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Centerfire Rifles - Manually Operated Lever action, bolt action or other non gas operated centerfire rifles.

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:57 PM
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Default New Rifle Build Project...

Iíve planning and thinking of my next build which will be a long range hunting rifle. I have this Bell and Carlson M40 stock that used to hold my .308 700. Iím planning on using this stock for my hunting rifle build, since itís here anyways.

This is how it sat before I started working on it. It had a kydex cheek riser, was I inletted for a Magpul magazine system, and had the typical spider web paint.



First thing I wanted to do was get rid of the kydex riser. This meant having to fill the two holes on each side of the butt. Since it was hollow I needed something as a backer to give the filler something to stick too. I filled the stock with some expanding foam. After that day for a few days, I filled the holes with JB Weld. Today I sanded the JB down as well as sanding all the spider web paint off with my DA.



After that I found a few voids in the JB, so I did a skim coat of more JB.



Iím also filling the barrel channel where the two sling studs holes came through. Just so when itís all done the holes will be water proof. My next round of sanding will all be done by hand with a foam block.

Iím at the point now, where I donít know if I want to do any shaping to the stock. I wouldnít mind a thinner forend, but Iím afraid to sand to far into the glass. I also may texture the grip slightly just Incase Iím ever hunting in wet conditions. Lastly Iím trying to decide if I should just spray paint the stock or get some DuraCoat. Iíd hate to spray paint it just to have it wear off.

Last edited by NorCalFocus; 07-17-2018 at 10:01 AM..
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Old 06-17-2018, 5:25 PM
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Nice! Specs on the build? What game are you going after? What kind of yardage you looking to take said game. Looking forward to watching this.
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Old 06-17-2018, 7:02 PM
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Nice! Specs on the build? What game are you going after? What kind of yardage you looking to take said game. Looking forward to watching this.

Iím for sure doing 6.5 PRC. Aiming for about a 9-10 pounds finished rifle. For deer, antelope, bears, and elk. For deer I should be fine shooting to 800 yards and 500 on elk.

I havenít decided on final choice of smiths or builds yet but here the two choices I keep going back and forth on.
-TS Customs, Lone Peak Razor and benchmark barrel.
-Randall, using a Gunwerks action and Krieger barrel.
If I go with TS Customs it will come painted and ready to go. With Randall, I have to buy a reamer and have everything painted still.
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Old 06-17-2018, 7:23 PM
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If you can shoot a deer at 800 yards you are a better man than me.
Spray paint will come off with anything the stock rubs on. Is the stock channeled for a heavy barrel? Is that what you are using? May be pretty heavy. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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Old 06-17-2018, 8:02 PM
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If you can shoot a deer at 800 yards you are a better man than me.

Spray paint will come off with anything the stock rubs on. Is the stock channeled for a heavy barrel? Is that what you are using? May be pretty heavy. Looking forward to seeing the results.


Itís channeled for a Remington Varmint counter barrel. Iím looking at profiles that are slightly smaller than that. So not a heavy profile but not a backpack light profile either. I think the profiles Iíve looked at have a .700Ē muzzle finished at 26Ē. But Iím likely only going to do a 24Ē barrel.

Iíd have to have the prefect shot lined up to shoot at a deer at 800 yards. Iím very confident however from about 550 in right now. I could shoot a deer that far right now with my .308, but the 6.5 leaves a larger margin of error available for bad wind and distance calls.

Yeah I know the spray paint isnít that durable. I have clears that are super durable, but theyíre high gloss. Nothing dead flat.
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Old 06-17-2018, 9:49 PM
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Iím also filling the barrel channel where the two sling studs holes came through. Just so when itís all done the holes will be water proof.
Ok, I have to ask, what does it mayer if it is waterproof?

Shooting in the rain everything gets wet. What I tend to worry about is the chamber and ammo. They light fine wet, it's only because hot loads can act MUCH hotter with water drop on them.

I might be missing something sorry for the dumb question.
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Old 06-17-2018, 9:53 PM
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Ok, I have to ask, what does it mayer if it is waterproof?



Shooting in the rain everything gets wet. What I tend to worry about is the chamber and ammo. They light fine wet, it's only because hot loads can act MUCH hotter with water drop on them.



I might be missing something sorry for the dumb question.


I didnít take a picture so maybe itís not coming across right. But the fiberglass was broken out on the inside of the barrel channel where the two sling studs are mounted. With a barreled action in there you never see the holes, but I wanted them filled anyways. Mostly so I donít worry about water getting into the sling stud threads and dusting them to the aluminum mini chassis.
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Old 06-18-2018, 8:15 AM
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I would go with a 7mm build something like the 7SAUM keep the barrel at 26 inches and with handloads you can bust gongs at a mile.
If you plan on hunting hard with the gun spray paint at $5 a can is your best friend.
If your shooting from known stands with very little chance of dropping or scratching the gun get the stock hydro dipped.
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2018, 8:20 AM
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Originally Posted by NorCalFocus View Post
Itís channeled for a Remington Varmint counter barrel. Iím looking at profiles that are slightly smaller than that. So not a heavy profile but not a backpack light profile either. I think the profiles Iíve looked at have a .700Ē muzzle finished at 26Ē. But Iím likely only going to do a 24Ē barrel.

