM
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Here is the bad shelf after pulling down on the carpet. It wasnt this bad on arrival. Just after pulling on each one.





Locking bolts and door welds:




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  #101  
Old 05-06-2012, 4:08 PM
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More interior shots:




You can kind of see the cheep clips in this picture if you look close.
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  #102  
Old 05-06-2012, 6:55 PM
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Where is the "hole" for the electrical cables from the interior to the exterior?
Upper left/right?
Lower left/right?
Wondering where/how to cable the golden rod + led cable lights.
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  #103  
Old 05-06-2012, 8:10 PM
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Quote:
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Where is the "hole" for the electrical cables from the interior to the exterior?
Upper left/right?
Lower left/right?
Wondering where/how to cable the golden rod + led cable lights.

The pre-drilled hole is at the bottom right if you are behind the safe looking directly at it. It is on the lower left corner if you are looking at the front of the safe.



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  #104  
Old 05-06-2012, 8:35 PM
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OK, I have to say, Go American!!!!

This is an investment. I suggest http://www.sunweldingsafes.com/Sun_W...oduct_Line.htm

For a review check this video out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-5vl...e_gdata_player">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-5vl...e_gdata_player" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">
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  #105  
Old 05-06-2012, 9:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DocCrazyJ View Post
OK, I have to say, Go American!!!!

This is an investment. I suggest http://www.sunweldingsafes.com/Sun_W...oduct_Line.htm

For a review check this video out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-5vl...e_gdata_player">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-5vl...e_gdata_player" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">
Your video and web link are not working. But I checked out the safes. They look nice but, for their 10 gauge steel models, they have smaller and fewer locking bolts, weigh less, and have half the fire protection, and no prices listed, but I bet they cost more than Rhino and Bighorn safes.... If you want to buy American, look at a Rhino safe. Great value and safes.
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  #106  
Old 05-06-2012, 9:23 PM
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Quote:
The pre-drilled hole is at the bottom right if you are behind the safe looking directly at it. It is on the lower left corner if you are looking at the front of the safe.
Thx!
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  #107  
Old 05-06-2012, 9:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blarson View Post
Your video and web link are not working. But I checked out the safes. They look nice but, for their 10 gauge steel models, they have smaller and fewer locking bolts, weigh less, and have half the fire protection, and no prices listed, but I bet they cost more than Rhino and Bighorn safes.... If you want to buy American, look at a Rhino safe. Great value and safes.
Which model where u looking at? Let me know and I can tell u a price for the 10 gauge with a 2 hour fire rating.
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  #108  
Old 05-08-2012, 9:01 AM
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Thanks for the pics Blarson... man looking at that drilled hole really gives you an idea just how thin this steel is... and that's 10 Guage!
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Old 05-08-2012, 9:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Thanks for the pics Blarson... man looking at that drilled hole really gives you an idea just how thin this steel is... and that's 10 Guage!
No problem. Let me know if you need to see anything else. I thought the same thing when I saw the hole. Glad I did not skimp and get a 14 gauge safe!
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  #110  
Old 05-08-2012, 9:22 AM
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Thanks for the pics Blarson... man looking at that drilled hole really gives you an idea just how thin this steel is... and that's 10 Guage!
of course it's thin
it's measured in guage not inches yet,lol
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:20 AM
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of course it's thin
it's measured in guage not inches yet,lol
Yea... guess for some reason I was thinking there would be a good 1/4 - 1/2" of steel there... hell, by looking at that photo a few good swings with a pick axe would probably easily penetrate that thing...

I'm a little disappointed


But then again, I guess that's why they make safes that are 4k and up! Just wayyyy out of my budget...




Blarson Think you could take a better angle pic of that hole to show the thickness a bit better? Just my curiosity getting to me lol

Last edited by Soul TKR; 05-08-2012 at 11:22 AM..
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  #112  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Yea... guess for some reason I was thinking there would be a good 1/4 - 1/2" of steel there... hell, by looking at that photo a few good swings with a pick axe would probably easily penetrate that thing...

