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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here.

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  #1  
Old 07-22-2018, 5:08 PM
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Default Bolting down safe on carpet question

Bolting down my two safes in the house we just moved too, each is going in a small walk in closet in a corner.
Should I push the safes in the corners to save room, in doing so it will be on the carpet tack strip on one side and along the back, then shim side and front which isn't sitting on tack strip.

Or should I pull the safes out from the wall about 1 1/4" and bolt it down so none of it is sitting on the tack strip?
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Old 07-22-2018, 5:42 PM
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Cut the carpet out, remove that part of the tack strip and molding, level the safes on metal shims or at least put a quarter in each corner so there's an air gap between the safe/concrete.

Impact drill with concrete bit, then use concrete anchor bolts like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-AS-383...d_i=B00AAME8W4 (Not sure if this is the right size)
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Old 07-23-2018, 1:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreWeFree View Post
Cut the carpet out, remove that part of the tack strip and molding, level the safes on metal shims or at least put a quarter in each corner so there's an air gap between the safe/concrete.

Impact drill with concrete bit, then use concrete anchor bolts like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-AS-383...d_i=B00AAME8W4 (Not sure if this is the right size)
Sure, if he owns the house, and it's on a concrete slab.
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Old 07-23-2018, 2:02 PM
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If I didn't own the place and if the solution works (door type matters), I'd place the safes in corners and bolt them to the wall studs, just like large furniture is done for earthquake proofing.

That kind of work is easier to remove and patch when you move, thus it's not ideal from a security perspective, but with my "ifs" above, ideal may not exist.
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Old 07-23-2018, 4:10 PM
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I do own the house, and it is concrete slab, but wife say " I ain't cutting out the carpet" she is ok with the 1/2 holes for the bolts since I have a small piece of scrap to use to patch it when we sell this house.
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Old 07-23-2018, 7:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianm767 View Post
I do own the house, and it is concrete slab, but wife say " I ain't cutting out the carpet" she is ok with the 1/2 holes for the bolts since I have a small piece of scrap to use to patch it when we sell this house.
Post-tensioned slab?
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2018, 8:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianm767 View Post
I do own the house, and it is concrete slab, but wife say " I ain't cutting out the carpet"...
New wife mod needed.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2018, 8:18 PM
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Put plastic under the safe so the moisture from the concrete doesn't rust the safe.
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2018, 11:27 PM
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I would leave a inch or two gap. sooner or later, something is going to slide or fall behind it and a gap will make it easier to fish out. I just put mine on the carpet and bolted them down.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt1372 View Post
It weighs over 750# (which requires a min of 2 men and special equipment to move it) and if that's not enough to prevent someone from stealing it, they are welcome to it. Everything in it is insured.
Curious who you use for insurance... everyone I've looked into has a max covered that is much lower than what I need...
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Old 07-24-2018, 2:14 AM
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Originally Posted by M1NM View Post
Put plastic under the safe so the moisture from the concrete doesn't rust the safe.
^^^ heavy duty plastic, I would also keep it away from the back wall. You can then drill a hole in the back of the safe and run a power cord for a LED light and dryer unit. Gun safe in closet is going to be dark as heck.

Be sure to use good quality bolt, being away from the wall give a person the ability to pull and pull on the safe and snap the bolts off, Three heavy bolts should do the trick.
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2018, 3:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt1372 View Post
I own my house but have never bolted the safe down.

In fact, I've moved and moved it twice and never bolted down in the other houses either. Helps that I never let anyone who visits (including service people) my house know it's there in the 1st place.

It weighs over 750# (which requires a min of 2 men and special equipment to move it) and if that's not enough to prevent someone from stealing it, they are welcome to it. Everything in it is insured.

Better that that the damage they'd cause jackhammering out of the concrete causing untold damage to the pretensioned concrete slab of my house, if they have enough time to roll the safe outta there anyway.
Feel the same way, even a relatively high end safe can be breached if someone has the right tools. I rely more on our whole house alarm and big dogs since believe it or not out local PD responds very quickly to house alarms, but they will charge you for more then one false alarm per year.
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2018, 7:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billped View Post
If I didn't own the place and if the solution works (door type matters), I'd place the safes in corners and bolt them to the wall studs, just like large furniture is done for earthquake proofing.

That kind of work is easier to remove and patch when you move, thus it's not ideal from a security perspective, but with my "ifs" above, ideal may not exist.


If you own the place bolt to the floor and walls in an adjacent corner. The belt a suspenders method. Also good if you have a post tensioned slab. You can have the floor tested to find the cables, but some safe installers will still not drill deep enough to avoid the cables.


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  #14  
Old 07-24-2018, 7:58 AM
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Originally Posted by riprap View Post
Post-tensioned slab?


Post tensioned slab. Either the installer will use very short anchor bolts, or you’ll have to get the slab tested to locate the cables.


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Old 07-24-2018, 8:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt1372 View Post
I own my house but have never bolted the safe down.

In fact, I've moved and moved it twice and never bolted down in the other houses either. Helps that I never let anyone who visits (including service people) my house know it's there in the 1st place.

