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  #1  
Old 06-23-2019, 8:45 AM
baih777 baih777 is offline
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Default Bedding action Help ****update post #22 ****

This is only my second stock that I have bedded. This one is going wrong.
Prepped me stock for bedding.
Using Devcon for bedding.
Last time shoe polish worked great for mold release.
This time my barreled action is painted Durachrome. Shoe polish would not stick.
So I tried Pam.
Well I just removed the action. Took about 45 minutes and a great deal of force.
Ended up pulling some of the wood out and half the bedding stuck to the action.
Need a good mold release for Devcon. Suggestions.. ?
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Last edited by baih777; 06-27-2019 at 12:40 PM..
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2019, 9:03 AM
Sailormilan2 Sailormilan2 is offline
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Brownells had a brush on release agent that works well. Alcohol based. Recommend two coats, thoroughly dried between.
Brownells also has a spray on aerosol type. I've used both, and prefer the spray on. But the brush on is cheaper.
If you have a chest type freezer, you put the whole rifle in it and let the cold shrink the metal. That might help, but no guarantees.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2019, 9:08 AM
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Any paste wax. I have been using the same quart can of Johnson's Floor wax for 30 years. Next time one sticks on you, put a one piece rail on the receiver and put a clothes iron on top of the base. Let it heat for a while and it will come out. No need to scorch it, just a moderate setting. New nanny state irons dont work as well as vintage ones because they have a motion shut off feature that protects us from ourselves.
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:12 AM
riflehunter riflehunter is offline
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Kendog is right, you can try a heat gun but not too much or a hair dryer but it will break free.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
Any paste wax. I have been using the same quart can of Johnson's Floor wax for 30 years. Next time one sticks on you, put a one piece rail on the receiver and put a clothes iron on top of the base. Let it heat for a while and it will come out. No need to scorch it, just a moderate setting. New nanny state irons dont work as well as vintage ones because they have a motion shut off feature that protects us from ourselves.
Nice tip. Thank you.
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Old 06-23-2019, 1:21 PM
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Johnson's, put at least two coats on.
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Old 06-23-2019, 1:52 PM
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I use case lube rub on wax. Never had one stick.
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Old 06-23-2019, 5:33 PM
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tried different waxes and polish, mold release.
mixed some epoxy and put it on and some tape it down.
really strange. the epoxy keeps sticking to the painted action.

I do have an iron. used it to raise the dents out of AK receivers.

might try the case lube tomorrow.
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Old 06-23-2019, 9:44 PM
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Dumb question. Was it bedded below the centerline? Noob mistake I had one time.


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Old 06-24-2019, 6:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakker View Post
Dumb question. Was it bedded below the centerline? Noob mistake I had one time.


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Mechanical locks are the worst. If the epoxy is bonded to the metal no big deal. A little heat and they all come free. I once bedded a Win 70 that had a very slight reverse taper to the integral recoil lug. Didn't find out till time to break it apart for clean up. Invented some new cuss words that day.


A little add to the iron trick. While it is warming up I place a small rubber wedge stopper at the fore end tip between the stock and the barrel and add a little gentle upward pressure. When the bond lets go the action will rise up out of the stock. Most of the time you can save the bedding job and not have to hog it out and re-do it.
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  #11  
Old 06-24-2019, 7:02 AM
baih777 baih777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakker View Post
Dumb question. Was it bedded below the centerline? Noob mistake I had one time.


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that's the first thing I checked. I was below centerline.
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Old 06-24-2019, 7:04 AM
baih777 baih777 is offline
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watched a few more youtube videos last night.

think I need to pickup a couple of cheap stocks off ebay to practice.
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Old 06-24-2019, 4:47 PM
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This looks like a pretty good practice stock.
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Old 06-24-2019, 9:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothy8500 View Post
This looks like a pretty good practice stock.
I have all that including the duct tape. even some Thompsons water seal.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2019, 5:56 AM
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Devcon is a great product, easy to mix and doesn't run. Johnson Paste Wax is pure wax that works best.




