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  #1  
Old 04-21-2018, 9:57 PM
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Default Need a better trigger on Springfield 1911 A-1 / .45

Need some info guys ...
I have an Almost new Springfield 1911 A-1 .45
and I hate the trigger on it
Keep pulling left

But

When I shoot the Kimber Custom II,, I'm right on ....

Thinking about trigger replacement ....................

Looking to get pointed in the right direction

What are my options ?.. Is it worth the hassle ?
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:25 PM
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Was the length of the trigger pad different?
Was the trigger feel different?

I discovered I shoot better with short 1911 triggers than with long ones.

Nothing wrong with replacing the trigger. Unless a trigger job is needed.
I dont know what makes you pull left with one and not the other.
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
Was the length of the trigger pad different?
Was the trigger feel different?

I discovered I shoot better with short 1911 triggers than with long ones.

Nothing wrong with replacing the trigger. Unless a trigger job is needed.
I dont know what makes you pull left with one and not the other.
Good Point .The trigger on the Kimber is almost 1/4 inch longer , measuring from edge of trigger guard

and the Kimber trigger is way smoother action / Less travel before it breaks
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:55 PM
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did u test the SA on bench? it could be sight issue.
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  #5  
Old 04-22-2018, 12:21 AM
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My milspec also pulls left.
Unless i barely put my first fingerpad on it
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Old 04-22-2018, 7:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dummykid View Post
did u test the SA on bench? it could be sight issue.
I thought that also.....
Borrowed a sight too and moved it over a touch ...... same thing
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  #7  
Old 04-22-2018, 7:35 AM
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I have the other problem on mine. The trigger is so good it sometimes strike the primers too light to fire.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2018, 8:02 AM
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You may just need to get the trigger cleaned up. A trigger job should do it to get the grittiness out. The sear, diconnector and hammer of your Springfield can be cleaned and polished up to a 3.5 lb trigger pull. If you’re keeping it for defensive purposes I advice not going lighter than 4 lbs.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eat Dirt View Post
Need some info guys ...
I have an Almost new Springfield 1911 A-1 .45
and I hate the trigger on it
Keep pulling left

But

When I shoot the Kimber Custom II,, I'm right on ....

Thinking about trigger replacement ....................

Looking to get pointed in the right direction

What are my options ?.. Is it worth the hassle ?
I have 2 KImber Custom IIs and the quality of the trigger pull out of the box borders on the perfect.

I bought a new American made Springfield Milspec last February and trigger pull is one of the worst. It is hard and gritty.

Things I've done to improve it:

A) Replaced the short black steel trigger with a long aluminum one that I have left over from a Colt 1991 that I sold away years ago.
B) Replaced the subpar quality disconnector with an EGW brand.
C) Replaced the stock low quality hammer and sear pin with a high quality EGW pins.
D) Polished the hammer sides.
E) Polished the frame trigger tracts.
F) Polished sear sides and trigger interface areas.
G) Applied Mother's brand car wax on all internals and polished with heavy cloth.

Still to be done: Replace the sorry looking, subpar hammer strut and pin with a better quality. Will also replace the stock sear and hammer later on. The Springfield, honestly is a fixer-upper. Not bashing the brand, just saying how my experience is.

I am not a gunsmith, but with the above things done, there was improvement on the trigger pull, BUT still not as good as the Kimbers. The Kimbers sear, disconnector, trigger tracts, and trigger shoes, hammer strut, are really that much better.
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2018, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DArBad View Post
I have 2 KImber Custom IIs and the quality of the trigger pull out of the box borders on the perfect.

I bought a new American made Springfield Milspec last February and trigger pull is one of the worst. It is hard and gritty.

Things I've done to improve it:

A) Replaced the short black steel trigger with a long aluminum one that I have left over from a Colt 1991 that I sold away years ago.
B) Replaced the subpar quality disconnector with an EGW brand.
C) Replaced the stock low quality hammer and sear pin with a high quality EGW pins.
D) Polished the hammer sides.
E) Polished the frame trigger tracts.
F) Polished sear sides and trigger interface areas.
G) Applied Mother's brand car wax on all internals and polished with heavy cloth.

Still to be done: Replace the sorry looking, subpar hammer strut and pin with a better quality. Will also replace the stock sear and hammer later on. The Springfield, honestly is a fixer-upper. Not bashing the brand, just saying how my experience is.

I am not a gunsmith, but with the above things done, there was improvement on the trigger pull, BUT still not as good as the Kimbers. The Kimbers sear, disconnector, trigger tracts, and trigger shoes, hammer strut, are really that much better.
The first place I would start with is a sear spring and replacing the mainspring housing assembly to eliminate the ILS.
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  #11  
Old 04-22-2018, 12:24 PM
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Yep^^^^^^, I've done those too, just didn't mention it, because, having done those first for MY gun, didn't have much discernible effect on the TRIGGER pull itself.