It weighs over 750# (which requires a min of 2 men and special equipment to move it) and if that's not enough to prevent someone from stealing it, they are welcome to it. Everything in it is insured.

Better that that the damage they'd cause jackhammering out of the concrete causing untold damage to the pretensioned concrete slab of my house, if they have enough time to roll the safe outta there anyway.


All depends on the safe. Pry attacks are most common and are more successful if they can tip the safe on its back (better leverage). If a perp can haul a jack hammer around, he’s more likely to bring a proper cutting wheel.

With the new gun restrictions, any RAWS are now irreplaceable and off roster handguns difficult to replace.


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Old 07-24-2018, 8:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt1372 View Post
I own my house but have never bolted the safe down.

In fact, I've moved and moved it twice and never bolted down in the other houses either. Helps that I never let anyone who visits (including service people) my house know it's there in the 1st place.

It weighs over 750# (which requires a min of 2 men and special equipment to move it) and if that's not enough to prevent someone from stealing it, they are welcome to it. Everything in it is insured.

Better that that the damage they'd cause jackhammering out of the concrete causing untold damage to the pretensioned concrete slab of my house, if they have enough time to roll the safe outta there anyway.
That's what I thought....until I needed my 900-lb. safe moved to a different area. One skinny guy showed up with a dolly & moved it.
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Old 07-24-2018, 9:54 AM
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Plastic under the safe is a great idea

Never allow an extra lever point - flush to the wall is proper

You might want to make a template. Set safe on plywood - drill holes from safe into plywood- use plywood to drill holes in concrete or flooring.
Vacuume up dust
Slide safe in place
Bolt down


For those who refuse to bolt their safes down- do you at least bolt the safes to each other to make them too awkward to move?
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2018, 9:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike415stone View Post
Gun safe in closet is going to be dark as heck.
https://smile.amazon.com/Duracell-Un...s%2A=0&ie=UTF8

I have a couple of these that work great... turns on the light when you open the safe. Motion sensor is adjustable to aim it around 45 degrees... you can make it turn on when you reach into the safe or when the door opens. I probably changed batteries once each in a few years. If unavailable I'm sure there is a similar new model. You can use the mount or just slap velcro on the light bar assuming your safe is carpeted. Easy as hell compared to some solutions I have seen.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:53 AM
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The crew who installed our safe said in California, bolting the safe to the floor is more for earthquake safety and less for theft.

They also said that they have seen very few stolen large safes. Most large safes are cut into on site.
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgt1372 View Post
Bolting the safe to the floor will not signigicantly decrease the risk of loss and I'm willing to take that risk based on the reasons noted above.
Do what you want. They are specifically designed to be bolted down. I've done the same for periods of time and have been ok. Hidden, bolted, in a tought place to remove, with security, cameras, etc... is preferred, but free country.

It is amazing what one or more humans can do when they understand leverage and have the right tools.
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:29 PM
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There’s also this




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Old 07-24-2018, 1:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riprap View Post
Post-tensioned slab?
No it is not
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Old 07-24-2018, 1:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Win231 View Post
That's what I thought....until I needed my 900-lb. safe moved to a different area. One skinny guy showed up with a dolly & moved it.
Same thing happened to me, I moved my smaller Liberty with another guy and a fridge dolly, I hired a guy to move my larger Liberty, not huge but about 700LBS empty, one skinny guy with his older gentleman helper showed up, The skinny guy used a standard dolly and moved that thing around like it was nothing. When he got close to where he wanted it, he used schedule 40 PVC under the safe and it rolled like a skate board. I was shocked how easy some one who knew what they were doing could move it.

I've seen guys on youtube move safes by them selves that are well over 1000LBS.

And even though guns are insured, I cant replace my fathers Colt Python he carried for over 25 years on the CHP, or my first 10/22 I got 40 years ago, not to mention my pre 2000 RAW's that are banned by name. Not replaceable in the PRK.

I agree if some one is motivated and has the time, they can get into any safe, it would be easiest to just go out in the garage, grab a drill and my saws all, and cut a hole in the side or top. but hopefully if two guys show up with an truck, and they try to take my safe out, it will stop them. I used my larger safe for 20 years on my old house and never bolted it down, but for about $60 bucks total to bolt two safes down, and that includes buying the hammer drill I think its money well spent.

Last edited by brianm767; 07-24-2018 at 2:06 PM..
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Old 07-24-2018, 2:48 PM
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Bolt it down, dont listen to dingus.
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Old 07-24-2018, 3:08 PM
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The bottom of the safe most likely isn't painted. It's probably bare steel. If you put it directly on the carpet, it might leave a stain. The plastic idea sounds like a good idea.

On another note, if you plan to add LED lights or a dry rod, run the extension cord to the interior of the safe before you bolt it down. Depending on how close the back of the safe is to the wall/baseboard, it can be tough to fish wire thru after the fact.
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  #26  
Old 07-24-2018, 3:52 PM
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I use this led kit from a vendor here, it's seriously awesome. https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/...d.php?t=759990
Motion activated and runs on 8 AA. I'm in/out all the time and only changed batteries once in 3 years.

Get the extra strip so you have 1 horizontal across top and 1 large strip vertically on left/right.
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