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#1
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Primer Pocket size issue... .308
I have some Hornady match brass that I am using Federal large primers with. i tried the first one and the primer is slightly too big/the primer pocket is slightly too small for my large rifle primer. Should I: 1) enlarge the primer pocket? or 2) use a small rifle primer? How would i enlarge a primer pocket...? thanks
Last edited by NYY; 01-27-2014 at 7:14 PM.. |
#9
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I come across this occasionally with my once fired nickel plated Federal brass.
I usually toss 'em in the "freebies" bin, since I don't like bothering to swage. |
#10
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For primer pockets, I use either the Lyman hand reamer,it comes with large and small primer pocket heads or my Dillon Stager if I am doing large quantities.
Either device will remove the crimp if there is one and uniform the pocket if there is no crimp |
#11
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seems to be an "inner circle" inside the primer pocket. this is a crimp as I have discovered...? Ugh. Now this makes me worried if I swage it i might do too MUCH and not have it fit snug as if i didnt even need to swage some brass. or not swage enough. this annoys me. its Hornady Match Brass. Pretty good stuff.. dangit... 18 pieces. i dont want to swage it...
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#12
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using a hand reamer scares me exactly like what this person has said about them before: "Force on the cutter must be just right or the cutter can force too deeply into the pocket, and bind.It's difficult to keep the centerline of the case aligned with the centerline of the tool. If they are misaligned, the tool will bind, and cut an elliptical pocket." only way i see it is buying a machine (something not by hand) to fix these crimps. and to me, unfortunately, doesnt seem worth it.
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#14
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NNY, if you ream using a large drill bit or something similar, you may ruin the brass by removing too much material.
If you ream using a quality tool made specifically for reaming, you will not ruin the brass. The Lyman tool has two sizes, LG primer and SM primer. Both tools have a center piece that bottoms out on the primer pocket, preventing the reamer portion from going too deep into the crimp ring. By controlling the depth by bottoming out, the Lyman tool doesn't ruin you brass. Spend the extra money on a quality reaming tool or if you have the funds, get a swager. Using improvised tools such as a large drill bit us penny wise and pound foolish. Especially considering the Lyman hand tool is only a few dollars |
#16
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Don't fret on a swager. I use the dillon one and it is fool proof. There is not a way to "over do it" that I have ever noticed once set up. Also like someone mentioned it does make the primer pocket uniform which is a plus, more consistency = more accuracy (results may vary).
I reload a crap ton of LC 5.56 and all have the crimp. When I pick up brass sometimes I do not know if it is once fired (still has crimp) or reloaded (crimp removed) as the people I shoot with normally use m193's and I do not know if it is my brass or theirs. Long run on sentence later, I swage every case on this brass.
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Nathan Tactical Machining 1270 Biscayne Blvd Deland, FL 32724 Phone 386-490-4464 fax 386-490-4890 |
#18
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The swaging die (ie- RCBS) is very easy to use and inexpensive. I have both styles of swagers and can't say one is better than the other...
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#19
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don't waste you money buying dedicated 'primer pocket swaging' tools. Go to Home Depot and get yourself a counter sink chuck it up on a drill and spin it for half a second or till you get the crimp off or a shiny chamfer and it's done.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-2...CST1/203530165 It just chamfers the edge and doesn't change the pocket depth or diameter cuz you want the pocket tight. The chamfered edge seats primer much easier and helps you ID the processed brass next time. 'Swaged' brass can still crushes primer once in a while. My chamferred brass never crushed a primer. I chamferred, loaded and shot 10s of 1000s of brass with this method. Never an issue.
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GCC NRA Certified Pistol Instructor Don't count your hits and congratulate yourself, count your misses and know why. |
#20
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Quote:
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#21
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I used the RCBS unit on a bunch of.45 acp mil brass, and it worked great. It just swages the outer third of the pocket, so primers still go in nice and snug.
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Bob B. (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#22
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works with all brass
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GCC NRA Certified Pistol Instructor Don't count your hits and congratulate yourself, count your misses and know why. |
#23
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If you get one that feels tight even after swaging, pop the primer back out, and swab the hole with a light application of moly neck sizing powdered lube, it will go right in.
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Bob B. (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#24
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I have used this to remove crimp rings and slightly chamfer the pocket on many thousands of rounds of 5.56 and 7.62 brass. Just a 45 degree countersink bit mounted in a cabinet knob. A couple of twists is all it takes.
If prepping a large quantity, I remove it from the knob and chuck it in a drill press to save time (and my fingers).
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Just taking up space in (what is no longer) the second-worst small town in California. |
#25
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PLEASE DO NOT OVER REAM...speaking from experience. i lost about 30 good brass over reaming the crimp and causing loose pockets. I now use a dillon super swage. i use a lot of once-fired range brass since its cheap (free), readily available at my range 10 minutes from me and dang nabbit....mil brass is damn good brass
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#26
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.. the benefits of hand priming..
