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  #1  
Old 11-20-2018, 12:13 AM
Suparaito Suparaito is offline
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Default Best way to take rust out of the barrel?

One of my mosins, a 1938 Tula Hex, has rust in the barrel, and not too bad.

I did a cursory clean and ran a bronze brush with CLP about 50 times however there is still some rust.

Any advice or tricks on how to get rid of this ASAP? My girlfriend and I are gonna be doing some serious cleaning this weekend so I'd like to get prepared.
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2018, 4:33 AM
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Put your cleaning rod with brush in a drill and spin away.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2018, 7:04 AM
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Maybe swab some Naval Jelly in the bore?
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Old 11-20-2018, 7:13 AM
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I asked my neighbor who's a long time collector of old military rifles. He recommended plugging the end of the barrel with a rubber cork and filling the bore with KROIL, then leaving it over night. Then he cleans the bore with a bore brush. Then he does another round using Hoppes in stead of the KROIL and leaves it in over night. Finally a standard bore brush cleaning.
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2018, 7:20 AM
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Shoot it.
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2018, 2:40 PM
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Originally Posted by superhondaz50 View Post
Shoot it.
This. Don't bother with anything else until you have put a hundred or so rounds through the barrel. You can over clean a barrel, which will cause more damage than a bit of rust.

After shooting, just clean as normal, then oil.
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Old 11-20-2018, 3:30 PM
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"Put your cleaning rod with brush in a drill and spin away. "

Never, ever, ever, EVER do that. This is a really stupid ideal I hear from time to time. It is fine for a shotgun, never in a rifled barrel. I have seen rifle barrels destroyed by this method.

Doing this will ruin the barrel if you care about accuracy. It will not clean it properly anyway. It will not clean the corners of the rifling because you are moving across not with the lands and grooves. In a rifle there are lands and grooves then run parallel to the bore in a spiral. IF you eat them up with a spinning brush the bore will become bumpy for the bullet's travel. Accuracy will be destroyed.

Clean rifles with a forward and backward motions only.

"Maybe swab some Naval Jelly in the bore? " Naval jelly etches the steel. The bore will be rough. Accuracy will be destroyed. Naval jelly has no use on any gun ever.

Guys, if you don't know please don't speculate.

Steel wool wrapped around an old brush, with plenty of oil will remove the rust and not damage the bore.

Last edited by Scota4570; 11-20-2018 at 3:34 PM..
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Old 11-20-2018, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scota4570 View Post

Steel wool wrapped around an old brush, with plenty of oil will remove the rust and not damage the bore.
Only took a half dozen responses to get the right one.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2018, 5:46 PM
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Remind me to never buy a used gun from tr6guns !
. "and spin away"......really !
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2018, 9:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scota4570 View Post

Clean rifles with a forward and backward motions only.

Steel wool wrapped around an old brush, with plenty of oil will remove the rust and not damage the bore.

Truth!
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  #11  
Old 11-21-2018, 6:43 AM
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When I advised using a drill, I wasn't talking about leaving it in one spot for hours. But apparently intelligent thought isn't rampant to some. If you thought about it any you would realize that a brass brush is softer than the Barrel steel by far and the copper bullet is traveling a lot faster than the brush but doesn't ruin the bore, and sometimes you just need the rotation to clean some hard spots. And furthermore its been done in the Military for years.
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2018, 8:03 AM
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I use Big45 frontier metal cleaner alloy.
Gets rid of rust, not as abrasive as steel wool (doesnt take off bluing)
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2018, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
I use Big45 frontier metal cleaner alloy.
Gets rid of rust, not as abrasive as steel wool (doesnt take off bluing)
You could be right, I have no experience with that product.

Oily clean steel wool will not remove blueing. It is not abrasive. IF steel wool covered in rust and dirt is becomes abrasive. Just use common sense.