Iíd have to have the prefect shot lined up to shoot at a deer at 800 yards. Iím very confident however from about 550 in right now. I could shoot a deer that far right now with my .308, but the 6.5 leaves a larger margin of error available for bad wind and distance calls.

Yeah I know the spray paint isnít that durable. I have clears that are super durable, but theyíre high gloss. Nothing dead flat.
Carbon fiber barrel?
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Old 06-18-2018, 8:27 AM
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Carbon fiber barrel?
No.
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Old 06-18-2018, 9:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sd joe View Post
If you can shoot a deer at 800 yards you are a better man than me.

Honestly, nobody should be shooting deer at 800yds. I donít care if itís gunny hathcock or bob Lee swagger either. At 800 neither a 308 nor a 6.5CM has sufficient energy remaining to drop a deer in its tracks. It would require an absolutely perfect shot, and a whole lot of other things to go perfect too, all of which rarely happen when hunting. Deer arenít steel plates. And they arenít people either. A good hit for a sniper in combat isnít anything close to a good hit on game.



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Old 06-18-2018, 9:55 AM
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That was my point but I was trying to be diplomatic about it.
Shooting from a bench is different than laying on cold gravel shooting over a ravine with swirling wind. 300 yards is a hell of a shot in real world hunting.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:07 AM
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Honestly, nobody should be shooting deer at 800yds. I donít care if itís gunny hathcock or bob Lee swagger either. At 800 neither a 308 nor a 6.5CM has sufficient energy remaining to drop a deer in its tracks. It would require an absolutely perfect shot, and a whole lot of other things to go perfect too, all of which rarely happen when hunting. Deer arenít steel plates. And they arenít people either. A good hit for a sniper in combat isnít anything close to a good hit on game.



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Thanks for you opinion. But I may never even get a shot like that in my lifetime. I just want the option knowing I can. Iím also not building a 6.5CM nor would I take that shot with my .308.

Iím really donít want this thread to turn into a pissing match about cartridge choice or ethics.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rm1911 View Post
Honestly, nobody should be shooting deer at 800yds. I donít care if itís gunny hathcock or bob Lee swagger either. At 800 neither a 308 nor a 6.5CM has sufficient energy remaining to drop a deer in its tracks. It would require an absolutely perfect shot, and a whole lot of other things to go perfect too, all of which rarely happen when hunting. Deer arenít steel plates. And they arenít people either. A good hit for a sniper in combat isnít anything close to a good hit on game.



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90% of the DEER hunters at my local range can't hit a pie plate at 100 yards 5 out of 5 shots from a bench.
They don't have the scopes the mounts or the bases to make a 800 yard shot on a sleeping elephant.
With typical hunting ammo they buy at Wal-Mart hitting a deer at 800 yards is better than anything Bob Lee Swagger did in the movies.
I try not to lump everyone into that category and have witnessed my share of 1000+ yard kills.
With the 2019 ban on lead bullets and with most hunters not having the correct gear to shoot lead free ammo properly 100 yards is gonna be tough for alot of Deer hunters.
The deer loss mortality is going to go through the roof as the new solids simply pass through the animal.
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Old 06-18-2018, 8:32 PM
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OP is in Arizona so he can use good bullets.

If you get to be REALLY good, I can see wanting to be able to make a shot at 500 or 600 yards. If you somehow get lucky enough to draw a pronghorn or bighorn tag, you might not get another in your lifetime.
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Old 06-18-2018, 9:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rm1911 View Post
Honestly, nobody should be shooting deer at 800yds. I donít care if itís gunny hathcock or bob Lee swagger either. At 800 neither a 308 nor a 6.5CM has sufficient energy remaining to drop a deer in its tracks. It would require an absolutely perfect shot, and a whole lot of other things to go perfect too, all of which rarely happen when hunting. Deer arenít steel plates. And they arenít people either. A good hit for a sniper in combat isnít anything close to a good hit on game.



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Old 06-18-2018, 10:02 PM
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Well I know I won't be doing any re-shapping of this stock. As I've been sanding on it, voids in the gel or glass are popping up. If I really got into the material I'm sure I'd find all kinds of voids I'd need to fill. I'll pick up a small can of bondo tomorrow for filling the little voids I have now.

I also just ordered one of these https://www.atioutdoors.com/universal-cheekrest For $12 to my door, I'm going to do some playing around with it. Hoping to have a much nicer solution than the kydex riser that was there.

