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  #1  
Old 10-11-2019, 7:43 PM
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Default Old buttstock pad looks like a dog nose

Do people sand these till they’re even?
Or add oil to rehydrate the rubber?

It looks ever so slightly larger than the end of the stock.
It’s from the 60’s or 80’s I’m thinking 60’s..

Besides restoring it what is a good replacement?

Last edited by Q; 08-28-2023 at 9:42 PM..
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2019, 8:31 PM
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some times you can file or belt sand them to get to some fresh rubber
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Old 10-11-2019, 8:34 PM
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Pachmayr still makes the reddish brown pads, best way is grind to fit. If you can't do it take to a competent smith who can.

http://www.pachmayr.com/home/
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2019, 12:17 AM
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The old English pachmayr looks pretty good.
I’ll try to restore this one first if I do if it really starts to fall apart in pieces I’ll look into a replacement.
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Old 10-12-2019, 5:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post
The old English pachmayr looks pretty good.
I’ll try to restore this one first if I do if it really starts to fall apart in pieces I’ll look into a replacement.
You can’t restore it. That’s a break down in the rubber. You can sand or file it down till it looks good but in reality all you did was waste your time. The rubber under the surface is just as old.

Sorry but the only way to fix it is to replace it..
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Old 10-12-2019, 7:02 PM
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It looks like a eraser from a old school pencil under the dog nose texture.
Well I haven’t tried it out so maybe it will still work as a recoil buffer.

I can’t believe I got a pm from a guy the would charge me $65 labor to change the pad. I’m no gunsmith and not very handy with tools but man I would hope I could change a buttstock pad myself. Or find a YouTube vid on how to install a new one and fit it. I’ve put spare tires on cars before I figure that is more work than changing a recoil pad.
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Old 10-12-2019, 7:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post
I can’t believe I got a pm from a guy the would charge me $65 labor to change the pad.
I’m no gunsmith and not very handy with tools but man I would hope I could change a buttstock pad myself.
Or find a YouTube vid on how to install a new one and fit it.
I’ve put spare tires on cars before I figure that is more work than changing a recoil pad.
It's not just a couple screws...
The replacement pad will normally be oversized and has to be ground to fit.
Watch the video here:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod44670.aspx
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2019, 9:11 PM
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$65 is on the low end of going rate. The same amount of time spent on this type work (assuming it is done properly), applied to your car or a plumber would run over $250. By all means, try it yourself...
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:23 PM
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Well that’s nuts. $250. Well I’ve never seen the guys handle before so maybe he is really good at it I didn’t look him up at all but anyway I most likely would try this myself if I get around to it.
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:31 PM
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Nobody gets $250 for pad installs. The average is $85 to $125 for the labor. The time, skill, and knowledge it takes brings more $$ in other trades. Some folks scream like gut-shot leopards when they pay a guy to work on something that could very well blow up in their face if done incorrectly, but wont bat an eye paying huge bucks for some bling bling foot pegs for a Harley made from 1018 bar stock by a high school kid in the back, and pimp shined with some chrome.
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Old 10-13-2019, 9:19 AM
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The video at Brownells shows the pinnacle method, and should be done on high end guns by experienced personnel with the proper tools.

If this is not a high end gun, you can mount the new buttpad, scribe a line around it where it meets the stock, remove the buttpad, then go to work with whatever tools you have to get the material removed to the line as clean and close as possible. Then mount, check, unmount and trim. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

For final trim you can mount the pad, wrap the stock with tape then carefully use a sanding drum on a dremel. You may not have to do that though if your earlier trimming was good. Then remove the buttpad and polish it before final mounting.
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Last edited by SkyHawk; 10-13-2019 at 9:25 AM..
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Old 10-13-2019, 9:33 AM
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Since you are in LA, call Martin B. Retting in Culver City and see if they do it, or if not who they know in the area that can. Their reputation is beyond reproach.
I would expect to pay around $120 with the pad included for a good job.
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2019, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyHawk View Post
The video at Brownells shows the pinnacle method, and should be done on high end guns by experienced personnel with the proper tools.
That's how I do them.
It's way faster than the cheaper methods you mention and it generally comes out better.
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Old 10-13-2019, 3:40 PM
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That pendulum sanding jig is pretty cool. I was watching a iv888888 vid of the same thing because the brownell vid wouldn’t load on my viewer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyHawk View Post
The video at Brownells shows the pinnacle method, and should be done on high end guns by experienced personnel with the proper tools.

If this is not a high end gun, you can mount the new buttpad, scribe a line around it where it meets the stock, remove the buttpad, then go to work with whatever tools you have to get the material removed to the line as clean and close as possible. Then mount, check, unmount and trim. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

For final trim you can mount the pad, wrap the stock with tape then carefully use a sanding drum on a dremel. You may not have to do that though if your earlier trimming was good. Then remove the buttpad and polish it before final mounting.
It’s not a high end gun just a old one. Everything else on it looks great. So maybe the rubber made at the time is why it looks like it does. Maybe it’s worth more being authentic and not replaced. I don’t know..