There is a very simple proven solution the OP's question, I gave it.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
When I advised using a drill, I wasn't talking about leaving it in one spot for hours. But apparently intelligent thought isn't rampant to some. If you thought about it any you would realize that a brass brush is softer than the Barrel steel by far and the copper bullet is traveling a lot faster than the brush but doesn't ruin the bore, and sometimes you just need the rotation to clean some hard spots. And furthermore its been done in the Military for years.
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LOL, What military?
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:33 PM
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So, has anyone ever used Kroil before?? I always see it in gun stores but never bothered to pick it up. I do remember Iraqveteran8888 had some good things to say about it.
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Old 11-21-2018, 1:23 PM
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I haven't had any rusty gun parts yet but I've used "Metal Rescue" on tools, hardware and an axe head. It turns them back to their condition prior to rust and doesn't do anything to the original finish or paint. I found a file in my yard form who know when(prior to my purchase) and it was all crusty and rusty. I dropped it in a bowl of Metal Rescue overnight and the next day it looked like I just bought it. Not sure if someone lost it when it was brand new or if it was hardly used but it looked like new after that.
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2018, 1:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitehawk117 View Post
I haven't had any rusty gun parts yet but I've used "Metal Rescue" on tools, hardware and an axe head. It turns them back to their condition prior to rust and doesn't do anything to the original finish or paint. I found a file in my yard form who know when(prior to my purchase) and it was all crusty and rusty. I dropped it in a bowl of Metal Rescue overnight and the next day it looked like I just bought it. Not sure if someone lost it when it was brand new or if it was hardly used but it looked like new after that.
If it is a rust remover, it will remove bluing.
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2018, 1:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suparaito View Post
So, has anyone ever used Kroil before?
It is very effective at penetrating into and between metal and substances such as rust, powder residue, lead/copper fouling.

It doesn't dissolve or remove stuff, just helps it get moving. If you have it available, it would probably help the mechanical action of scrubbing the rust.
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2018, 9:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suparaito View Post
So, has anyone ever used Kroil before?? I always see it in gun stores but never bothered to pick it up. I do remember Iraqveteran8888 had some good things to say about it.
Yes, it is one of the best penetrants around. I was introduced to it while working on cranes to free up stuck rusty parts, it really works. I have also used it for barrel cleaning. Funny thing about it as a barrel cleaner since it isn't a lubricant, patches wet with it squeak when I push them through a barrel.
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Old 11-22-2018, 4:12 AM
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shoot it has rust then there will be pits under it you cannot put back metal.
shooting will clean out surface rust but lower pits will stay no matter what
and below bore line will not be cleaned or hurt anything
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Old 11-22-2018, 9:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Pardini View Post
LOL, What military?
I once watched a sergeant drive an ill fitting blank adapter into the muzzle of a mint M-14 with a claw hammer. Maybe we should attack the muzzles our rifles with hammer too?

There is no way to spin a brush in a rifle and do anything good, none, really.
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2018, 9:19 AM
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Electrolysis
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Old 11-22-2018, 4:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
When I advised using a drill, I wasn't talking about leaving it in one spot for hours. But apparently intelligent thought isn't rampant to some. If you thought about it any you would realize that a brass brush is softer than the Barrel steel by far and the copper bullet is traveling a lot faster than the brush but doesn't ruin the bore, and sometimes you just need the rotation to clean some hard spots. And furthermore its been done in the Military for years.
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Apparently you don't understand how a bullet travels thru a bore with rifling. And the purpose of the rifling.

