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Airguns, AirSoft and MilSim Air rifles and pistols, AirSoft and Mil Sim Discussion |
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#1
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First air rifle for rodents
Bought a Hatsan 95QE break barrel .177 w/ quattro trigger. Came with a store installed Centerpoint 4-16 scope w/ illuminated reticle. Seemed accurate at first, decided to put rifle in a sled & sight in at 35 yards. Things seemed to change after about 50 rounds. I group 5 shots & them POI changes- always higher. Right now, it’s shooting 6” high at 35 yards. I can’t keep spinning turrets, I will run out at some point. Is this scope a POS? I’m a Vortex guy & would like to upgrade to a Diamondback. Not really interested in illumination- this CP is a joke. Low light the illumination just washes out everything- either red or blue at any setting. I have about 150 rounds through barrel so far.
Here’s a few group examples at 35 yards. This is a 15 shot group- you can see the POI seems to be moving, even in a sled. 2nd 5 shot group is tighter. 3rd group starts tight & then goes to hell. This is 7 shots in a sled- note 4 are tight, one is high, 2 are off the entire target! I think I need to return this scope. |
#2
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Free scopes are worth every penny (as you are learning)...
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#5
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Most consider 500 rounds to be a proper break-in for an airgun before it begins to settle down as far as accuracy and precision.
Springer air rifles are very particular about how you hold and rest the rifle. You need to learn and perfect your "artillery hold." Every rifle is different. Once it's properly broken-in with bulk ammo, start to play with different ammo to find out what it likes to eat. Make sure the problem isn't your mount or your optic. That can mess with you in the worst ways. I've seen a whole bunch of mounts come assembled incorrectly from the Chinese factories. Springer air rifles are very hard on optics. Most scopes that come with air rifles are junk. Consider an air-gun rated upgrade. Something like a Nikon Prostaff Target EFR 3-9x40 is a good option. Good luck. I wouldn't be too worried at this point.
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#6
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First, if you do change the scope, a SPRINGER will destroy a scope that lived on your .308 deer rifle for a decade. However, a PCP air rifle will treat that scope very nicely. Springers just play differently with scopes so make sure if you do re-scope it that you pick a scope built for a springer air rifle.
Make sure that you’re using good quality pellets, ones that actually shoot well from your rifle. Some companies (Pyramid, Airguns of AZ, etc.) may have starter packs with a variety of brands to help you find what works best in your air rifle. When getting REALLY picky, consider weighing your pellets and sorting them in weight batches. Won’t make as much difference in minute of rodent but it does when punching paper. Read the reviews on the vendor sites. Beware of wind. Especially with lighter pellets, a mild crosswind can be brutal on your accuracy.
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NRA Certified Instructor: Basic Pistol Shooting |
#7
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I’m shooting
H&N Sport ball or domed I guess. Field Target Trophy 8.64 gr 7.5 J And H&N Sport HP Baracuda Hunter 10.34 gr 16 J Both made in Germany. Groupings are about the same- the HP’s seem to hit harder on squirrels. I can hear the thud when it hits home. I also tried some pointed cheap Beeman “all purpose” model 1239 my son gave me. They are noticeably longer & a lot less punch. They fit very tight in breech. No specs on can but internet search says 8.53 gr. I’m not comfortable shooting these in this rifle. Didn’t bother shooting a target for grouping with these. Only sent a couple down range. |
#8
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Shop that I bought gun from has several plastic tray assortments of different brand, style & weight pellets. Said I could take it home & try some out to find what my gun likes. Need to get scope change/ upgrade dialed in 1st- something is definitely amiss here. I’ll go in Sat morning & go from there.
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#9
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Okay, so if you're using a sled why are you also using the scope? If you use the sled at a target and get decent groups without moving anything, including the gun, then you have narrowed it down to pellets or scope. Keeping it in the sled without moving anything again with but with different pellets should prove which pellet the gun likes. Again, not looking through the scope, the scope means nothing at this point, you are just trying to get the best pellet.
Once that is established, then use the scope to confirm that it is in fact the scope being the issue. Right? |
#10
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Sled has everything to do with zero’ing the scope. Takes the shooter out of the equation. I wouldn’t call these decent groups- not when POI keeps shifting w/ no turret changes. Removed scope from gun after last post & shot iron sights in sled. Very nice groups. It’s the scope.
Last edited by Steves32; 06-06-2018 at 9:02 PM.. |
#11
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Ditto - also went from a POS NP to a Benjamin Maximus then to a .25 Marauder - ain't never buying a break-barrel again.
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#12
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I'd have to agree, if the gun is in a sled, it's not moving, so you have eliminated the scope for testing of the different pellets. But can you cock the gun in the sled without it moving at all?
My experience with different pellets is that it takes time and patience, but you will find one that consistently shoots the same groupings and hits plenty hard in your squirrels. I have the special edition NRA Gammo air rifle 1000 fps (https://www.americanrifleman.org/art...ecial-edition/) , which came with a nice 4x32 scope. The best ammo I found so far is the Beeman coated hollow point .177 Model 1230 (http://www.beeman.com/store/product....0879&pid=67279). I tried all sorts of fancy looking and pricey stuff, but these were the most consistent and not too expensive either. They fit tightly into the bore and don't move, once i push them into the barrel. I'm not saying they are the best and only, but they worked great in my gun. For a $200 gun, i'd say it's a great deal. I can hit everything perfectly at 50 yds. and routinely shoot out to 100 yds, now that I know how much drop I get (about 4") |
#13
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I'd almost put money on two issues:
1. the scope is being jerked back in the receiver, changing the mouting position. If there's a stop pin holding the mount, check to see if it's getting worn. If the back end of the mount is getting pushed up, then the front end is getting lowered a bit. This will cause you to shoot higher. If there's no stop pin, then I seriously doubt that your mount will be able to hold. Put a pencil mark from the mount to the receiver and from your scope to your rings. Something is probably shifting. 2. Your hold is changing. Remember that piston rifles are moving and bucking BEFORE the pellet leaves the barrel. Simply changing your hand position will change how the rifle recoils, affecting where the barrel is pointed before the pellet is on its way to the target. Don't use a sled. Master the artillery hold. A simple benchrest is fine but put your hand under the forend, hold it very loosely and don't let anything touch the barrel. Put your hand in exactly the same spot every time. Forget the idea of a cheek weld. Your face should barely touch on the stock -- just enough to control some movement and let you see your sights. Let the rifle buck and kick as much as it wants. Don't fight it. Keep your follow-through on the trigger. Rather than fighting the recoil, as you do with centerfire rifles, let it recoil freely but as consistently as you can. I won't use scopes on piston guns anymore. Scopes have gotten better at handling the recoil. But the pistons have gotten stronger while the metal in the receiver is still too weak to handle it all. Use a good artillery hold with the open sights and see if that doesn't cure things. |
#14
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Make sure that your scope mounts are tightened properly both at the scope and the receiver mounting dovetail. Also, ascertain that the screws holding the action to the stock are secure.
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#15
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Update.
Went back to store- replaced it with a UTG accushot 3-12 w/ ill reticle & new mount. Took home, torqued all screws, sighted in & sent 200 rounds on target w/ no shift. Happy ending. |
#16
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Quote:
So many rifle scopes fall apart from the reverse energy of piston air rifles.
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#17
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