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  #1  
Old 07-14-2019, 6:18 AM
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Default Mylar tape to protect from scratches?

Hey guys,

I seemed to recall a gunsmith telling me he uses Mylar tape to protect a gun barrel from scratches when it is cinched down in a shop vise. Is there a specific tape I need? Is the foil tape used for HVAC insulation good enough?

I have a brand new AR upper whose muzzle device I'm trying to take off. I've dipped it in boiling water for 20 minutes, clamped it in Delrin vise jaws and it spun in the vise. I then torched it with a propane torch until it smoked, and it still spun in the vise. If I get it any hotter, I'm afraid of melting my Delrin vise jaws. I'm thinking of using my aluminum vise jaws but I don't want to scratch my new barrel.

I have a barrel reaction rod coming in the mail, but I kind of want to do it this weekend.

Thanks in advance!


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Old 07-14-2019, 7:20 AM
baih777 baih777 is online now
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If the muzzle device is on that tight. Do not use a reaction rod to try and loosen.
Make sure that muzzle device is not pinned on.
Is that barrel less than 16 inches ?
Is it a factory installed muzzle device ?
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Old 07-14-2019, 7:53 AM
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The barrel is 18 inches, and yes, it’s factory installed. I can’t see a reason why they’d pin and weld it. Is it possible my Delrin vise jaws are just too slippery?


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Old 07-14-2019, 8:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beanz2 View Post
Is it possible my Delrin vise jaws are just too slippery?


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Delrin is slippery, it's petroleum based.
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Old 07-14-2019, 8:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Cuda View Post
Delrin is slippery, it's petroleum based.
Thanks. I guess that is a moment. I'll get some Mylar tape from Home Depot (my new favorite store now) and use the aluminum vise jaws.


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Old 07-14-2019, 8:27 AM
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Mechforce - Professional Grade Heavy Duty Barrel Vise, Barrel Surface Protection Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU4GNSG..._sF1kDbGJYF1F1
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Old 07-14-2019, 8:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AlHO1966 View Post
Mechforce - Professional Grade Heavy Duty Barrel Vise, Barrel Surface Protection Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU4GNSG..._sF1kDbGJYF1F1
Now, that is a nice barrel vise!



But, I'm too cheap and besides, I'd like to do the job today. Maybe I'll locate some sort of leather to protect the barrel...


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Old 07-14-2019, 9:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beanz2 View Post
I'll get some Mylar tape from Home Depot (my new favorite store now) and use the aluminum vise jaws.
Even better than mylar is plain paper.
Wrap a single non-overlapping layer around the barrel and use the aluminum blocks.
Make the vise as tight as you can.
Then get it tighter.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:31 AM
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I would heat it up again. Hot. But outside. Not in the vise.
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:26 AM
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I gave up for now. I tightened aluminum barrel clamps with a 2' lead pipe extension on the vise handle and again heated it up until the CLP on the barrel was smoking. The barrel still spun. It's still too hot to touch to see if Randall's paper suggestion protected the barrel. I'll find out after lunch.

I wonder if the barrel where I clamped has a taper that I can't see, such that the clamped part is actually a very narrow portion. I'll mike it after lunch. If that is not the case, I'm sending the upper back to Larue to have the brake removed.

I'm too much of a klutz to try to clamp a smoking hot barrel in a vise, so am afraid to try your suggestion, baih777


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Old 07-14-2019, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beanz2 View Post
Now, that is a nice barrel vise!



But, I'm too cheap and besides, I'd like to do the job today. Maybe I'll locate some sort of leather to protect the barrel...


.
It’s been well worth the purchase for me, haven’t had an issue since buying. Good luck!
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Old 07-14-2019, 4:12 PM
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I guess the entire barrel tapers from the barrel nut to the muzzle end, so when I try to cinch it down at any spot, only the parts of the vise jaw closest to the nut is biting.

Looks like either I have to invest in a dedicated barrel vise like AIHO1966 posted above, or I'll have to have a real gunsmith do this for me.


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Old 07-14-2019, 4:27 PM
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Beanz, if you're in the bay area and really want to use a reaction rod this weekend, you can borrow mine just send me a PM. However yours sounds more difficult than your typical case...
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Old 07-14-2019, 4:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Even better than mylar is plain paper.
Wrap a single non-overlapping layer around the barrel and use the aluminum blocks.
Make the vise as tight as you can.
Then get it tighter.
This is how I clamp barrels after trying many ways that just didn't hold.

When you really have to apply some torque, I use a high-quality piece of stationary as the rag-fiber isn't as "slippery" as cheaper white notebook paper. The aluminum jaws very likely will leave some marks, especially if the barrel is parked.

I have good luck removing aluminum smears from park using a fine brass-bristle brush. Once the aluminum is gone, I use household ammonia to remove the brass residue from the park, leaving no evidence of work having been done.
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Old 07-14-2019, 4:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradecraft View Post
Beanz, if you're in the bay area and really want to use a reaction rod this weekend, you can borrow mine just send me a PM. However yours sounds more difficult than your typical case...
Thanks for the offer, but with the way this weekend is going, the barrel extension would come off before the muzzle brake LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoHeavyHitter View Post
This is how I clamp barrels after trying many ways that just didn't hold.