I'm a little disappointed


But then again, I guess that's why they make safes that are 4k and up! Just wayyyy out of my budget...




Blarson Think you could take a better angle pic of that hole to show the thickness a bit better? Just my curiosity getting to me lol
1/4-1/2 would weigh allot

yes there are many videos of safes cut open with std axles

of course this is time consuming & make a bit of noise,lol

safes are to make snatch & grab lesss likely
keep guns away from kids etc
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  #113  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DocCrazyJ View Post
Which model where u looking at? Let me know and I can tell u a price for the 10 gauge with a 2 hour fire rating.
I looked at what appeared to be the only model which offered 10 gauge steel. The pony express model. Which included "Standard 1 x 1 fire protection 1200˚ at 30 minutes", with an option to upgrade to a higher rating for an additional cost.
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  #114  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Yea... guess for some reason I was thinking there would be a good 1/4 - 1/2" of steel there... hell, by looking at that photo a few good swings with a pick axe would probably easily penetrate that thing...

I'm a little disappointed


But then again, I guess that's why they make safes that are 4k and up! Just wayyyy out of my budget...




Blarson Think you could take a better angle pic of that hole to show the thickness a bit better? Just my curiosity getting to me lol
10 gauge steel is actually pretty thick, considering most sub $2000 safes (economy Cannon Safes) are sold with 14 Gauge steel. And although most safes can be penetrated with the right tools, under the right circumstances, and with enough time and privacy, I really doubt 10 gauge steel can be EASILY penetrated with a tool such as a pick axe. Granted I'm not willing to try it on my brand new safe to prove my theory ; )

To give you a better idea of thickness, most cars and motorcycles utilize 19 gauge steel for their bodies. Now you can probably easily penetrate the car door of a Porsche with a pick axe. But if practically doubled the thickness of a fender, it would make it MUCH harder to penetrate. Not to mention, most safes have nicer, thicker coatings, such as powder coating which also protect the metal. So although the safe is not measured in inches or even quarters of inches, it is still a great DETERRENT.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Soul TKR View Post
Blarson Think you could take a better angle pic of that hole to show the thickness a bit better? Just my curiosity getting to me lol


My TOTALLY scientific and PERFECTLY accurate way to show you the thickness/ depth


ABOUT where my thumbnail is at, to the end of the head of the screw.
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  #116  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:56 AM
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I will try and MIC this and show an actual measurement when I get the time. Because, now that I look at it, my thumbnail measurement looks a bit thick. And I totally cut my fingernails after posting these pictures, lol.
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  #117  
Old 05-09-2012, 1:28 AM
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10 gauge is 0.1345" thick
14 is 0.0747"
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  #118  
Old 05-09-2012, 4:41 AM
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Hmmm interesting... Thanks Blarson!
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  #119  
Old 05-09-2012, 4:45 AM
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So what seals the hole for the power cord in case of fire?
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  #120  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAShooter View Post
So what seals the hole for the power cord in case of fire?
I have thought about this same thing at length. For example, what would happen if the fire was so intense, as to melt the electrical cord all the way into your safe. This would be the one entry point for fire and smoke. Right now the hole is blocked by layers of fire board, which would do a good job of still protecting the interior from a fire. However, I am still on the fence on whether or not I want to install a electrical/USB outlet in my safe, and what ive come up with is this. If I decide to "wire" my safe, I will wrap the wire which protrudes outside of the safe with exhaust wrap (should withstand 1200 degrees), and then pack the area where the cord enters the safe with a heat resistant epoxy. When I worked as an electrician for 3 years, I used to use clay to pack around electrical conduit which would seal the conduit from filling with water. Eventually this clay/puddy would harden, and I'm sure it would be practically fire proof. I will probably use something like that to fill the hole, whether I "wire" my safe or not.
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