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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun! |
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#1
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School me up on the K31
I saw a couple of these at a LGS on consignment for $330 and considering one as my first "on purpose" C&R purchase. I know next to nothing about them other than they look nice and I've seen first hand how accurate they are. I was wondering if I could get anyone to direct me to some K31 resources and give any personal opinions on them.
I know, not the greatest pictures, but I was in a rush. Last edited by Gutter; 09-07-2016 at 12:03 PM.. |
#2
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They are just about the coolest C&R rifle out there. I've only owned one (so far) but it made its impression.
Very well-built, extremely good accuracy, and very cool design. The 7.5x55 round is known for accuracy. Not cheap ammo, but I still see it for sale fairly regularly. There is a forum out there dedicated to Swiss pull-action rifles that I'm sure someone will link you to. |
#3
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Disclosure: don't know anything about the K31 really, other than a K31 or Finnish M39 is on my short list of C&R rifles right now. |
#4
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#5
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That counter looks like River City? K31s are well built and fairly accurate for most shooters. However, the Swiss and I don't see eye to eye and I can not shoot Swiss rifles. If and when you get it, take it to Sac Valley silhouette match next month on the 20th.
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#6
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Should have a new toy next time I head out to Sac Valley. |
#8
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There are a couple of great Swiss forum resources - one of them right here on CalGuns:
http://feeds.www.calguns.net/calgunf...d.php?t=528460 Also, here is the link to the official "Swiss Rifles forum" http://www.swissrifles.com/ And here is another good one: http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...ll-Rifle-Forum And one more - this is a reference table for corelating serial numbers to year of manufacture: http://theswissriflesdotcommessagebo...bers-and-dates Should get you going and give you plenty to absorb for starters! Great guns - and $330 is a very good price IMHO. Enjoy! |
#10
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don't forget to check under the butt plate for a soldier tag...
__________________
Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter. Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936 |
#12
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I'm thinking of buying one, so what's a decent price on:
K31 in Beech Wood:________? K31 in Walnut: _________?
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"The only thing necessary for the triumph [of evil] is for good men to do nothing." Edmund Burke speech of 23 April 1770, "Thoughts on the Cause of the Present Discontents," delivered to the House of Commons. |
#13
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Great price! it's an incredible rifle. I have one myself and my dad bought one when he was living in CH in the 70s. I grew up shooting it and it's an extremely accurate rifle. I bought the brownells kit to flatten the buttpad and added a limbsaver to it and it's really comfy to shoot now.
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[FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"]Your gun is as awesome as your wallet is fat. Same goes for your car's speed.[/FONT] |
#14
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i had one. they're absoluetly stunning, but i parted with it in a trade for a firearm that's less costly to feed. it was a classic case of "my poverty but not my will consents"; any other reason and i would not have done so
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SPC ret'd |
#16
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With GP11...1-2 MOA, With good handloads, maybe a bit better.
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...a fool and his money were lucky to get together in the first place... |
#17
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Steve is being conservative. Shooting them @ 100 yards would not do it justice. To the right pilot, they always do well at our monthly silhouette and long range matches up to 800 yards. The GP-11 is a fairly accurate ammo.
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#18
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I'm just trying to get a baseline on my rifles at 100 yards before extending them. At this point all 4 M39's shooting Russian Match ammo will outshoot my K31 with GP-11 or any commercial ammo I've tried (Hornaday SST, A-MAX, and BTSP, and PPU). I shoot from a bench with a scope to take the shooter out of the equation when testing rifles. The M39's generally shoot 1-1.5MOA with the match ammo and the K31 will shoot 1.5-2MOA but usually I get a flyer in a 5-shot group.
I was wondering how my K31 compares to other K31's in general to see if my rifle needs some work or not. |
#19
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Question on the 1.5 - 2 plus flyer . . .
What ammo are you using? GP11 or reloads? Quote:
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#20
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GP11 for now, but I've tried PPU Match and Hornaday 168gr A-Max with similar results.
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#21
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probably the rifle, at 100 yards all of my Swiss rifles (1911s, K31s & ZFK 55) with punch MOA from a rest.
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Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter. Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936 |
#23
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Check out accurizing at SwissRifleDot.com. Also do a search on receiver shims. There also is one proper way to tighten the screws; don't tighten in the wrong order.
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#24
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The K31 is really one of the best surplus rifles and any serious collector should have one. Unfortunately it leads to the "swiss flu" and they tend to multiply. I have about 9 K31's as well as the older long rifles and the K11.
A side note, I will be selling off about 4-5 of the K31's within the next 30 days here in Sacramento on Calguns. Im thinning my collection down and I've been selling off the Mosins first. They will be FTF cash and carry, so if you don't get one yet, watch the Marketplace here for them. |
#25
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Okay. So I set up my K31 according to swissrifles.com site and I'll tune the rear tang screw while I'm at the range. We'll see if it makes a difference.
Last edited by kouye; 04-03-2013 at 3:35 PM.. |
#26
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When playing with the tang screw is reducing your group size there is something wrong with the bedding at the front end of the receiver. To adjust the front end height of the receiver the Swiss use shims that come in four thickness sizes and they are inside the stock at the spot where the front receiver screw enters. Adjusting is done by taking out or adding shims. Remember that these rifles are 60 or more years old and so is the wood of the stocks, wood tends to work and deform over the years and that makes a re-adjustment pretty normal.
