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  #1  
Old 03-28-2013, 10:29 PM
Rattlesnake6.8 Rattlesnake6.8 is offline
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Default 3D gun printing. Make your own AR lower from home!!!

I came across this video about a young man in Texas making 3D gun printing. Its very interesting on how technology will take firearm manufacturing to the next level. Based on this video, you will be able to print your own gun from your printer.


Here is a video you can check out...

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/DconsfGsXyA

Also, on what ATF says about 3D gun printing...

http://motherboard.vice.com/blog/the...-to-real-thing


Please chime in and leave your thoughts.
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2013, 11:16 PM
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i highly recommend most vice videos, especially their travel series. they are excellent. the mexican drug cartels vs. mormons is absolutely amazing. also, watch Mexican Pointy Boots. as to 3D printing i dont see how its much different than wood, fiberglass, or aluminum home manufacture. as it stands now a Loaded 3D printer that can print a durable lower receiver costs the same as power tools and jigs required to finish an 80% lower receiver. it's pointed that our culture is noticing 3D Firearms Component Printing although DIY with traditional materials and machining have been around for years. to finish my thought---watch the vice documentary about the arms market on the khyber pass. they film men hammering autoloading pistols from open forges. control.
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2013, 2:33 AM
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Only problem is that 3D printers use ABS plastic which is not the most chemical resistant but is pretty tough.

So as long as you are careful which cleaners you use it should last for a while

BUT

until a certified lab runs tests shooting 10,000 rounds+ multiple times I am not conviced it is safe to use for the long term.
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Old 03-29-2013, 2:42 AM
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Bear in mind that fused deposition modelers (most desktop 3d printers) produce solids with only 30% of the strength of their injection-molded counterparts. (I.e. 3d printed ABS has 30% of the strength of injection molded ABS)

Folks need to work up some appropriate structural changes to AR lowers in order to make them print nicely. I'm sure it's possible, but they're presently just re-using the same design for FDM plastic as they're using for forged aluminum.

The two materials don't react the same way. I kind of wish folks would try focusing on a free version of the SU-16 using AR parts - I think the Kel-Tec design is probably a little easier on plastic than the AR lower, which was designed for aluminum.
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Old 03-29-2013, 8:40 AM
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um no they are not actually. go to the website they are using their own version, sometimes with composite materials.
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Old 03-29-2013, 9:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlesnake6.8 View Post
Based on this video, you will be able to print your own gun from your printer.
I'm speaking to the above quote.

When people say "your printer", they're thinking of the commercially available $1k or less printers.

The more exotic printers using UV-cured materials and such are not at a price point where it'll be "your printer" any time soon.

Comparing current and even next-gen end user 3d printers to the high-end units is like comparing a Model T to a Ferrari.

I actually do own one.
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Old 03-29-2013, 9:20 AM
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want to see him make one on a 3d METAL printer!
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Old 03-29-2013, 9:22 AM
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The cost of the 3D printers are pretty high considering their limited capability. For the cost of a 3D printer why not just get a mill and CNC it? They seem pointless to me.
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Old 03-29-2013, 9:27 AM
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Of course it's not practical right now, but it's still progress.
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Old 03-29-2013, 9:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssilver88 View Post
The cost of the 3D printers are pretty high considering their limited capability. For the cost of a 3D printer why not just get a mill and CNC it? They seem pointless to me.
this. I dont get it.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:14 AM
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Got a link for 3d printers...
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:58 AM
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For sure, its not cost affordable at this moment, but the idea behind it on how in time, it will change alot of things in homemade firearms. Technology will change the goverment.
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Old 03-29-2013, 2:45 PM
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3D Printing in Plastic is more affordable than using a CNC Mill because any Mill that can automatically rotate the part on 5 axis and have a auto tool changer for the different Milling operations would be in the $65K range for the generic Chinese models let alone a good quality CNC Mill.

Remember from start to finish the 3D printer produces completed parts with no start and stop intervention from the operator to reposition the part or change out tools.