OP, mentioned that his TRIGGER is making him " push " his grouping to the LEFT. Anyway, for the benefit of the OP, its good YOU mentioned those too.
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2018, 12:31 PM
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Why replace the sear spring when you can tune it?
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2018, 12:33 PM
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Before anything else, shoot the gun left handed and see where the hits land.
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2018, 12:36 PM
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Springfield Armory has excellent customer service. I sent them my 1911 for a lighter trigger and a couple other things. They paid for the shipping both ways and didn't charge me a dime for the work. The trigger is great now. Contact them, send them the gun and they will take good care of you.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2018, 2:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eat Dirt View Post
Need some info guys ...
I have an Almost new Springfield 1911 A-1 .45
and I hate the trigger on it
Keep pulling left

But

When I shoot the Kimber Custom II,, I'm right on ....

Thinking about trigger replacement ....................

Looking to get pointed in the right direction

What are my options ?.. Is it worth the hassle ?
I had the exact opposite experience (pulling left with the stock long trigger). I replaced the stock trigger with a short trigger and it centered my shots right up.

I would replace the trigger with the length that works best for you. It's a simple job and triggers are pretty inexpensive. I really like the Harrison extreme triggers.

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/triggers-for-1911s
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  #16  
Old 04-22-2018, 4:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
Why replace the sear spring when you can tune it?
Redcliff, is very knowledgeable with 1911s. He probably meant the mainspring.
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2018, 4:32 PM
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Sounds like it just needs a good polish and tuning. Me personally I don't like the look of the SA triggers so I replace them with a STI or a Fusion. When I get a new used 1911 I completely disassemble it clean it and polish various contact points and parts. I also replace the trigger and mainspring (19#) and tune the sear spring.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2018, 5:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTROKS View Post
Redcliff, is very knowledgeable with 1911s. He probably meant the mainspring.
I meant no offense.

I would want to first really establish what it was that made the OP pull left. Even a ****ty 1911 trigger is worlds better than many other semi autos.

The OP didn't say it was harder to pull or anything. Just that it traveled more before break.

My initial thought was that it may be the difference of where the trigger shoe/pad sits in relation to the frame. I could be wrong here of course.

If the OP was closer, I could bring out a few different triggers for him to try (they are all used and could potentially drop in).

I also have a few different 1911s with different lengths triggers. He could try those to see if it is the size of the shoe/pad.
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2018, 5:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
Why replace the sear spring when you can tune it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTROKS View Post
Redcliff, is very knowledgeable with 1911s. He probably meant the mainspring.
Thank you for the kind words JTROKS, nice to see you still here

Not knowing how familiar a person is at tuning the sear spring, it seemed prudent to recommend they obtain a spare/better part for $7 (Wilson Combat bullet proof or one of the other quality sear springs out there) to learn on so they don't render their 1911 inoperable/unsafe as they have the original spring as a back-up and reference. The problem with the stock ILS mainspring assembly is the 30 lb short mainspring versus the 18-22 lb mainspring you typically can run with a standard mainspring housing and plunger. The two parts that most effect trigger pull weight are of course the sear spring and mainspring while the hammer and sear have the most effect on a crisp break.

Going back to the OP, its a bit unusual for a right handed shooter to push shots left with a short trigger, though more common with left handed shooters with larger hands. While I'd guess at least half of the 1911 owners would shoot a bit better with the short trigger (which is unfortunate as most 1911's come with long triggers), for the other half the long trigger is better. Cleaning up and lightening the trigger pull should help regardless and if the OP shoots better with a long trigger then I'm all in favor of his installing whatever makes him happy.
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Last edited by redcliff; 04-22-2018 at 5:32 PM..
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  #20  
Old 04-22-2018, 6:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauserguy View Post
I have the other problem on mine. The trigger is so good it sometimes strike the primers too light to fire.

Mauserguy


If itís a California Springfield or any other California compliant 1911 for that matter check that the firing pin isnít titanium. If it is change it out to a steel firing pin. Your light primer strikes should be gone after that.


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  #21  
Old 04-23-2018, 1:40 AM
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Go put about 200 rounds thru that Kimber you referred to. Don't worry. You will be pulling left on that trigger as well.

After the surprise break is no longer a surprise break, then all those little details about trigger control come right back. Lighten-up the trigger to one ounce trigger pull if you like. Accuracy still comes from trigger control.
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Old 04-23-2018, 4:52 AM
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Why does everyone insist on replacing the ILS? I have several guns with the ILS in tact that I’d be happy to let anyone try prior to spending/wasting the money replacing perfectly functional parts. All have world class triggers tuned to 3.25 pounds.

