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  #1  
Old 11-27-2019, 11:57 AM
jerdog3 jerdog3 is offline
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Default GP100 Blued vs Stainless (Alloy Steel vs Stainless Steel)?

I like to ask a real gunsmith when a youtube gunsmith says something that I don't understand. I just saw a very confusing youtube video where a guy was (I think) trying to make the point that the Blued GP100 is "stronger" than the Stainless. The steel used is stronger. I know it's cheaper, and looks don't matter to me, so is there any reason other than money and looks, that you would say one is better than the other?
Thank you!
Jeremy
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2019, 1:03 PM
kcstott kcstott is offline
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"Stronger" is correct 4140 if heat treated to full strength will be stronger than 416 stainless.

The issue is will you ever realize any benefit? Nope.

For traditional stuff I like blued, color case, or french gray and highly figured wood.
For everything else I want stainless and polymer.
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Old 11-27-2019, 1:10 PM
jerdog3 jerdog3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcstott View Post
"Stronger" is correct 4140 if heat treated to full strength will be stronger than 416 stainless.

The issue is will you ever realize any benefit? Nope.

For traditional stuff I like blued, color case, or french gray and highly figured wood.
For everything else I want stainless and polymer.
Really good point. I don't think I'll be feeding the GP100 anything that would demand the "strongest" version, when everyone says the Stainless is amazingly strong. "Like a tank" everyone says.

So maybe it will come down to looks and money? Haha.
Thank you! KC!
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Old 11-27-2019, 1:14 PM
creampuff creampuff is offline
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True, blue steel might be stronger than stainless steel, but with a GP100 does it really matter? I'm sure if I drop either one on my toes, I'll probably break a bone.

I'm sure my 4" stainless GP100 can double as a hammer in my garage.
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Old 11-27-2019, 4:14 PM
jerdog3 jerdog3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
True, blue steel might be stronger than stainless steel, but with a GP100 does it really matter? I'm sure if I drop either one on my toes, I'll probably break a bone.

I'm sure my 4" stainless GP100 can double as a hammer in my garage.
Haha! Thanks!
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2019, 3:54 PM
kcstott kcstott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerdog3 View Post
Really good point. I don't think I'll be feeding the GP100 anything that would demand the "strongest" version, when everyone says the Stainless is amazingly strong. "Like a tank" everyone says.

So maybe it will come down to looks and money? Haha.
Thank you! KC!
Well what I meant by not realizing any benefit is that Unless you are trying to destroy your gun anything you feed it will not hurt either a carbon or stainless pistol. The difference in strength at full hardness is about 20,000 psi off the top of my head. But we are talking a yield strengths in the 150,000 psi range.
So you’ll be shooting ammo at the absolute max of 35-40,000 psi range it don’t matter stainless or carbon.

Stainless is far easier to clean and maintain as compared to carbon steel. Just depends on your intended use and how good you are at keeping your stuff cleaned and oiled.

Last edited by kcstott; 11-28-2019 at 3:59 PM..
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Old 11-28-2019, 4:02 PM
kcstott kcstott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
True, blue steel might be stronger than stainless steel, but with a GP100 does it really matter? I'm sure if I drop either one on my toes, I'll probably break a bone.

I'm sure my 4" stainless GP100 can double as a hammer in my garage.
This is true as well stainless is slightly more dense than carbon steel. Well at least 416 is. Someone will come along and say alloy xxxx of carbon steel is more dense than alloy xxx stainless.
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Old 11-29-2019, 5:13 AM
jerdog3 jerdog3 is offline
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Thank you guys! That's why I bring these questions to the gunsmith forum. You guys know what you're talking about!
Thanks again!
jerdog3
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Old 11-29-2019, 5:17 AM
kcstott kcstott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerdog3 View Post
Thank you guys! That's why I bring these questions to the gunsmith forum. You guys know what you're talking about!
Thanks again!
jerdog3
Be advised as well the current 38 special and +P is pretty much equal to 357 mag out of shorter barrels. You don't see a benefit from running 357 until you have 6", 8" barrels.
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Old 11-30-2019, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcstott View Post
Be advised as well the current 38 special and +P is pretty much equal to 357 mag out of shorter barrels. You don't see a benefit from running 357 until you have 6", 8" barrels.
That's great info! Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 12-07-2019, 12:31 PM
LkPillsburyDude LkPillsburyDude is offline
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I'll tell ya what. My blued 4"gp100 with holster wear looked WAY better than my 6" stainless. Of course personal preference.
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  #12  
Old 12-08-2019, 12:28 AM
jerdog3 jerdog3 is offline
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Originally Posted by LkPillsburyDude View Post
I'll tell ya what. My blued 4"gp100 with holster wear looked WAY better than my 6" stainless. Of course personal preference.
I agree. I don't know why, but I really think blued guns look better.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2019, 2:36 PM
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Bobshouse Bobshouse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerdog3 View Post
I agree. I don't know why, but I really think blued guns look better.
Oh, they do...until you get that first little scratch. I don't care which is harder, they both get scratches.
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Old 12-09-2019, 4:50 PM
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jimmykan jimmykan is offline
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Does anyone know what grades of steel Ruger uses for blued and stainless GP100s, respectively?
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Old 12-10-2019, 12:01 PM
kcstott kcstott is offline
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Originally Posted by jimmykan View Post
Does anyone know what grades of steel Ruger uses for blued and stainless GP100s, respectively?
All firearms that have steel barrel and receiver components are made from 4130,4140,4340 and 8620 in carbon steel, and 416R in stainless there are a few exceptions but that is the industry standard. one exception is the bolts of AR's they are either Carpenter 158 or 9310

Last edited by kcstott; 12-12-2019 at 6:52 PM..
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