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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 07-07-2013, 8:27 PM
KGenter KGenter is offline
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Default Garand not stripping next round

So I recently acquired an M1 Garand from the CMP that was a complete rebuild with new barrel and all parts refinished. I was sighting in today with new Hornady range ammo and new clips (both also from CMP thank you) and accuracy was great but even though each round ejected I never had the next round stripped from the clip (closed bolt on empty chamber) and thus always had to cycle the operating rod to chamber the next round. Also, after the last round the clip failed to eject unless I pulled the operating rod fully to the rear of the action.

Can anyone let me know what of any adjustment are needed or simply some additional break in? The Garand is new to me but I have extensive history with the MIA.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2013, 8:39 PM
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Try different ammo. I've read some where that M1s need strong ammo to operate the gas system. It might be short stroking and not fully cycling and leading to the issues you are getting.

This is pure assumption off my AR/AK/Bolt gun knowledge. I'm not a M1 pro not owned one but it sounds like this may be your issue being I shot one and know how they operate.
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2013, 8:50 PM
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1. I assume you stripped it, removed any packing grease, and then properly lubed it, right?

2. You mention using hornady ammo... afaik they don't have any garand loads. You didn't mention swapping out the gas plug, you're not supposed to be shooting modern factory ammo in a garand with the stock gas plug(if it is a load that's specifically made for the garand, shouldn't be an issue, go back to #1).
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Old 07-07-2013, 8:53 PM
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It is short stroking. Strip everything and check for oprod binding. Do the tilt test.

Call CMP, they'll make it right. My OR was binding on my service grade as well, and they took care of everything. The heatshield on my FHG was the culprit, so check that for rub marks as well.
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Old 07-07-2013, 8:53 PM
Dead*Reckoned Dead*Reckoned is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc1138 View Post
1. I assume you stripped it, removed any packing grease, and then properly lubed it, right?

2. You mention using hornady ammo... afaik they don't have any garand loads. You didn't mention swapping out the gas plug, you're not supposed to be shooting modern factory ammo in a garand with the stock gas plug.
Garands don't use lube they use grease anyways. Hornady does actually make a Garland ammo, maybe the open will chime in if that was what he used
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Old 07-07-2013, 8:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead*Reckoned View Post
Garands don't use lube they use grease anyways. Hornady does actually make a Garland ammo, maybe the open will chime in if that was what he used
Grease is lube

The preservative grease that is crammed into the nooks and crannies of some of the garands from CMP makes a very poor lube, a better lubricating grease should be used. BTW, not everything in a garand needs to be greased either, as there are a couple points where an oil does a better job, not to mention you wouldn't degrease the parts and then leave everything bare anyway.

Last edited by Merc1138; 07-07-2013 at 8:59 PM..
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Old 07-07-2013, 8:58 PM
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Clean it. Grease it wherever there is "white" and shoot some M2 ball. If it still short-strokes send it back to CMP or take it to a reputable Garand mechanic.
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2013, 9:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGenter View Post
So I recently acquired an M1 Garand from the CMP that was a complete rebuild with new barrel and all parts refinished. I was sighting in today with new Hornady range ammo and new clips (both also from CMP thank you) and accuracy was great but even though each round ejected I never had the next round stripped from the clip (closed bolt on empty chamber) and thus always had to cycle the operating rod to chamber the next round. Also, after the last round the clip failed to eject unless I pulled the operating rod fully to the rear of the action.

Can anyone let me know what of any adjustment are needed or simply some additional break in?
Make sure the gas plug is tight.
If it were loose, you would be wasting gas out the front instead of fully pushing the op-rod rearward.
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  #9  
Old 07-07-2013, 9:11 PM
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Get adjustable gas plug, then you can use most ammo.

Midwayusa as a few.


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  #10  
Old 07-08-2013, 7:06 AM
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Pull the gas plug and check to see if gas port in barrel is visible and centered in gas cylinder cutout.