Quote:
Originally Posted by 'ol shooter View Post
Since you are in LA, call Martin B. Retting in Culver City and see if they do it, or if not who they know in the area that can. Their reputation is beyond reproach.
I would expect to pay around $120 with the pad included for a good job.
I like the store, I’ve been asked twice to ppt some cool rifles I had there it was always busy when they asked me to go. Then one time I went to buy a old rifle when it wasn’t busy at all and a old guy I hadn’t seen before popped out from the side and chatted a little about the rifle. Maybe that was mr retting I don’t know.
When I had to wait there for the ppts I’d always see old people bringing guns to sell to the shop.

Sometimes I trade up like sell two crappy ones to buy a good one or trade down like man this thing is to expensive a cheaper thing is just as good.

This one is a pretty cool European gun but wasn’t expensive. I doubt I will shoot it much. I just got it because I think it’s cool and interesting and there doesn’t seem to be that many.
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2019, 5:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
That's how I do them.
It's way faster than the cheaper methods you mention and it generally comes out better.
If I had the tools that is how I would do them too, no matter how cheap or expensive the gun

Every gun deserves the good treatment, but on a high end gun nothing less than the best (your method) should be considered. Some guns can get away with less if the best isn’t available or costs more than the gun is worth.

If I ever get a nice shotgun that needs new rubber, I will send it down to you. I promise that I wont bust out the Dremel on a Krieghoff, or anyones gun but my own (I only work on my own guns anyhow).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post

It’s not a high end gun just a old one. Everything else on it looks great. So maybe the rubber made at the time is why it looks like it does. Maybe it’s worth more being authentic and not replaced. I don’t know..
I do think you need to change that rubber, nothing authentic about it if the gun isn’t a collectable or once owned by someone famous.
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Last edited by SkyHawk; 10-13-2019 at 5:56 PM..
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  #16  
Old 10-13-2019, 7:39 PM
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It appears to work fine I don’t think I’ll mess with it.
I was looking at those slip on limbsavers from a Hickok vid way back in the day. That’s a pretty good option for metal and plastic plates and such..
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  #17  
Old 10-13-2019, 9:24 PM
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If you absolutely need it to look original, get an original style pad

If not, get a pad to your liking.

Solid rubber is good but there are pads that absorb more recoil.

Tons of options that can be fit to the firearm.
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Last edited by hermosabeach; 10-13-2019 at 9:27 PM..
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Old 10-13-2019, 9:27 PM
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https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...prod22493.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...-prod9749.aspx


https://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...prod18220.aspx
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Old 10-14-2019, 2:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post
It appears to work fine I don’t think I’ll mess with it.
I was looking at those slip on limbsavers from a Hickok vid way back in the day. That’s a pretty good option for metal and plastic plates and such..
It's not how the rubber was made before. it's just old, Ozone breaks down a lot of different types of rubber. Just because you sanded off the outside and made it look better doesn't mean the pad is fine. It's aged and oxidized and will break down even faster now that you've exposed the core. whats happening is reversion and it's happening internally. it's not a surface condition. it's a break down of the polymer links into smaller chains and reverting back to latex. it's nothing you can stop or slow. Which is why I said the pad needs to be replaced.

But you do as you like, you'll find out one way or the other.
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Old 10-14-2019, 1:21 PM
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The exterior is dry and the interior is like its melting.
Pick up two boyds a classic for 30 and a at one for 80. That’s why replacing a pad seems really expensive. The classic feels way better but the at one is pretty cool.
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Old 10-14-2019, 2:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post
The exterior is dry and the interior is like its melting.
Pick up two boyds a classic for 30 and a at one for 80. That’s why replacing a pad seems really expensive. The classic feels way better but the at one is pretty cool.
Try your hand at grinding one. See if you can make it look like it didn’t get hit by a lawn mower.

Like I tell people. I don’t get paid for what I do. I get paid for what I know. I fit my first pad 30 years ago.

Last edited by kcstott; 10-14-2019 at 4:50 PM..
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Old 10-14-2019, 2:43 PM
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That sounded like a video I watched of a investment manager. lol!

Even though there are vids of how to do it. I’m sure from experience it can be done quicker or better.
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Old 10-15-2019, 3:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q View Post
That sounded like a video I watched of a investment manager. lol!

Even though there are vids of how to do it. I’m sure from experience it can be done quicker or better.
quicker comes from bigger more expensive tools
Better comes from experience

What irritated a lot here is how you valued someone's work based on the value of the gun. I used to get this from a few Mosin owners that just couldn't figure out why i would not negotiate because it's just a "$80" gun

I get that you "think" $65 is expensive to install a pad with what you "think" is just two screws.

Wait till you try to sand rubber. Hope to god you bought something made of Limbsaver material as the learning curve is quite steep. Noting gets a point across like a steep learning curve. Kickeez are only mildly easier but require a different technique all together. Where as a Pachmayr is the easiest for me.

Watch some videos on how a real shop does it. then go look at some nice guns to see what it takes to finish them nice. Yeah I know you don't care about nice, just a decent fit, but seeing what a crap, decent, and top notch finish is will show you why $65 is dirt cheep.
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Old 10-15-2019, 4:18 PM
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If anything I can now assess the value when buying a vintage stock if it has a nice recoil pad on it still.
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Old 10-20-2019, 3:28 PM
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Give Bob Day a call, he does great work on recoil pads.

http://americhoke.com
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