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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles. |
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**FINISHED milling my first paperweight!**
Further update (last post TL;DR: milling paperweight this weekend (will update throughout the process), upper parts +pictures)
It was silly to make a new thread for the 6.8 rifle I'm building since this is all sort of happenings at the same time. Sorry if it's confusing to follow! Without further ado, FINALLY PARTS LIST 6.8SPC upper build : Spartan left-side charging non-reciprocating upper: $224, Carbon fiber hand guard (I have two others like it and it's great): $62 18" midweight ARP Triad barrel, NiB coated bolt and carrier: $402.50 midlength gas tube, steel YHM clamp on gas block, accu-wedge: 62.50 Subtotal: ~$750 Anderson lower+DROS: ~68 Spikes Tactical- less FCG at $45. Strike Industries extended takedown pins: $12.50 3lb ultra match trigger: $100 Ambi safety: $20 A2 stock and buffer system: $60 Riflegrips.com featureless grip: $19 KNS antiwalking pins: $35 Subtotal: ~$360 Tools: 80% universal easy jig (steel bushings): $170 Bits: $45 Router: $60 Cutting Fluid: $23 Subtotal: ~$300 (though reusable) Non-firearm related items for decorative purposes: 80% paperweight: Priceless ($52) Total for 6.8SPC Build: ~$1110 Grand Total: ~$1462 (+- due to some shipping for other parts separate from the build) I may buy some BUIS for this, but probably not until September. v---begin old post ---v So for a while I've had an AR and a half, and I'd like to be able to more quickly go back and forth between using 7.62x39 and 5.56. I figured it's about time I started from something more (or less) than just a stripped lower. Since I don't have a CNC, I thought a "blemished" paperweight would be more appropriate than a true block of aluminum. *****This is going to remain a featureless build.***** Yesterday (and this morning) I spent a while looking for the innards in order to come up with the best combination. **Update: See attachment for parts list and links Suggestions are greatly appreciated. Trying to keep the cost as low as possible while still following Buy Once Cry Once, and remaining featureless. For a more detailed description of my parts choices, click here. And the blemish: A small rough patch on the underside by the mag well. updated with pictures (: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...1&postcount=47 This is eventually going to be the lower for my 6.8 ARC rifle, but right now it's babysitting my 7.62x39
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Last edited by Exdc; 06-29-2016 at 7:59 PM.. |
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You didn't factor in the price of the router/jig/tooling to complete the paperweight, and possibly a second 80% in case the 1st one gets borked up. Best of luck, keep this thread updated.
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"If he won't walk, walk him...be nice" -Dalton WTS: 870 Barrel Clamp/Railed Mount http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...af415fafe8.jpg |
#3
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what trigger are you buying that cost 100 bucks?
You can buy a LPK for 40-50 bucks. Check out http://palmettostatearmory.com/ they have a LPK /w free shipping.
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Until next year I suppose, when you'll need to buy a set of punches to serialize this ghost gun
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Ya, I've stopped buying 80% lowers for the time being, since if any of this legislation passes I'll never be able to use them. I may or may not have a few "rainy day" 80% lowers stashed away, but I'm focussing on DROS'd lowers until the outcome of this legislation is known.
PS, I second the motion to just go buy a Lower Build Kit from PSA. Your build list seems to mostly use milspec stuff, so I don't see the point in buying every little component individually. PSA has a kit on sale for $89 right now that includes everything needed to complete a stripped lower.
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Settle down, folks. The new "ghost gun" regulations probably don't do what you think they do. Last edited by CandG; 05-24-2016 at 2:32 PM.. |
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Or the cost of the boat for the staged accident. );
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Just stamp some numbers on it........I have been shooting since the 70~s and never had anyone run the numbers on one of my guns while out shooting....
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#11
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Bought my first paperweight (:
For those who want a breakdown of my logic:
I put links into the pdf with the items and prices. The parts that are mil spec are the bolt catch, most of the springs and pins, and the math release. I am getting extended takedown pins as well as a different grip (the riflegrips.com one) aand an A2 stock. The trigger is a 3.5 lb drop in assembly. I believe it's made (or at least marketed) by Rise Armament. It had decent reviews everywhere I looked. I haven't been able to find a complete A2 stock for less than $100 in stock. Trigger, grip, and stock are what make it expensive, adding 180 to the price of the $52 paperweight. That's with $30 saved on the surplus A2 shell. Otherwise I was already at 260. So if I went milspec lpk that's 52 + ~$50, + minimum $100 (shipped) on the stock (not buying UTG/Leapers), +$20 for the grip I got, or + 50 for the MMG. That's either $52 +$170 or +$200, and that's with a stock trigger. By getting the parts individually I'm getting little upgrades that I wish I had in my current rifle, and I get a great trigger.
