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  #41  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:33 PM
elemenope elemenope is offline
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Chucked into a drill it is slow (You assume I was using the single stage press version of the RCBS.) Pick up brass, start drill, hold brass to drill. Two sets of tired fingers. I tried using my drill press, but it doesn't have a variable speed setting and was spinning way to fast and wouldn't cut cleanly.

I just got my case prep trio today and the champfer tool does the same thing as the countersink but twice as fast with just as good results. I'm really digging it.

As for the swage method, my brass was sorted by brand (LC, WCC, etc.), but not year. I'm not that dedicated enough to sort down to that level, so will stick with the slight reaming it takes to remove the crimp.
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  #42  
Old 01-31-2014, 11:07 PM
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NYY NYY is offline
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Dillon Super Swage came today. Used it on 15 pieces of crimped brass. Worked perfectly! 15 more cases primed and ready to go. Thank you all for the tip on buying it. It definitely was worth it. And is easy to use.
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  #43  
Old 02-01-2014, 9:59 AM
bigedp51 bigedp51 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klewan View Post
How is picking up a piece of brass, touching it to the counter sink for a moment and throwing it into the "done" pile, slower than putting the brass in the shell holder, pull the handle, return handle, remove brass from shell holder and throw onto "done" pile?
Because if you over do the bevel the primer can flow outward into the over beveled area. I picked some cases up at the range and the .223/5.56 cases looked like they had large rifle primers in them.

Below, a reaming job done with "your" tool by Bubba the ham fisted over reamer. When this case is fired it will look like it has a large rifle primer in it and the primer will flow outward and look like a mushroom when removed.



If you want a foolproof reamer then buy the RCBS crimp remover for their case prep station. It will only remove the crimp and the face of the reamer prevents over reaming when the base of the case contacts the face of the reamer. "BUT" doing this by hand and doing large volumes of brass makes for "VERY" sore fingers.



Using a reamer is OK "BUT" it removes brass, with the Dillon swager the crimp is displaced to the side and makes the primer pocket tighter. One problem with crimping primer pockets is the crimping pressure can cause the primer pocket to enlarge in diameter. Swaging makes for tighter primer pockets and less cases rejected with oversized primer pockets.

I use pin gauges as GO/NO-GO for the primer pockets "BEFORE" even thinking about priming the case.



To test the for loose primers I use the Lee depriming tool and if the primer can be pushed out with one finger the case goes in the scrap bucket.



My next big reloading purchase will be the Dillon swager after using a friends and seeing how well the work.

Last edited by bigedp51; 02-01-2014 at 10:08 AM..
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  #44  
Old 02-01-2014, 10:29 AM
ptmn ptmn is offline
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Using a chamfering tool to remove a crimp can work and it can be done safely and effectively; however, it can also remove too much brass and weaken or ruin the case.

There's nothing wrong with that method when done correctly, but using a proper primer pocket reamer or swager is more foolproof in making sure you don't remove too much brass...or just as importantly, not enough brass.

There are some that would argue that a loader shouldn't be loading if he doesn't use enough caution to make sure he doesn't "bubba" the primer pocket using a chamfering tool, but my argument is that everyone can and will make a mistake at one time in their loading lifetime.

As for speed, if you haven't used the Dillon Super Swager, then you really don't know how much faster and easier it is than "touching it to yo the countersink for a moment". Try the super swager and you will be impressed. I've used the countersink method, the Lyman Primer Pocket Reamer method and the Super Swager, and the super swager rocks!

There is also a method on YouTube to make the super swager even faster by using a board and bands to create an "auto eject" feature. It's simple, safe and effective.

Use any method that works for you and your loading needs, but be open minded as well, you might find a method on Calguns that may improve or speed up your loading. There is a lot of diverse experience on Calguns. I've change my loading methods several times after reading something on the board and trying it out.

Main issue is to be safe, have fun, and crank out some outstanding ammo while making good friends and connections in the Calguns board. Enjoy the weekend!
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  #45  
Old 02-01-2014, 11:44 AM
klewan klewan is offline
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[QUOTE=bigedp51;13338917]Because if you over do the bevel the primer can flow outward into the over beveled area. I picked some cases up at the range and the .223/5.56 cases looked like they had large rifle primers in them.

Below, a reaming job done with "your" tool by Bubba the ham fisted over reamer. When this case is fired it will look like it has a large rifle primer in it and the primer will flow outward and look like a mushroom when removed.

/QUOTE]

When I see somebody so stupid, so clueless, to do something like that; they shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a gun or reloading. Better for them and anyone near them. But, when half the population is by definition below average in mechanical reasoning, the job is to identify them...probably the ones with Velcro instead of shoe laces...

It's still faster to touch the brass to the reamer, just remove the crimped metal. No more. And the tool is only $4. Let the rest of us know how much you have to adjust the swage tool for different headstamps...
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  #46  
Old 02-01-2014, 2:06 PM
bigedp51 bigedp51 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klewan View Post
When I see somebody so stupid, so clueless, to do something like that; they shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a gun or reloading. Better for them and anyone near them. But, when half the population is by definition below average in mechanical reasoning, the job is to identify them...probably the ones with Velcro instead of shoe laces...

It's still faster to touch the brass to the reamer, just remove the crimped metal. No more. And the tool is only $4. Let the rest of us know how much you have to adjust the swage tool for different headstamps...
I have used a countersink in the past when I only had a few cases to remove the primer pocket crimp. "BUT" when you have three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 once fired cases to remove the crimp on you will get sore fingers holding each case while prepping the brass. I have every hand held reamer you can think of and two press mounted swagers. And I can tell you all NOTHING beat the Dillon Super Swage.

Remove the primer pocket crimp, uniform the primer pockets and the flash holes on this much brass by hand can be a real pain.



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  #47  
Old 02-01-2014, 2:28 PM
klewan klewan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigedp51 View Post
I have used a countersink in the past when I only had a few cases to remove the primer pocket crimp. "BUT" when you have three five gallon buckets of .223/5.56 once fired cases to remove the crimp on you will get sore fingers holding each case while prepping the brass. I have every hand held reamer you can think of and two press mounted swagers. And I can tell you all NOTHING beat the Dillon Super Swage.

Remove the primer pocket crimp, uniform the primer pockets and the flash holes on this much brass by hand can be a real pain.



You must have "'girly fingers" or something. OR, you're using a hand turned reamer, and not one in a drill motor. Are you??? I have a hard time believing picking up a piece of brass and touching it to a rotating countersink is going to cause crippling finger pain...Just reread your post and it appears you ARE doing it with a hand turned reamer. The Horror...

Get the countersink in a drill motor, use it that way. You won't need the swager...You can thank me later..
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