When you really have to apply some torque, I use a high-quality piece of stationary as the rag-fiber isn't as "slippery" as cheaper white notebook paper. The aluminum jaws very likely will leave some marks, especially if the barrel is parked.

I have good luck removing aluminum smears from park using a fine brass-bristle brush. Once the aluminum is gone, I use household ammonia to remove the brass residue from the park, leaving no evidence of work having been done.
I used some package wrapping paper that I thought was sturdy, but not aware my barrel had a taper, the aluminum jaws still broke through the paper at the parts closest to the barrel nut and left large marks that at first I thought was bare barrel metal Only when my cold blueing did not take I realized it was aluminum. A vigorous scrubbing with some 3M pot scrubber got rid of all that and the barrel underneath was pristine!

As my mother used to say, quit while you're ahead. So I did


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Old 07-14-2019, 4:59 PM
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When I didn’t have a vice and needed to get a flash hider off an AR upper, I used wood and fasteners I had lying around. Took 2 pieces of 2x4, screwed them together, then used a slightly smaller diameter drill bit to drill a hole where the pieces of wood met. Add some masking tape to help prevent scratches and voilà!

0908392E-9C0E-4089-8F26-0685821BF506.jpg
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Old 07-14-2019, 5:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beanz2 View Post
I used some package wrapping paper that I thought was sturdy, but not aware my barrel had a taper, the aluminum jaws still broke through the paper at the parts closest to the barrel nut and left large marks that at first I thought was bare barrel metal Only when my cold blueing did not take I realized it was aluminum. A vigorous scrubbing with some 3M pot scrubber got rid of all that and the barrel underneath was pristine!
You know, I never tried using a pot scrubber.. I just used the brass brush since it was right there in the shop. Using a scrubber could essentially eliminate the step on using ammonia to go after the brass marks. Thanks for posting your method, I'll give it a whirl.
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Old 07-14-2019, 5:29 PM
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Can you post a few pics.
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2019, 6:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baih777 View Post
Can you post a few pics.
I wish I had taken pics

I was so wrapped up with getting it done (and end up didn't)


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Old 08-07-2019, 6:10 AM
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I've used this for installing/removing AR 15 brakes and barrels.
https://www.primaryarms.com/wheeler-...l-clamp-672286
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Old 08-07-2019, 6:55 AM
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Strips of leather works well to hold barrels in a vice...
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:42 PM
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I used the same method as black 306. Plus a cheap pair of leather gloves at the harbor freight and some scissors yields two large patches from the palm area. Very cost effective. WECSOG!
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Old 08-16-2019, 5:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Even better than mylar is plain paper.
Wrap a single non-overlapping layer around the barrel and use the aluminum blocks.
I know you wrote this a long time ago, but it's still true. It's a hint given to me by my friend Don, probably the finest machinist I've ever met. He's long gone now.

Often when I had a machining problem, I'd ask Don for advice. Eventually I learned that whatever challenges I encountered were the same challenges he encountered--except he knew how to control those challenges before they became challenges.

One day he imparted the wisdom of using a piece of paper in the vise jaws. It wasn't long until I had a problem of a piece walking out of my milling machine vise. I remembered what Don said, so I tore off a couple pieces, put them on the vise jaws, and my work stuck to the vise like it was welded in place.

Now it's SOP for me to have paper readily available at the mill. I use those scratch pads that the realtors drop off at the front door. Sometimes I even use the paper in the lathe chuck.
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Old 08-16-2019, 8:02 PM
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It wasn't long until I had a problem of a piece walking out of my milling machine vise. I remembered what Don said, so I tore off a couple pieces, put them on the vise jaws, and my work stuck to the vise like it was welded in place.
Using a piece of paper on something that is not parallel while clamping down in a quality vise will fill the gap to hold it.
If you need to do this often, there may be a problem with the vise your using or your machining practices or the machine itself.
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Old 08-16-2019, 8:09 PM
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What size/ type wrench are you using on the brake?

Do you have enough leverage to break the brake free?


A smaller wrench is possibly going to transfer the torque to the upper

A larger - longer wrench smacked with a hammer can get enough torque to release the tension from crush washer or whatever was used to attach the brake
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Old 08-16-2019, 8:41 PM
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Put a wrench on it and smack the end of the wrench with a 2lb hammer. It'll come right off even if you are just holding it in your hands.
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Old 08-16-2019, 9:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Cuda View Post
Using a piece of paper on something that is not parallel while clamping down in a quality vise will fill the gap to hold it.
If you need to do this often, there may be a problem with the vise your using or your machining practices or the machine itself.
Um... thanks.
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Old 08-18-2019, 8:42 AM
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Quote:
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Strips of leather works well to hold barrels in a vice...
Leather is the traditional gripper in a barrel vise. A little rosin powder can help.
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