Wanting to rebarrel a 22-250 to a better long range caliber

[Lucky Scott]

I started another thread about taking a 22-250 and rebarreling it in 6.5 Creedmore.

link = http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1021757

Any thoughts or advice?

[Fjold]

I've shot my 22.250 to 1,000 yards. How much further do you want to shoot?

I have a 26", three groove, Pacnor Supermatch barrel with a 1:10" twist and I use the 69 grain SMK's. If I was going to build it just for long range shooting I would have ordered a 1:7.5" twist and use the 90 grain bullets.

[Rbutler]

6.5 creedmore
6x47 lapua
6mm creedmore
260rem

Those are a few to consider that have great downeange ballistics.

On your thread, a brake in any caliber helps. Makes it easier to spot impacts. If you can afford it get the action tried up while it's torn apart

[dskit]

Sounds like a great idea. If you have specifics questions....I've logged over 5,000 rounds with the 6.5 Creedmore in the last 3 or 4 years.

[Wrangler John]

Yeah, I rebarrel them all the time using a barrel made with a Savage type nut. Once you have the tools they swap out in about 15 minutes. That way any barrel chambered for any cartridge that the action length and bolt face dimensions can support are good to go.

Except that additional bolts for different cartridge families can be switched, as in the case of the Remington 700, or bolt heads substituted as in the case of the Savage and Remington 783, while still remaining within the limits of action length. My next project is to convert a Remington 700 action from its stable of barrels in .22-250 Remington, .22-250 Ackley and .308 Winchester, to a .204 Ruger with a new barrel, PT&G bolt and factory magazine parts.

This madness allows swapping in barrels of different contours, lengths, twist rate, or muzzle configuration with or without a brake.

If you stick with the .22-250 Remington, and it really has a good long range potential, I suggest a barrel of at least 1:9" twist to stabilize the heavier/longer bullets. Or one can neck it up or buy brass for the 6mm XC in a 1:7" - 1:7.5" twist:

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...roductId/25160

To exactly match the twist to a particular bullet use a twist calculator and measure samples of the bullet to plug in the data:

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi
http://www.bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/

Berger and some other manufacturers list the minimum recommended twist rate for their bullets. My recommendation is to always err on the side of a faster twist than one that is too slow.

If you use a Pac-Nor, I also suggest a polygonal rifled barrel, these have worked fantastically for me. I would check the brass availability of any cartridge you choose before making your final selection. Some of it is scarce as hen's teeth or expensive.

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...tegoryId/3794?

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...ategoryId/687?

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...productId/9529

There is nothing wrong with the 7mm-08 Remington either.

I currently have a Criterion .25-06 barrel sitting on the bench waiting to swapped on to a Remington 783. There are two barrels, one a prefit Savage in 6mm PPC for one existing rifle on order, and a Kreiger 6mm 1:8" twist barrel leaning in the corner, to be finished in 6mm BR Norma chambering waiting for machining and the arrival of a new action. You can really go rifle looney on this stuff.

Good luck, the real problem is that there are just so many choices, which is why I went barrel swapping happy.

[kcstott]

Just be sure to set the headspace on a Savage or Sako style barrel nut on the tight side like .002" tight as this is the factory recommendation from Savage when installing a new barrel. After the first shot the head space needs to be checked again to verify