Reminds you the Lyman tool is perfect for this, no overpenetration, no oversizing.
__________________
After watching WTC Bldg #7 being razed, and considering it's main occupants.. I stumbled onto this note while checking advanced weapons.. "911 = false flag. WTC 7 was brought down by demolition. 47 floors came down in 6 1/2 seconds - not hit by a plane. Just one of hundreds of absurdities that occurred that day. Wake up". |
#27
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so with the RCBS swager kit, it wouldnt happen to fit into my single stage Lee press would it...? or do i need a damn RCBS press. hand reaming/swaging just doesnt seem right to me. this is fricken reloading. small explosions are going off for every shot. i would rather trust a machined,mechanical process to do cutting than my own free-hand wobbling and "thinking" its good "enough". swaging just seems more safe and exact.... i mean, am i the only one who also thinks this way...?
Last edited by NYY; 01-28-2014 at 6:18 PM.. |
#28
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Quote:
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#29
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and with mil brass, you like it so much that you dont mind decreasing the powder load by whatever % it is...? |
#30
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bsumoba mentioned that you can ruin brass by taking off too much metal just as I did. I've done just that before by not using the proper tool. Ruined a bunch of beautiful military 30-06 Lake City cases.
I switched over to the correct tool at only $9.99, here's the Midway link: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/682...ProductFinding It's the Lyman and it bottoms out on the base of the primer pocket to ensure that you don't remove too much metal. I did make one modification to the tool, I removed the head from the handle and I chucked it into my cordless drill to speed things up. It's the economical and safe way to remove primer crimps. I wouldn't use makeshift means to remove the crimps. Eventually, I purchased the Dillon Super Swager. Really fast way to remove crimps from a lot of brass. It's a bit pricey, but it's worth it. Either the Lyman with the head chucked in a drill or the Dillon will serve your needs quite well and it will do it safely |
#31
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Quote:
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#32
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Below is a RCBS swager, I was very disappointed because it pushed brass into the primer pocket and did not displace the brass outward swaging the brass. (POS)
I didn't have the money for the Dillon unit so I bought the reamer for the RCBS prep station below. It is tapered and will not touch the primer pocket walls, if inserted in a commercial Remington case it removes "NO" brass. Still being a cheap bastard I bought the Hornady case prep trio, to speed things up the primer pocket was first hit with the deburring tool and then the RCBS primer pocket reamer. The actual Lyman primer pocket reamer was just used as a GO/NO-GO gauge to insure the primer pocket had the crimp removed. Bottom line, don't be a cheap bastard and buy the Dillon swager and your fingers won't be so sore from holding all that brass you can't even pick your own nose. I had three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 brass to prep the primer pockets on. So please buy the Dillon swager and not cry when picking your own nose with abused and crippled fingers. Below, just one five gallon bucket of .223/5.56 brass with crimped primers. I have two more buckets to go and they are waiting for my Dillon swager. Anti-gun, non-reloaders don't have this problem. (remember don't be cheap and "picky") |
#33
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Buy a counter sink bit like was suggested by a few people here. The sooner you do and find out how easy it is to make crimped brass a non-issue, the less you'll want to kick yourself for leaving all that good boxer primed brass at the range just because it had crimped primers.
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#34
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I don't understand why some of you think it's impossible to ream a crimp by hand and not f*ck it up. You want to remove the displaced metal, and nothing more. That's a couple thousandth's of inch, NOT hogging out an eighth inch...
The counter sink works fast, you don't have to sort the brass into head stamp groups so the swager will work. Pick it up, touch it to the counter sink in the cordless drill for a couple of revs, and it's done. You're not weakening the brass, the crimp is as far away from the pressure as is possible. Remove just the crimp and you're not changing the primer pocket; the crimp was above the primer. There was another thread about reaming vs. swaging, one of the swaging peeps complained he didn't have a clue as to what needed cutting; so he had to buy the $130 tool. Just look at the brass, see the little ring of metal that is in the way; remove it. Easy... |
#36
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Because people, especially gun people, are as much into shooting guns are they are into over complicating and giving expert opinions on anything to do with everything!
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#38
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#39
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I ordered this exact setup yesterday. I have the RCBS pocket swager and it freakin sucks. I can never get a consistent swage. I tried the countersink bit route and it works, but is slow. So trying the Hornady case prep trio plus the RCBS crimp remover bit.
Last edited by elemenope; 01-29-2014 at 8:53 PM.. |
#40
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Quote:
Every once in a while somebody admits you really need to sort by headstamps to get a consistent swage. Even the Dillion instructions tell you to do that. I've checked, so don't tell me "no, you don't have to". |
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