Last edited by NorCalFocus; 06-18-2018 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NorCalFocus View Post
I have this Bell and Carlson M40 stock

I’m at the point now, where I don’t know if I want to do any shaping to the stock.
I wouldn’t mind a thinner forend, but I’m afraid to sand to far into the glass.
The shell of that stock is only about 1/32" thick so do not sand into the glass AT ALL!

As soon as you break through the glass, you are just in the foam filling and will completely kill the integrity.
You can add on to the outside to re-shape the stock BIGGER with epoxy, wood or foam.
Do NOT cut through the glass or remove any significant area of the glass.
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Old 06-19-2018, 8:46 AM
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Originally Posted by LynnJr View Post
I would go with a 7mm build something like the 7SAUM keep the barrel at 26 inches and with handloads you can bust gongs at a mile.
If you plan on hunting hard with the gun spray paint at $5 a can is your best friend.
If your shooting from known stands with very little chance of dropping or scratching the gun get the stock hydro dipped.
Spray pain-CRAP
Hydro dipping-CRAP

Dura-Coat and you have a professional finish.
It will hold up better than the spray paint and the Hydro dip. These were all done With Dura-Coat using an Detail sprayer and Airbrush.
I have MANTY more examples, I've even done lots of custom work for the OP's parents.



















Last edited by Red Mist Maker; 06-19-2018 at 8:54 AM..
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Old 06-19-2018, 9:58 AM
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The only reason I'm considering spray paint, is because I have a pretty hefty supply of it. I'll be using two part epoxy primer (from a spray can) for a base coat. I'll likely just order a camo kit from Duracoat.
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:08 AM
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The only reason I'm considering spray paint, is because I have a pretty hefty supply of it. I'll be using two part epoxy primer (from a spray can) for a base coat. I'll likely just order a camo kit from Duracoat.
That's the way to go. but forgo the camo kit as there is a cheaper way to do it and get the exact color(s) you want. And unless you want a camo scheme for a specific pattern, make your own templates from good masking tape, OR freehand it, this is the way I do most of mine for a "one-of-a-kind" look. When you get ready let me know and I can give you pointers on what to do for the best results. As you know, I have been doing Dura-Coat work on a semi professional basis now for a long time.











Last edited by Red Mist Maker; 06-19-2018 at 11:31 AM..
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Old 06-19-2018, 6:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NorCalFocus View Post
The only reason I'm considering spray paint, is because I have a pretty hefty supply of it. I'll be using two part epoxy primer (from a spray can) for a base coat. I'll likely just order a camo kit from Duracoat.
Hey if it was good enough for Bob Lee Swagger, It should be just fine for you..... All kidding aside, I used Krylon years ago to paint one of the extra Fiberglass M14 stocks I have, and it held up really well. Since it was an experiment, I would have just repainted if it got damaged, but it never did.
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Old 06-19-2018, 9:17 PM
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We have a shooter at our matches who uses spray paint on his hunting rifles. When it gets scratched he simply repaints it again.
The paint job on my heavygun pictured above was done Michael Kavanaugh in Texas and it looks fantastic.
If it gets a scratch it requires a new paint job so it's strictly for a bench gun not a hunting gun.
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Old 06-21-2018, 4:26 PM
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Hey, let me know what you may need in the way of fiberglass supplies. I can get you set up for gel coat if you want the ultimate durable finish. Don't forget that your brother works in the plastics and composites industry... we could throw a layer of 45/55 hybrid aramid over it and satin clear that thing!

Try and get Dynatron products, not Bondo (even though my company invented bondo, lol) dyna lite will work better, or use microspheres and epoxy for fairing/filling.

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Old 06-21-2018, 6:48 PM
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Bondo, a two-part (resin with hardener added) mix of talc and plastic, was introduced in 1955. It was developed by World War II veteran and automotive repair shop owner Robert Merton Spink of Miami, Florida.[1]
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:07 AM
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Well the stock has been sitting not doing anything. I did get the cheek riser added to it and filled all the voids with glazing putty. Right now I'm waiting on some special paint for the stock.

I did order a Rem 700 SA with magnum bolt face. I'll have that about the first of August when my FFL gets back into town. I also just ordered a Trigger Tech trigger for the action as well. All that is left is a barrel, recoil lug, and a muzzle break. I'll likely just run over to Bruno's to pick up a Krieger barrel and lug next month.
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:30 AM
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If your close to Bruno have Lester put the barrel on for you. He is in the top 5 in Benchrest Hall Of Fame points and knows how to fit a barrel.
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Last edited by LynnJr; 07-17-2018 at 11:21 AM..
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Old 07-17-2018, 3:34 PM
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If your close to Bruno have Lester put the barrel on for you. He is in the top 5 in Benchrest Hall Of Fame points and knows how to fit a barrel.
I know he can and there's a few others local to me that can as well.

But honestly I've been bugging Randall and talking to him about this build. I'm really happy with his work on my .308, so I'll be using him again. I already have to go to SoCal in a few months, so hoping to have him do his work while I'm there.
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