As mentioned before, you have to replace more than just the housing and spring to ensure perfect function, like the firing pin and spring. Some fitting may be required.

Also, “polishing” the sear/hammer interface is ill advised without the proper jig, stones and measuring devices. This is something best left to the pros.

You’re pulling left because the trigger is probably stacking before the break and has significant overtravel. you are pushing the gun down and left as a result. It’s also probably in the 5-6 pound range. A trigger job is worth paying for and should help. (Read as, send it to Brett, SACS, etc...)

Alternatively, buy $150 worth of tools, $150 worth of parts and do it yourself. Stone contact points, true and shorten hammer hooks, true and put a secondary angle on the sear, polish the disco, tune the sear spring (need a good trigger gauge and vice), fit and tune adjustable trigger.

You need a medium fine, fine fine and polishing stone, trigger track stone, sear jig, polishing compound and dremmel. Also, a good set of files, bench vice, various levels of sand paper and the new trigger. Probably want a new hammer, sear and disco. I’ve never had an issue with SAI a springs. An intimate knowledge of how all that stuff works is essential to the final product.

Last edited by Pupulepeter; 04-23-2018 at 4:58 AM..
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2018, 5:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hambam105 View Post
Go put about 200 rounds thru that Kimber you referred to. Don't worry. You will be pulling left on that trigger as well.

After the surprise break is no longer a surprise break, then all those little details about trigger control come right back. Lighten-up the trigger to one ounce trigger pull if you like. Accuracy still comes from trigger control.
Bingo. I just started shooting a CZ after a few years of exclusively shooting 1911s. I was shooting very high as a result. The trigger took some getting used to. A buddy who has only shot my well tuned guns tried a .22 and swore the sights were off, because he was shooting left. Same issue, heavier trigger. POA and POI were one and the same.
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Old 04-23-2018, 3:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pupulepeter View Post
As mentioned before, you have to replace more than just the housing and spring to ensure perfect function, like the firing pin and spring. Some fitting may be required.
So, if one were to replace the mainspring housing, use a 23# mainspring, retainer and cap to get rid of the ILS, what firing pin and spring would you recommend to work with the 23# mainspring?

I have a Springfield Mil Spec 1911...

Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2018, 6:17 PM
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Standard Colt spring. But I’d go with the Wolff extra power spring. Again, waste of money. None of that is necessary. YOMV
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Old 04-23-2018, 6:34 PM
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Buy a revolver and shoot it DA only. Once you build your booger hook strength up you will shoot just fine...
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Old 04-23-2018, 6:47 PM
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The term, 'Trigger Control', has a steep learning curve attached to it. For most people it takes a lot of practice and patience to learn or appreciate Trigger Control. But it only takes a millisecond to finally get it once you do get it.

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Old 04-23-2018, 6:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CifaldiPrecision View Post
If itís a California Springfield or any other California compliant 1911 for that matter check that the firing pin isnít titanium. If it is change it out to a steel firing pin. Your light primer strikes should be gone after that.


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isnt' titanium better than steel?
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  #29  
Old 04-23-2018, 7:12 PM
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Quote:
isnt' titanium better than steel?
That would depend on what it is you're asking it to do.
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Old 04-23-2018, 7:36 PM
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Default Need a better trigger on Springfield 1911 A-1 / .45

Quote:
Originally Posted by dummykid View Post
isnt' titanium better than steel?

Titanium firing pins are lighter than steel. They donít continue in motion with as much force as a steel pin when hit by the hammer. Which is why theyíve all been used for California guns. They allow the gun to pass the drop test.

A heavier steel firing pin once hit with the hammer move and maintain moving longer with more force until stopped usually by a primer thus reducing the chance of a light primer strike.

A body in motion tends to stay in motion concept.

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Old 04-23-2018, 7:47 PM
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Get a trigger job,
Brad Blancett Gunsmithing in Monrovia.
builds working 1911, not pieces of art.
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  #32  
Old 04-23-2018, 7:48 PM
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I went with an adjustable trigger on my SA MilSpec, and replaced the hammer, sear, and disconnector with a Harrison True Radius ignition set. I just dropped the parts in and now I have a very nice trigger pull. My MSD is set at 26# because I often use that frame for 10mm. The heavier MS has no effect, or little effect, on the trigger pull.
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Old 04-23-2018, 8:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dummykid View Post
isnt' titanium better than steel?
Titanium firing pin in a 1911s are notorious for primer cup material flowing into the firing pin hole causing light strikes. The only thing Titanium is good for in a 1911 is a scope mount and a slide racker. A comp for a very light power factor steel gun.
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Old 04-24-2018, 6:06 PM
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Thats interesting, i have a springfield mil spec A-1 also and I do the same thing with pulling shots to the left also. Its the only pistol I do that with so I feel your pain op ha ha.
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