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Optics, Mounts, Rails and Sights If it aims your firearm, post about it here. |
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#1
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AR15 eye relief
Mounting my first scope on an AR with a Burris PEPR. I'm mounting an SWFA 3-15x42 MRAD with a listed eye relief of 4.2" - 3.8".
http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-3-15x42-Tact...pe-P62238.aspx I'm a big guy (6'1") with a bigger noggin. I have an A2-length stock (Magpul MOE Rifle stock with extended buttpad). My natural cheek weld when I shoulder the rifle (sitting or standing) puts my nose just under three finger widths from the charging handle. Probably about two and a half finger widths. I'm finding that I get the best sight picture with the end of the eyepiece hanging over rail sections T1-T3 (no scope shadow or tunnel vision). This means that I need to set the PEPR all the way out to T9-T10. The front of the PEPR mount is actually clamped into the Troy rail. Is it normal to have an offset mount set this far forward on the receiver? Seems extremely far to me, but that's where I can consistently get a good, clear sight picture through the scope. Most mounted scopes I see on ARs usually have the eyepiece hanging over the charging handle. Attachment 295193 Last edited by Wombats Are Dangerous; 04-02-2018 at 7:11 PM.. |
#2
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I would think thats the reason for adding that rail on the free float. So you can set up your rifle to fit you. If it works it works.
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I support peace through superior firepower. "Para ser libre, un hombre debe tener tres cosas, la tierra, una educacion y un fusil. Siempre un fusil ! (To be free, a man must have three things; land, an education and a rifle. Always a rifle)" -Emiliano Zapata. |
#3
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Do not do that (bridge the handguard and receiver)
Best case scenario you will constantly loose zero. Worst case you can damage the mount and possibly optic (less likely with a single piece mount but still..) there are a few solutions but the easiest would probably be to adjust your technique and "square up" more to the rifle which will pull the optic further away from your face. |
#4
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I am in the same situation. I like to put my nose right up against the charging handle, but to get in the eyebox of my 3x9 Nikon, I would have to either bridge the free-float handguard + upper receiver, or mount complete on the free-float handguard.
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#5
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You need an extended mount. Something along the lines of a Larue LT139 would work great.
Oh, and I think your Raptor CH might be a fake. Can't tell from the photos but on a real Raptor, the handle on the forward assist side should be longer than the other. |
#6
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Quote:
The reason everyone generally recommends against bridging the gap is because uppers and rails generally do not match exactly. I am not talking about alignment, but width and thickness of the rail profiles are commonly different and this causes some weird issues with alignment, especially with QD mounts. |
#8
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tonyxcom, any other way to tell if the Raptor's a fake? I bought it from a reputable dealer (ArmsUnlimited.com) and the packaging looked legit.
I'll have to measure with calipers, but eyeballing the handles, the one on the right looks just slightly longer. It's not a significant difference. Could be the angle of the photo too. |
#9
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Quote:
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...=798879&page=2 http://jerkingthetrigger.com/2013/09...arging-handle/ |
#10
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Yikes! I had no idea!
I'll be checking my Raptor when I get home and making a return if it's fake. I'll also be notifying Rainer if it's fake and placing an order with them instead. I can't believe this BS. |
#11
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If you got it from AU you almost definitely got a fake. It's bad enough they sell copies of the RADDLOCK and Raptor, but they even have the nerve to label them as such. That is all kinds of low.
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#12
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Merc1138, I just read that whole Raddlock thread. That's just simply disturbing. It amazes me that a retailer could be so unrepentant despite the evidence available.
Thanks for pointing out that thread and keeping the community informed. |
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