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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles |
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#1
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(Fixed!) 1022 will not chamber rounds after cleaning/barrel removal
3/29 update: Staying home tonight because im sick. As for the gun, Turns out somehow i must have hit the barrel where its thinnest (where the extractor sits) while removing it. The barrel seemed almost like an oval on that side. I used brownells rimfire chamber tool, gave it a few spins and put her back together. Now she chambers rounds perfectly. I will take her out asap once I stop feeling sick.
I cleaned my 1022 this weekend as well as removed the barrel for the first time. When I pull the charging handle back and release, the cartridge gets stuck angled upwards between the bolt and barrel. It's like the cartridge is at too much of an angle and cannot be chambered. I've used a few different cartridges from a few different brands and its the same story. At first I thought I did not click the bolt into the handle, but I took it apart, and back together again and still the same thing. I did remove the barrel for the first time and it was a B. I used a punch inside the receiver to knock it free, with a piece of wood to bang against the barrel itself. After a few whacks to start it off, I switched to using the bolt to knock it out some more and got it off. The gun does not have any signs of damage from what I can tell. The barrel is aligned as well as I could align it by eye. Could use some help... Last edited by davefromca; 07-31-2015 at 1:21 PM.. |
#3
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Did it work right before you took it apart?
Are you using the original Ruger 10 round magazine?
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#5
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Is the barrel all the way into the receiver?
Is the mag catch (rear) working right?
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#7
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Did you make sure the extractor lined up properly with the groove in the receiver?
I think it's the extractor, I just remember something on the bolt has to be lined up properly or there can be feeding issues. Last edited by Mizouse; 03-10-2014 at 12:13 PM.. |
#8
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I thought I did line those up, it looked like it did but could be off. I will check it.
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#12
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When you used your bolt to drive the barrel out, what method did you use?
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I don't always aim. But when I do, I aim to misbehave. |
#13
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If the rear of the case will not rise all the way up, I would check the following:
- Is the extractor in correctly or is it possibly damaged or bent? - Is the firing pin retracting fully? Correct: There must be room under the extractor hook tip for the case to slide up under it.
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#14
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Thanks guys, the bolt was absolutely filthy and gunked up so I gave it a good cleaning and hit it with a pick, but I didnt take it apart or anything. I'll try the suggested and report back.
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#17
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You used a punch and the bolt to hammer the barrel out of the receiver?
I'm looking for a photo of the barrel face where you applied all that pressure to see if you buggered up the edge of the chamber.
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#18
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The only problem with that theory is the barrel was on extremely tight before I removed it. I'm not the strongest guy in the world but it took a lot of strength and patience to get that b off.
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#19
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Here is the barrel. I used a rubber mallet, punch, and a little piece of wood in between the barrel and punch to knock it free. I didn't want to use a punch, but I had tried all the methods in read about and that thing just would absolutly not budge.
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#22
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You've definitely dry-fired that rifle a few times! I'm actually interested in the fit of that bbl. It should not be tough to get out. Its a slip-fit, and I've never had one that was hard to pull out when the v-block is removed. Something's not right, there.
Last edited by AceGirlsHusband; 03-11-2014 at 7:30 AM.. |
#23
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Appeal to a member in your area who knows the 10/22 inside and out to check-out your rifle.
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#24
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now I could be wrong, as I no longer have a stock 10/22 to compare it to, but looks like your bolt is not all the way back unless you are holding it short in the pictures.
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#25
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Take it apart and put it back together again. If that doesn't work, find someone local to help. I'm in TO if you want to drive that far.
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NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun and Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor California DOJ Certified Fingerprint Roller Ventura County approved CCW Instructor Utah CCW Instructor Offering low cost multi state CCW, private basic shooting and reloading classes for calgunners. CCW SAFE MEMBERSHIPS HERE KM6WLV |
#26
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The alignment of the extractor (on the bolt) to the groove in the barrel is critical. When inserting the barrel and before tightening the V block the barrel will rotate from one side of the groove to the other. The key is to center it.