That not counting that the plastic material is cheaper than metal material and there is almost no waste on 3D printers unlike when you Mill part and lose over 50% of the material in shavings.
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Old 03-29-2013, 3:27 PM
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First off I dont know crap about these printers but noticed they use ABS for a material. ABS I have played with, I used to run a molding shop that made 95% of the worlds EKG sensors, we used ABS, then went to an ABS blend that had 20% chopped glass fiber in it and to say it was rugged was an understatement. Would it be possible to use this enhanced ABS in the printer??
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:52 AM
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I think 3D Printer is the wrong term for this machine. Should be called a plastic CNC mill
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Old 03-30-2013, 5:02 PM
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When it can run carbon plastic or fiberglass it may be viable...
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Old 03-30-2013, 7:51 PM
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Still pretty amazing to see how far the 3d printer tech has gone even if these receivers won't last as long as ABS injected receivers.
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Old 04-05-2013, 8:55 AM
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Now it got a little easier http://www.matterform.net/
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:39 AM
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Been playing with a desktop 3d printer for the past week. I don't know if I would trust it with anything larger than a .22 personally. The weak point for the ar is the buffer tube area and it does take a fair amount of beatings. As far as fiberglass reinforced, the printer is not capable... at least these aren't. The media or ABS comes on a 1kg spool and the size of the media is roughly 1.8mm give or take .05 depending on the maker of the abs. It simply melts the plastic layer by layer. Once a project is done, it looks like you cut it out of a ream of paper. Great tool and fun for projects but not sure about the build material or standard design of the buffer tube area more so. Just keep your project away from acetone, it will dissolve in minutes... If you guys are looking into one, I suggest the Solidoodle 3. Bang for the buck, it cannot be beat. I was on a time crunch so I ended up forking out 2k for a Replicator(original) by Makerbot. The Replicator 2 is primarily geared to use PLA(weaker than abs) which is a bio degradable starch based plastic... No heated platform(ABS tends to warp when it cools) and it also not open source friendly like the Replicator(original). Either way, the Replicator was able to ship in 48 hours and the Solidoodle 10+ weeks...
Kevin

Last edited by Sicarius; 04-05-2013 at 10:46 AM..
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:31 AM
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Wonder if anyone's tried printing around a metal reinforcement? Looking at a Glock frame makes me think about it... if only my son-in-law would get his printer up, darn it!
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:40 AM
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Don't have the AR-15 lower but I do have a couple of Defense Distributed's "Cuomo" AR-15 30 round mags in hand for evaluation. The printer they are making these on is not the home unit you can buy off the internet. It is a professional quality (very expensive) machine and produces a much nicer looking and most likely stronger part. My first impression is that the material these are made from is not as sturdy as glass filled nylon but are they strong enough? Probably. Will be taking a sacrificial unit to the range to test it till 1) failure or 2) I run out of ammo.

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Old 04-05-2013, 11:59 AM
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I don't think the printer is going to be easy to set up to print around a metal framework just how it prints layer by layer. Even if it were possible, it would be hard to get the plastic to bond to the metal on contact. The ABS does come out at a smoking 220ish C* at default but it really doesn't bond to anything but other abs plastic... I thought about maybe printing one with some reinforcement and a slot to drive a long thin bolt down each side of the receiver and epoxy it in... I haven't really thought about it much yet because I am trying to get more consistent prints first... one thing at a time.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:36 PM
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One work around would be to redesign the AR lower using stress modeling, to either make areas thicker or make appropriate changes externally. It can still be an AR but the outer physical changes might make it look less so, but alot more robust using the polymers available.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpyoldretiredcop View Post
Wonder if anyone's tried printing around a metal reinforcement? Looking at a Glock frame makes me think about it... if only my son-in-law would get his printer up, darn it!
You're not going to do that with a hobbiest printer.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-05-2013, 1:18 PM
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Still say the right solution is to redesign the lower. Use an upper without a bolt carrier that intrudes into the buffer tube, and you suddenly no longer have the weak spot at the rear. For that matter, even if you still use an ordinary buffer tube, add "wings" on the side so that the most breakable stress point (the buffer tube area) isn't so thin.

Again, plastic ain't aluminum. Adapting a design for a different material may mean structural changes.
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Old 04-05-2013, 2:03 PM
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Very true. At least for it to be safe and survive more than a few rounds...
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Old 04-05-2013, 5:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grammaton76 View Post
Still say the right solution is to redesign the lower. ... For that matter, even if you still use an ordinary buffer tube, add "wings" on the side so that the most breakable stress point (the buffer tube area) isn't so thin.

Again, plastic ain't aluminum. Adapting a design for a different material may mean structural changes.
They already did that. That's how they got it to work for 600 rounds. Have a look at the latest revision. They did seriously thicken and strengthen the buffer tube tower and the sides of the lower leading up to it.

Here's a screenshot of the changes:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DDR.JPG (84.0 KB, 164 views)
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Old 04-05-2013, 5:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDay View Post
You're not going to do that with a hobbiest printer.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
The main problem isnt just doing it.. but fusing the plastic and metal rails..
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Old 04-05-2013, 6:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exile Machine View Post
They already did that. That's how they got it to work for 600 rounds. Have a look at the latest revision. They did seriously thicken and strengthen the buffer tube tower and the sides of the lower leading up to it.
VERY nice! The 3d printed AR lowers I've seen up until this have all been just about identical to a regular lower.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:45 PM
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WOW

SO first off a 3D printer is truely more like a printer than a Mill machine.

3D printers make shapes by ADDING material to form a shape one drop at a time.

CNC Mills REMOVE material to form a shape.


Now as far as printing around metal frames and the such you guys getting way out into the weeds.

All that is needed is to break down the parts being produced into a outer and inner half in the 3D program. Then you need to use a high strength epoxy and bond the 2 halves to the inside and outside of the metal frame.

that simple ..... really.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:24 AM
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^ Nicely put sir! Much better than trying to print around a framework.
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:41 PM
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