Back off or screw in gas cylinder lock nut to center port in gas cylinder cutout..
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Old 07-08-2013, 8:55 AM
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Good write-up to read through:
http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-failure-to-cycle
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:05 AM
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I bet you never greased it did you? The Service Grade Specials come dry and need to be tore down and properly greased at all grease points
A dry Garand without grease can short stroke
After you properly grease the rifle fire again and report back
Any quality wheel bearing grease is more than adequate, no need for so called high tech gun grease
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  #13  
Old 07-08-2013, 12:17 PM
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I'd also check the oprod spring and make sure there's no broken-off bit of an old spring in the cylinder.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paltik View Post
I'd also check the oprod spring and make sure there's no broken-off bit of an old spring in the cylinder.
My service grade special was in such great shape, but a little piece of spring had broken off. I'd just go ahead and replace that spring anyways, they are almost always worn down.
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Old 07-08-2013, 5:50 PM
KGenter KGenter is offline
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Thanks to all for the replies.

The Ammo is M1 Garand specific (Hornady 81130 rated at 2800fps at muzzle).

Yes, upon review the bolt and action is bone dry so I will tear down and lube the bearing points on the bolt and slide like I would my M1A (or mini-14 for that matter), thought there was at least some lube in there but not so. All I did prior to range was bore snake (is new criterion barrel)

This was an arsenal rebuild by CMP so hope and the parts are in good shape but will also confirm gas port not being loose.

I have to agree, issue is short stroke.

Will let you all know how next outing goes.
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  #16  
Old 07-08-2013, 8:39 PM
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Besides broken operating springs lurking inside the operating rod, bits of rag, lost cleaning patches, paper, dried grease and dirt have been found inside which can bind up the spring and cause all sorts of feeding problems.
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Old 07-09-2013, 6:29 AM
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M1 short stroking is 99% of the time caused by gas system failures. These can come in many forms. Check the simple stuff first. Ammo. Gas plug poppet valve loose, gas plug loose, or gas piston/cylider fit. Gas piston wear is usually eccentric and it doesn't take much to turn it into a single shot. Also check for deep scrtaches or gouges in the cylinder, as they allow gas to blow by. Like smle-man says, check for garbage in the op-rod tube.
The tolerance on a piston is .0007" (.5253" to .5260") and cylinder max of .5310" . Measure the cylinder at the power stroke area, which is the first 1/3rd. Stick hard and fast to these dimensions for match guns, for shooters and blasters the final test is "if it cycles".
With a working gas system, the M1 will digest all kinds of dirt, sand, sewage, bilge, lack of lube, crud, etc. Tilt tests are fine for accuracy work, but a gun that doesnt pass it will still fuction fine for shooting at the enemy, as long as the gas system is working properly.

The bottom line with your particular rifle is you got it from the CMP and they will bend over backwards to fix it. I have sent a few things back to them over the years and was never disappointed with what came back.

Last edited by kendog4570; 07-09-2013 at 6:33 AM..
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2013, 11:42 AM
Orlando Orlando is offline
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Its a newly built Garand by CMP, just grease it and I will bet your problems will go away.
They are freshly reparked so without proper lubrication you can have short stroking
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:58 PM
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My first M1 from the DCM ($68 plus shipping, 1 per cutomer per lifetime) had a worn piston.

No amount of kroil or frog lube would fix it.
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Old 07-09-2013, 1:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
My first M1 from the DCM ($68 plus shipping, 1 per cutomer per lifetime) had a worn piston.

No amount of kroil or frog lube would fix it.
Well yeah, that could happen too. As far as why I mentioned cleaning and lubing it, my service grade showed up packed with so much gunk that I could barely manually operate the thing. The SG special I got was bone dry.
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Old 07-09-2013, 1:23 PM
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This is not the first Service Grade Special that I have heard of that short stroked because of fresh park and no lube.
Not saying it cant be something else but you should try the most obviuos first so you arent chasing yor tail
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Old 07-09-2013, 1:38 PM
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Took my Springfield service grade from CMP apart last night and measured the piston (perfect), the spring should be 20.25 inches it is 19 so I ordered a Fulton Armory from Brownell's for $7 and change.
When I read threads like this one I sometimes go back through and check the specs. on mine.
Did anybody see the Garand collectors magazine this month?
There is an article on barrel wear. Those guys shot over 14,000 rounds through a Garand.
Whew these rifles are well built!
Sorry to steal the thread.......
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