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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#1
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Old buttstock pad looks like a dog nose
Do people sand these till they’re even?
Or add oil to rehydrate the rubber? It looks ever so slightly larger than the end of the stock. It’s from the 60’s or 80’s I’m thinking 60’s.. Besides restoring it what is a good replacement? Last edited by Q; 08-28-2023 at 9:42 PM.. |
#3
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Pachmayr still makes the reddish brown pads, best way is grind to fit. If you can't do it take to a competent smith who can.
http://www.pachmayr.com/home/
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Bob B. (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#5
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Sorry but the only way to fix it is to replace it.. |
#6
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It looks like a eraser from a old school pencil under the dog nose texture.
Well I haven’t tried it out so maybe it will still work as a recoil buffer. I can’t believe I got a pm from a guy the would charge me $65 labor to change the pad. I’m no gunsmith and not very handy with tools but man I would hope I could change a buttstock pad myself. Or find a YouTube vid on how to install a new one and fit it. I’ve put spare tires on cars before I figure that is more work than changing a recoil pad. |
#7
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The replacement pad will normally be oversized and has to be ground to fit. Watch the video here: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod44670.aspx
__________________
Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#8
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$65 is on the low end of going rate. The same amount of time spent on this type work (assuming it is done properly), applied to your car or a plumber would run over $250. By all means, try it yourself...
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#9
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Well that’s nuts. $250. Well I’ve never seen the guys handle before so maybe he is really good at it I didn’t look him up at all but anyway I most likely would try this myself if I get around to it.
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#10
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Nobody gets $250 for pad installs. The average is $85 to $125 for the labor. The time, skill, and knowledge it takes brings more $$ in other trades. Some folks scream like gut-shot leopards when they pay a guy to work on something that could very well blow up in their face if done incorrectly, but wont bat an eye paying huge bucks for some bling bling foot pegs for a Harley made from 1018 bar stock by a high school kid in the back, and pimp shined with some chrome.
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#11
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The video at Brownells shows the pinnacle method, and should be done on high end guns by experienced personnel with the proper tools.
If this is not a high end gun, you can mount the new buttpad, scribe a line around it where it meets the stock, remove the buttpad, then go to work with whatever tools you have to get the material removed to the line as clean and close as possible. Then mount, check, unmount and trim. Rinse and repeat as necessary. For final trim you can mount the pad, wrap the stock with tape then carefully use a sanding drum on a dremel. You may not have to do that though if your earlier trimming was good. Then remove the buttpad and polish it before final mounting. Last edited by SkyHawk; 10-13-2019 at 9:25 AM.. |
#12
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Since you are in LA, call Martin B. Retting in Culver City and see if they do it, or if not who they know in the area that can. Their reputation is beyond reproach.
I would expect to pay around $120 with the pad included for a good job.
__________________
Bob B. (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#13
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It's way faster than the cheaper methods you mention and it generally comes out better.
__________________
Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#14
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That pendulum sanding jig is pretty cool. I was watching a iv888888 vid of the same thing because the brownell vid wouldn’t load on my viewer.
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When I had to wait there for the ppts I’d always see old people bringing guns to sell to the shop. Sometimes I trade up like sell two crappy ones to buy a good one or trade down like man this thing is to expensive a cheaper thing is just as good. This one is a pretty cool European gun but wasn’t expensive. I doubt I will shoot it much. I just got it because I think it’s cool and interesting and there doesn’t seem to be that many. |
#15
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Every gun deserves the good treatment, but on a high end gun nothing less than the best (your method) should be considered. Some guns can get away with less if the best isn’t available or costs more than the gun is worth. If I ever get a nice shotgun that needs new rubber, I will send it down to you. I promise that I wont bust out the Dremel on a Krieghoff, or anyones gun but my own (I only work on my own guns anyhow). I do think you need to change that rubber, nothing authentic about it if the gun isn’t a collectable or once owned by someone famous. Last edited by SkyHawk; 10-13-2019 at 5:56 PM.. |
#16
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It appears to work fine I don’t think I’ll mess with it.
I was looking at those slip on limbsavers from a Hickok vid way back in the day. That’s a pretty good option for metal and plastic plates and such.. |
#17
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If you absolutely need it to look original, get an original style pad
If not, get a pad to your liking. Solid rubber is good but there are pads that absorb more recoil. Tons of options that can be fit to the firearm.
__________________
Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs) Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT (thanks to Jeff Cooper) Last edited by hermosabeach; 10-13-2019 at 9:27 PM.. |
#18
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https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...prod22493.aspx
https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...-prod9749.aspx https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...prod18220.aspx
__________________
Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs) Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT (thanks to Jeff Cooper) |
#19
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But you do as you like, you'll find out one way or the other. |
#20
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The exterior is dry and the interior is like its melting.
Pick up two boyds a classic for 30 and a at one for 80. That’s why replacing a pad seems really expensive. The classic feels way better but the at one is pretty cool. |
#21
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Like I tell people. I don’t get paid for what I do. I get paid for what I know. I fit my first pad 30 years ago. Last edited by kcstott; 10-14-2019 at 4:50 PM.. |
#23
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Better comes from experience What irritated a lot here is how you valued someone's work based on the value of the gun. I used to get this from a few Mosin owners that just couldn't figure out why i would not negotiate because it's just a "$80" gun I get that you "think" $65 is expensive to install a pad with what you "think" is just two screws. Wait till you try to sand rubber. Hope to god you bought something made of Limbsaver material as the learning curve is quite steep. Noting gets a point across like a steep learning curve. Kickeez are only mildly easier but require a different technique all together. Where as a Pachmayr is the easiest for me. Watch some videos on how a real shop does it. then go look at some nice guns to see what it takes to finish them nice. Yeah I know you don't care about nice, just a decent fit, but seeing what a crap, decent, and top notch finish is will show you why $65 is dirt cheep. |
#25
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