The fact that you had to strike the barrel face out is not unusual and unless you impacted the extractor(bolt) in that process, shouldn't be of concern. Some are tight! Expansion and contraction via heat and cold will usually allow a tight fit to cooperate. When torquing your v block screws remember 15-20 in lbs ..NO more or the aluminum block threads can become stripped. From what I'm hearing your alignment of the extractor to the barrel slot is not centered. With the V block screws out but the barrel and bolt engaged rotate the barrel so you feeling the extractor touch one side of the barrel slot then rotate the other way to touch the other side.....then find the center or as close as you can. Then reinstall (tighten) the V block /screws, being careful not to move the alignment. The alignment isn't accomplished bye "eye" but by "feel" If it's truly centered and continues to not function then I'd replace the extractor or at least reinstall it. The variables in this case aren't many! Let us know! Last edited by Yoteman; 03-11-2014 at 9:12 AM.. |
#27
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It's hard to tell...it looks like the chamber mouth may be peened over a little by the extractor groove.
Take a countersink bit (or a large diameter drill bit) and using hand pressure only, twist the bit so the edge of the chamber has as very slight chamfer all the way around. Bolt and extractor look OK. If you head down this way, I can look at it for you. I would stay away from CSA, I heard his TO place has a basement.
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#28
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Quote:
Like I said, those v block screws were on VERY tight, definitely WAY more then 15-20 lb ft. It was hard to tell because they are small and in a tight spot, but Id honestly say they were closer to 40 lb ft, it felt like trying to break a lug nut loose on a pick up truck. After I finally got the screws off, it was time to take the barrel out. Once again, from my readings this apparently is not super hard. I took my time, was patient, took a total of 2.5 hours just to get the damn barrel to slide out. I really did not want to whack it like I did but I had tried everything I had read about up to that point and the punch was the only thing that got it started. When I first cleaned this gun, all of the pins were in very tight as well. I was reading about punching them out, and a lot of people reported having to use very little, to no force to drift the pins out of the trigger and bolt stop. I had to give these pins several good whacks to get them out, however now they come out just fine. I don't want to say I necessarily have a defective rifle, just maybe when mine was built the calibrations were set to very tight. Last edited by davefromca; 03-11-2014 at 9:40 AM.. |
#29
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Your gun is fine!
Don't give Ruger too much credit for tolerances as this is a mass produced gun which many believe is rougher now than say one from 15-20 yrs ago. I have several of these guns. Some with bolt stop pins and trigger guard pins that seemed to be fused in there while others fall out. Your issue should be something relatively easy/ simple. If for some reason your gun IS a freak of nature, Ruger will stand by it and you 100% You're far from that point currently! Hang in there! |
#32
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Quote:
No im jk, I stand corrected |
#33
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updated with pix
I went over the inside of the barrel with a pick, just a gentle feeling and couldnt tell if there was any real damage. Last edited by davefromca; 03-26-2014 at 10:43 AM.. |
#34
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Can you manually insert a round into the chamber, and does it go in easily and seat fully? If not, looks like you may have peened the barrels chamber mouth by beating it out of the receiver. The solution to that would be to open the chamber mouth up again with the appropriate reamer. I have built many custom 10-22's up from scratch, and I don't ever remove the barrels once they are built, there is no reason to do it. Also, make sure the barrel is "clocked" correctly, so the extractor groove lines up with the extractor. Tighten the vee block bolts finger tight only, 10 inch pounds is correct. Good luck. Rimfire Central is a great place to help you understand your rimfire of any type.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
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Bob B. (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#36
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In the future, im not going to remove it lol
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#37
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pull the bolt and see if you can fit a round under the extractor - which will help to eliminate any suspicion there. if you have no problems there with that, then the issue it going to be with the barrel alignment.
random thought... any chance the magazine is not seating properly or is damaged/dirty, have you tried more than one? |
#38
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#39
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Had a gun shop look at it...dude had no idea. He did note the tolerances were very tight. He was suprised at how hard it was to drift the pins out, and he couldnt take barrel off. He suggested i call ruger, said he'd never seen a 1022 with such tight tolerances.
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