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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here. |
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#1
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Bolting down safe on carpet question
Bolting down my two safes in the house we just moved too, each is going in a small walk in closet in a corner.
Should I push the safes in the corners to save room, in doing so it will be on the carpet tack strip on one side and along the back, then shim side and front which isn't sitting on tack strip. Or should I pull the safes out from the wall about 1 1/4" and bolt it down so none of it is sitting on the tack strip? |
#2
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Cut the carpet out, remove that part of the tack strip and molding, level the safes on metal shims or at least put a quarter in each corner so there's an air gap between the safe/concrete.
Impact drill with concrete bit, then use concrete anchor bolts like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-AS-383...d_i=B00AAME8W4 (Not sure if this is the right size) |
#3
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#4
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If I didn't own the place and if the solution works (door type matters), I'd place the safes in corners and bolt them to the wall studs, just like large furniture is done for earthquake proofing.
That kind of work is easier to remove and patch when you move, thus it's not ideal from a security perspective, but with my "ifs" above, ideal may not exist. |
#5
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I do own the house, and it is concrete slab, but wife say " I ain't cutting out the carpet" she is ok with the 1/2 holes for the bolts since I have a small piece of scrap to use to patch it when we sell this house.
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#6
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Post-tensioned slab?
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#9
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I would leave a inch or two gap. sooner or later, something is going to slide or fall behind it and a gap will make it easier to fish out. I just put mine on the carpet and bolted them down.
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#10
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Curious who you use for insurance... everyone I've looked into has a max covered that is much lower than what I need...
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#11
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Be sure to use good quality bolt, being away from the wall give a person the ability to pull and pull on the safe and snap the bolts off, Three heavy bolts should do the trick.
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______________________________ In this life you either push or get shoved. Better to die on your feet then live on your knees. For evil to succeed, all it takes is for good men to do nothing. |
#12
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#13
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If you own the place bolt to the floor and walls in an adjacent corner. The belt a suspenders method. Also good if you have a post tensioned slab. You can have the floor tested to find the cables, but some safe installers will still not drill deep enough to avoid the cables. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If you find yourself in a fair fight, you're doing it all wrong. |
#14
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Post tensioned slab. Either the installer will use very short anchor bolts, or you’ll have to get the slab tested to locate the cables. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If you find yourself in a fair fight, you're doing it all wrong. |
#15
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All depends on the safe. Pry attacks are most common and are more successful if they can tip the safe on its back (better leverage). If a perp can haul a jack hammer around, he’s more likely to bring a proper cutting wheel. With the new gun restrictions, any RAWS are now irreplaceable and off roster handguns difficult to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If you find yourself in a fair fight, you're doing it all wrong. |
#16
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#17
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Plastic under the safe is a great idea
Never allow an extra lever point - flush to the wall is proper You might want to make a template. Set safe on plywood - drill holes from safe into plywood- use plywood to drill holes in concrete or flooring. Vacuume up dust Slide safe in place Bolt down For those who refuse to bolt their safes down- do you at least bolt the safes to each other to make them too awkward to move?
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Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs) Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT (thanks to Jeff Cooper) |
#18
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https://smile.amazon.com/Duracell-Un...s%2A=0&ie=UTF8
I have a couple of these that work great... turns on the light when you open the safe. Motion sensor is adjustable to aim it around 45 degrees... you can make it turn on when you reach into the safe or when the door opens. I probably changed batteries once each in a few years. If unavailable I'm sure there is a similar new model. You can use the mount or just slap velcro on the light bar assuming your safe is carpeted. Easy as hell compared to some solutions I have seen. |
#19
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The crew who installed our safe said in California, bolting the safe to the floor is more for earthquake safety and less for theft.
They also said that they have seen very few stolen large safes. Most large safes are cut into on site. |
#20
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It is amazing what one or more humans can do when they understand leverage and have the right tools. |
#23
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I've seen guys on youtube move safes by them selves that are well over 1000LBS. And even though guns are insured, I cant replace my fathers Colt Python he carried for over 25 years on the CHP, or my first 10/22 I got 40 years ago, not to mention my pre 2000 RAW's that are banned by name. Not replaceable in the PRK. I agree if some one is motivated and has the time, they can get into any safe, it would be easiest to just go out in the garage, grab a drill and my saws all, and cut a hole in the side or top. but hopefully if two guys show up with an truck, and they try to take my safe out, it will stop them. I used my larger safe for 20 years on my old house and never bolted it down, but for about $60 bucks total to bolt two safes down, and that includes buying the hammer drill I think its money well spent. Last edited by brianm767; 07-24-2018 at 2:06 PM.. |
#25
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The bottom of the safe most likely isn't painted. It's probably bare steel. If you put it directly on the carpet, it might leave a stain. The plastic idea sounds like a good idea.
On another note, if you plan to add LED lights or a dry rod, run the extension cord to the interior of the safe before you bolt it down. Depending on how close the back of the safe is to the wall/baseboard, it can be tough to fish wire thru after the fact. |
#26
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I use this led kit from a vendor here, it's seriously awesome. https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/...d.php?t=759990
Motion activated and runs on 8 AA. I'm in/out all the time and only changed batteries once in 3 years. Get the extra strip so you have 1 horizontal across top and 1 large strip vertically on left/right. |
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