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Last edited by Exdc; 05-24-2016 at 7:05 PM.. |
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We've got cookies |
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That's what I was told when I built my first one... They were right, I haven't.
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#16
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Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk |
#18
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Bought my first paperweight (:
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(: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Last edited by Exdc; 05-24-2016 at 7:22 PM.. |
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Has anyone used the Rise Armament RA-140 trigger?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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#20
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I bit the bullet and purchased this http://www.80percentarms.com/collect...ar-15-easy-jig and this http://www.80percentarms.com/collect...y-jig-tool-kit. Wallet needs some excedrin.
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C'mon man, shouldn't we ban Democracks from Cal-Guns? Or at least send them to re-education camps. |
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Yep. I just don't personally want to waste a bunch of time machining 80% lowers just to end up serializing and registering them later anyways. I do understand why others might, though.
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Settle down, folks. The new "ghost gun" regulations probably don't do what you think they do. |
#23
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80% project must haves:
80% Arms Easy Jig (highly recommended) Fabrication kit Drill press vs. Hand drill (highly recommended) Cutting fluid Vise I would recommend 6061s vs. 7075s for beginners. Good luck OP and we're here to offer advice! Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk |
#24
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Thanks! Support is appreciated.
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http://www.amazon.com/10016E-EP-XTRA.../dp/B00DHMHSGM Keep in mind when it comes to the 7075s, you should refrain from doing a full hash mark in one pass. I've split this between 1/3 to 1/2 per hash mark YMMV. When it came to 6061s, I cent comfortable doing a full hash mark per pass. This made completing the project on 1.5 hours (start to finish). I forgot to mention, have a dryvac nearby to clear out the chips. Good luck, have fun and remain patient! Here's two that I finished a few weeks ago: Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Last edited by spyde12; 05-27-2016 at 2:18 AM.. Reason: Added photo |
#26
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Don't buy anything till you have it all cut out...
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God so loved the world He gave His only Son... Believe in Him and have everlasting life. John 3:16 NRA,,, Lifer United Air Epic Fail Video ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u99Q7pNAjvg |
#27
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Thank you! Fluid and dry vac are great suggestions, and I will wait to buy additional parts. I'm assuming I'll know what a hash mark is when I watch the how - to video.
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http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1062759 http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1028748 Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Last edited by spyde12; 05-27-2016 at 8:11 AM.. Reason: Added links |
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Dang those are clean, great work! I've only made one so far, and I thought it came out pretty clean, but it's nowhere near THAT clean. I need to figure out how to fix the wobble in my old 1960's drill press chuck before I attempt to make another.
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Settle down, folks. The new "ghost gun" regulations probably don't do what you think they do. |
#31
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Believe it or not, the endmill is still good to go, as long as I stick to 6061. It's too dull to use on 7075s now. I've used the same one for both my 308 and AR15 jig. That's a mixture of 7075s and 6061s...over 10 lowers. I've just recently switched to 6061s and the duration of the project is night and day. My process went from a little over 3 hours (dryvac/cleanup included) to an hour and 15 minutes. This is why I recommend using 6061s. The passes from my own experience is a 3:1 or 2:1 hash mark ratio vs. 7075s YMMV. Cutting fluid, technique and patience is key. Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk |
#32
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Bought my first paperweight (:
I believe (though I have no way of knowing for sure) that my blemished lower is 6061. The 7075 is on back order, so I'm assuming what I have is the one that's in stock. That sound be nice due to the corrosion resistance, and the milling ease. And it sounds like the end mill will last longer.
Just ordered the cutting fluid. Thanks again for the link and suggestion! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Last edited by Exdc; 05-27-2016 at 12:22 PM.. |
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The first hash mark is a shallow pass. With that said: If you go to the first hash mark to connect the holes with the endmill; if it cuts with little effort, then you've got a 6061. If you have to go slower to minimize chatter, then you've got a 7075. Regardless of the aluminum, keep a firm hold on the router Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk |
#34
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I'll be popping my 80% cherry soon, after this memorial day weekend is over.
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Looking forward to seeing the results Kwikvette!
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#36
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Bought the lower kit.
I went shopping, and it hurt the pocket book. See first post for update. Fortunately I can resell the jig at about 88% of what I payed for it. And I will probably get lots of use out of it. I also have some stripped lowers in case I bork anything up too terribly. xD
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Last edited by Exdc; 06-09-2016 at 1:05 AM.. |
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I'm probably going to go with the LUTH-AR stock, but I would like feedback (:
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