Last edited by smoothy8500; 06-25-2019 at 6:00 AM..
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2019, 6:31 AM
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Devcon Steel Putty. Good Stuff.
A little side note. Wax doesn't "build up". It is an evaporative finish, similar to shellac. The second coat dissolves the first, even if it is 10 years between coats. Just slather it on, let it "dry" (let the solvent/carrier evaporate) and buff it.
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Old 06-25-2019, 9:12 AM
baih777 baih777 is offline
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yesterday I spent a lot of time prepping my stock for my next attempt .
I tried car wax and carnauba wax. the problem is it started taking off the Durachrome when I tried to polish it.
so I did a test last night.
I masked the whole receiver with blue painters tape. its less than .001 thick when pulled tight. I put a thin coat of shoe polish and it stuck good to the tape.
I will put on a second thin coat later.
still gonna pickup some of that Johnsons floor wax .

my thinking was to have the rifle painted first since Durachrome is a two coat process. may be next time I know I am going to have a rifle painted, I will use the tape and bed the action first, then have the rifle painted.

or maybe this Durachrome is just not as durable as claimed.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2019, 9:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
Wax doesn't "build up". It is an evaporative finish, similar to shellac. The second coat dissolves the first. Just slather it on, let it "dry" and buff it.
Good to know, thanks.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:46 AM
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i like marinetex only because I can buy any size i want on a Saturday at the marine supply. from a small tube to a gallon can and anything in between.
I also use paste wax and never had and issue and it cleans up far easier than the Brownell's blue release agent
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:53 PM
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OP, like Kendog and others. I've used Johnson's Paste Wax exclusively since the early 70s. Never had one stick after doing north of a couple dozen. Used many different bedding mediums. Micro Bed, Marinetex, Devcon, Herters, Acra-Glas both resin and gel, etc, etc.

All were either stainless or blued steel.

I honestly believe you are experiencing a conflict between the solvents in the release, and the paint. Allowing the medium to migrate through the release.

Even Johnson's has a small amount of solvent in it. But far less than the auto type wax or shoe polish that have a lot of "drying agents".

Time to share a tip for all doing epoxy bedding of actions.

Throw away the Play Dough and modeling clay everybody. What a pain in the WaZoo first fill everything, then to dig out after the fact.

Get a roll of the FOIL DUCT SEAL tape. Trim to fit proud of mag well, trigger group slot, 1/4" squares over screw holes. Peel the backer and apply. Cuts with scissors. Peels off with fingernail when done. Apply release right over the tape.

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  #21  
Old 06-27-2019, 11:07 AM
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I used Pam for years for my release agent, then they went and changed the formula....... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Had one stick, tried heat to the top of the action with a clothing iron, didn't work.

Tried freezing it, thought I was going to break the stock getting it out.

After that point I made a horse shoe shaped piece of Alum with a "J" hook and nut. Hooks into the front of the receiver, Alum rests on the sides of the stock. Tighten the nut a half to 3/4 turn, out it pops.

Have never damaged a stock.

Johnson paste wax is as good as it gets.
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Old 06-27-2019, 12:40 PM
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update
thank you kendog for the iron tip.
I removed the action from my second attempt.
I left the iron on for 30 minutes. I grabbed the action to get ready to pull it out and it just came loose.
I think I used too much shoepolish. not as smooth as other peoples pics.
have to give mine a " C " grade.

lesson learned.
I need to spend more time and patience prepping.
ordered some more dremel bits.
picked up some Johnsons paste wax.
and I timed the Devcon. I have at least 15 minutes before it becomes too hard to use. I panicked and thought I had to apply it immediately. its nothing like JB weld.

Thank you all for all your suggestions.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2019, 1:18 PM
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It's all good. Chalk it up as a practice run.
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Old 06-27-2019, 8:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baih777 View Post
my thinking was to have the rifle painted first since Durachrome is a two coat process.
may be next time I know I am going to have a rifle painted, I will use the tape and bed the action first, then have the rifle painted.
Always paint before bedding.
The paint needs to be there to for the bedding to be the proper dimension.
If you can't figure out a release, change to a different paint to solve the problem.
Do NOT do a bedding job with tape between the reciever and bedding.
You can/should tape the sides/front/bottom of the recoil lug.
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