Never use a drill and brush in a rifle barrel.
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Old 11-22-2018, 8:37 PM
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As further explanation regarding electrolysis, I had a nasty barreled mosin and I tried cleaning it via standard methods to no avail, quite like yourself. Electrolysis method: stainless steel rod longer than your barrel. Wrap electrical tape around the rods top and bottom so it will not touch the barrel directly and hold it roughly center. Cork the bottom... I think I used a foam ear plug, and taped it in place for good measure. Fill barrel with your cleaning concoction (mine was equal parts water, distilled vinegar, ammonia). Attach the positive lead to the barrel, negative to the rod- I used 3 D batteries mcgyver taped together with ghetto wire taped to the respective leads, some use a small wall electrical charger with stripped wires... You'll know it's working when it's foaming black nasty gunk out of the open topped barrel. Retrospect, tape a funnel to the top. I did it in the bath tub, it worked... Don't do it too long... Depending on your power source, you might be good with less than 60sec, or you'll need a couple minutes. Don't go too long, or you can damage your barrel by stripping good metal. Electrolysis... Usual wire brush cleaning regiment... Examine bore... Repeat as needed. After two electro sessions, my bore looked nice and shiny! No brushes attached to a drill to ruin your lans and gooves.
I was going to link a YouTube video, but they're all horrible quality. Feel free to watch.
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Old 11-26-2018, 1:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
If it is a rust remover, it will remove bluing.
I'm not sure if it is a rust "remover", but more of a converter. Although bluing is a type or "corrosion process" it can be repeated if it is removed. If you remove rust, you are removing converted material that cannot be put back. I don't specialize in metallurgy but I would like to try it to see the results for myself.
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Old 11-26-2018, 1:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitehawk117 View Post
I'm not sure if it is a rust "remover", but more of a converter. Although bluing is a type or "corrosion process" it can be repeated if it is removed. If you remove rust, you are removing converted material that cannot be put back. I don't specialize in metallurgy but I would like to try it to see the results for myself.
It is advertised as a rust remover, so if your gun is blued and you are not planning to refinish, I would advise against using it.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:35 PM
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Degrease and steam the crap out of the barrel. Stop rust from continuing to eat away metal by converting red oxide to blue magnetite.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:54 PM
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Plug one end after degreasing...add Evaporust and leave for 2-3 days but make sure it doesnt contact any blued or parked surfaces
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Old 11-27-2018, 3:11 AM
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Evapo-rust https://www.harborfreight.com/1-quar...ver-96433.html

Removes rust and nothing else.

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Old 12-01-2018, 6:15 AM
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I've cleaned up rusty blueing with fine steel wool and oil without damaging the blue, I've also used it in a barrel as suggested earlier and it left it shiny but it wasn't real bad. The drill idea is something I'd shy away from. The vapo-rust might be a good way to go.
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Old 12-01-2018, 6:17 AM
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I've cleaned up rusty blueing with fine steel wool and oil without damaging the blue, I've also used it in a barrel as suggested earlier and it left it shiny but it wasn't real bad. The drill idea is something I'd shy away from. The vapo-rust might be a good way to go.
Evaporust will remove bluing. That is what I use to remove bluing actually.
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Old 01-01-2019, 3:47 AM
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Try those green plastic scouring pads. Cut a section for your cleaning rod and work it.
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Old 01-01-2019, 7:14 AM
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Less is more. Bronze brush, hoppes or clp, and clean until most of the rust is out. Go shoot and repeat. I have on old rifle with some rust and that is what was recommended to me. The gun is accurate, despite some minor pitting towards the end of the barrel. My concern with using harsh chemicals or scrubbing too much is that you’ll take off the good with the bad. Definitely want to make the barrel had a coating of clp or some other type of rust preventative before putting it back in the safe.
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Old 01-01-2019, 7:39 AM
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I keep my old worn out bronze brushes and wrap a bit of copper wool around them to clean rusty bores. Same concept as using steel wool; just a bit easier on the metal.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:19 AM
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Just to add my quick $0.02 (FWIW)...

I am a true believer in Bullfrog RustHunter Gun Cleaner. I've never used it to remove existing rust from the bore (only preventive), but it has done wonders on surface rust over the exterior. Saved one of the department's shotguns from an early grave, it did! Apply the RustHunter and let it sit awhile (in the case of the shotgun, I left it a week... but that was a real bad case of rust). Then do a regular cleaning and watch the patches come out orange with old rust. Repeat as necessary.

No steel wool required.
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Old 01-07-2019, 9:12 PM
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So much mis-information.

Get some COPPER Chore Boy pot scrubber. Cut a small piece off and wrap it around a worn brass bore brush. Coat liberally with oil and run that back and forth in the barrel. When it gets easy to push/pull wrap a little more Chore Boy and oil. You should be getting brownish goo coming out. Swab out and check progress. Rinse & Repeat as necessary. It works and will not harm the barrel.
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Old 02-09-2019, 3:29 PM
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Pretty much all of these will work...
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Old 02-09-2019, 3:39 PM
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Quote:
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Put your cleaning rod with brush in a drill and spin away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wpage View Post
Pretty much all of these will work...
Except for that one....
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Old 02-09-2019, 3:50 PM
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Straight vinegar on a patch, keep using new soaked patches until it comes clean. Follow with a couple patches soaked in baking soda in water, then dry thoroughly and oil.
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