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Fight to your last cartridge, then fight with your bayonets. No surrender. Fight to the death. Gen. Henri Guisan, Switzerland, July '40 Swissrifles.com forum; http://theswissriflesdotcommessageboard.yuku.com/ Email: guisan-info@bluewin.ch Last edited by Guisan; 04-04-2013 at 5:04 AM.. |
#27
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I did something a bit different a few weeks ago. I put a 0.005" shim under the tang as the action rocked back a little when the screws were tightened down without it and the muzzle raised off of the front of the stock. With the shim, it was seated and the groups were better but still not what I was expecting. I tried a 0.010" shim and it did not improve and even got a little worse. Perhaps I'll try to work with the front shim instead. I have various thicknesses of brass I can try. BTW - This is what I was going to try. http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/pierre/accurizing.html Last edited by kouye; 04-04-2013 at 7:50 AM.. |
#28
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Ok. Sorry to hijack my Son's name and password, but he directed me to this one. Little time available for me right now so I'll make it short.
Guisan is right about that possibility. We've done this on a very large number of rifles as have many many other SRDC members without that happening. Can it happen? Of course. They're very old rifles, and metals can crystallize with time. Every rifle in the armoury has had this process performed, and the accuracy immediately improved. Two schools of thought. Drop the stock and look at the contact point. Your rifle.... your decision. P
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Latigo and P An'' ole' Brer' Rabbit...... he set in de bushes..... he watch an' he wait... lay low an' he don' say nuffin'. www.swissproductsusa.com Last edited by Latigo; 04-04-2013 at 9:35 AM.. |
#29
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It's simple in fact, take off both barrel bands and remove the hand guard, check if both screws are dead tight and simply fold a dollar bill under the barrel and pass it all the way through till the front sight. When that gives no complications you are ready for step two which is the upper handguard space but that is another story....
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Fight to your last cartridge, then fight with your bayonets. No surrender. Fight to the death. Gen. Henri Guisan, Switzerland, July '40 Swissrifles.com forum; http://theswissriflesdotcommessageboard.yuku.com/ Email: guisan-info@bluewin.ch |
#32
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School is in session:
Great rifles that shoot very well. On average the most accurate mil surplus rifle. Fun to shoot. Graff has ammo/brass for them. Price has gone up if that is a deal. I paid $99 for mine and it looks new. Look under buttplate to see if the guy issued the rifle put his info there on a piece of paper. Some did some did not. School dismissed so take it shooting.
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A 30cal will reach out and touch them. A 50cal will kick their butt. NRA Life Member, NRA certified RSO & Basic Pistol Instructor, Hunter, shooter, reloader SCI, Manteca Sportsmen Club, Coalinga Rifle Club, Escalon Sportsmans Club, Waterford Sportsman Club & NAHA Member, Madison Society member |
#33
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I like mine, but my shoulder does not. I keep wanting to fix my stock too. Not so far as to sand it down, but I'm torn between cleaning it and leaving it. Every time I think about cleaning it up everyone says it will diminish its value. Since it is wood and I feel like it should be re-sealed at some point to avoid it from drying out too much? Especially any areas where the the finish has worn off? Seems like im damned if I do and damned if I don't.
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#34
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Take a look at the other thread I posted about bringing home my K31. I was told that Howard Feed'N'Wax would do the trick and it did. The one I got is great, but the stock has a lot of "character" if you will. I hit it with some Murphy's to clean the surface grime off and then used the wax on it. It took out all the grime that could be removed sans heavy scrubbing, brought out the grain, and moisturized the wood. Preserved everything and cleaned it up a little bit.
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#35
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I was cleaning and reassembling the bolt for the first time yesterday and I noticed that the bolt seemed a little stiff/sticky when first being cocked. Is the K31 supposed to feel this way? I've only ever shot a few rounds out of a friend's 91/30, which was a bit smoother, and I'm assuming this is typical as this is compressing the spring on the pin (if I'm correct). Doing so again a second and third time yields no issues and is pretty smooth. The bolt is sufficiently lubed, but I want to make sure this is not a reassembly issue on my part. I think it's just me being a concerned father over a new gun, but I wanted to double check before I take it out and ruin something.
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#36
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Thanks for the info. Guisan!
Without a shim under the tang, when the screws are tightened down, the gap under the barrel at the muzzle was a bit more than needed for a dollar bill to slide under it. That's why I added the 0.005" shim under the tang and the gap was closed a bit. My theory was that the wood had been compressed at the tang due to overtightening of the tang screw over an extended period of time. What I'd like to try is putting a thinner shim at the front action screw, however, the thick metal shim there appears to be embedded into the wood as it won't come out without some amount of force. Is there an easy way to remove it? I also wanted to try shooting without a handguard in case it was touching somewhere other than at the muzzle. I had this happen with an M39 recently and it made a world of difference to sand down the high spot and only have it touch at the muzzle. Last edited by kouye; 04-06-2013 at 7:01 AM.. |
#37
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Stick a screwdriver blade through the hole under the shims to let these pop up to get the whole package out, take the most tin one out of the package and measure again.
__________________
Fight to your last cartridge, then fight with your bayonets. No surrender. Fight to the death. Gen. Henri Guisan, Switzerland, July '40 Swissrifles.com forum; http://theswissriflesdotcommessageboard.yuku.com/ Email: guisan-info@bluewin.ch |
#38
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There's only one think plate/shim that I can see, unless there's one under it.
Edit: Okay, so I replaced the action screw shim with one that is slightly thinner. I can now run a dollar bill under the barrel from the front edge of the rear sight to the front sight. I have the rear band only tight enough to keep it from slipping over the retaining spring. The front band is cinched down to about 5 in/lb. Last edited by kouye; 04-06-2013 at 2:43 PM.. |
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