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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun!

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  #41  
Old 02-13-2013, 4:33 PM
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I have a Pietta 1858 and had a heck of a time trying to get any caps to seat properly and not fall off.

Another member suggested Treso nipples from Track of the Wolf and I bought a set. #11 caps fit on them perfectly and I no longer worry about chain fires.
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  #42  
Old 02-13-2013, 6:26 PM
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Yeah, I tend to replace the nipples. Track of the Wolf ones are fine.

There are two sources of potential chain fires. From the front (mostly not an issue if you use the right sized balls - wads or grease adds extra insurance) and from the back (the nipple fell off and now you have an open hole). Probably from the back happens the most.
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  #43  
Old 02-23-2013, 6:58 AM
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Just wanted to put this revolver porn here before researching more on my 1858. Good thread for BP info, thanks guys!
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  #44  
Old 02-27-2013, 8:26 AM
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Some thoughts:

* a loading stand makes the time at the range easier and more fun. The one below is something I put together from materials in my garage.

* Consider making up paper cartridges in advance. These can either be of a type that you insert directly into the chamber, or alternatively just a pre-measured amount of powder that you decant into the chamber from the paper cylinder. It takes time to make them, but it saves time and effort at the range. There is plenty of information on how to do this online, or I can post my method here.

* Cheap and practical tools that will help: I make up a paper funnel for loading - cost = nothing. Have some wooden chopsticks available (from Japanese or Chinese takeout). They are very useful as cleaning tools for both the chambers and the barrel. They can push a cleaning patch, or you can wrap a piece of rag around them to use as a swab. Cost = nothing.

* If you load paper cartridges into the chambers (as I do) be aware of the risk of smouldering paper when reloading. See chopstick and swab above - problem solved.

* Be prepared to field strip your revolver at the range. This will enable you to keep shooting when you have those little glitches - such as a spent cap falling into a tight spot and jamming things up.

* If you want to shoot more than 25-30 rounds, be prepared to carry out a basic clean at the range, just to wipe away some of the fouling that starts to jam things up after a while. See field strip and chopsticks above.

If the initial experience seems a little frustrating, continue to learn and experiment. Once you find the caps to suit your gun, and the techniques that work for you, these revolvers are so much fun.

I have had good experience with Triple Seven in my Colt 1851. It would not be my first choice - but it works fine. I use 15 grains in the 36, with an 80 grain round ball. This is about equivalent to 18 grains of the real stuff. If using Triple Seven reduce all loads by 15%, but as I use light loads anyway this is not an issue.

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  #45  
Old 02-27-2013, 9:26 PM
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tag
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  #46  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:17 AM
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Got an email from Cabelas this morning; they were estimating to ship out the .44 navy to me by 2/25, now it's estimated 3/25.

Wonderful. So far I paid $11 shipping on $10 worth of lubed wads
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  #47  
Old 03-26-2013, 7:51 PM
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Only took 2 months, but...



So, in a few weeks, I'm going to take those of you that offered up on your offers

I have a pound of pyrodex, a measure that's on back order from Cabelas (ordered at the same time as the revolver), some swaged .451 balls, lubed wads, generic cleaning stuff that I normally haul to the range (hoppes, oil, brushes, patches, etc).

One thing I noticed is that the trigger guard on this is tiny. And while the Cabela's original ad said there's no engraving on the cylinder (on a navy!), this one has an engraved cylinder with the naval theme (not a huge fan, I prefer my guns clean of extras)
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  #48  
Old 03-26-2013, 8:01 PM
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If all you're missing is the measure, a lot of people use empty brass from modern rounds. A 45acp case holds about 28 grains.
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  #49  
Old 03-26-2013, 8:10 PM
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Ooh. That's good to know! Thanks!
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  #50  
Old 03-28-2013, 6:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sousuke View Post
Minor things about the two you posted. The 44 1851 is historically inaccurate (if your in to that sort of thing) You can find synthetics at most stores including cabelas. I buy BP from grafs (I buy 1 pound of their brand + 1 pyrodex can).

There is one CA regulation to be aware of. You are limited to 1 pound of the real stuff and or 20 pounds of the synthetic.
That idiotic PRK crap is one of the many reasons I love Nevada. But pertaining to the OP, I'm in the camp of use real black powder. I tried pyrodex when it first came out and it was horrible.

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(c) The storing of powder underground in mines.
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  #51  
Old 03-28-2013, 7:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuolumnejim View Post
That idiotic PRK crap is one of the many reasons I love Nevada. But pertaining to the OP, I'm in the camp of use real black powder. I tried pyrodex when it first came out and it was horrible.
In the 70s? It's been reformulated a couple of times since then. It and 777 work great in revolvers and other guns with relatively direct ignition. It works OK in guns where there's a lot of routing through drums or whatever - to compensate it's important to use relatively hot caps. It doesn't work at all in flintlocks.
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  #52  
Old 03-28-2013, 7:09 PM
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I gave up on CA regulations many years ago and only shoot black powder these days. They're just as powerful as most cartridges and a whole lot more accurate. I normally keep the 1858 loaded on the top of the closet.

Here's my Dragoon...nice tight group from 45' standing. Took the same revolver out to 50 yards last weekend and got 50% into center mass...not many autoloaders can do that.


Last edited by Red96ta; 03-28-2013 at 7:13 PM..
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  #53  
Old 03-28-2013, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eljay View Post
In the 70s? It's been reformulated a couple of times since then. It and 777 work great in revolvers and other guns with relatively direct ignition. It works OK in guns where there's a lot of routing through drums or whatever - to compensate it's important to use relatively hot caps. It doesn't work at all in flintlocks.
Yep the stuff came out during the United States Bicentennial and a bunch of guys were trying it, disappointment ensued.
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  #54  
Old 03-28-2013, 11:38 PM
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I use Pyrodex C&B pellets in my Ruger Old Army. Much easier than loose powder.
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  #55  
Old 03-29-2013, 3:06 AM
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To learn cap and ball google this : Gatofeo . I still learn from that guy...
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  #56  
Old 03-30-2013, 12:29 PM
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This thread needs more real Colt.











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  #57  
Old 06-30-2015, 2:11 PM
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Never too old to learn on BP...

Get one and see. Black Powder shooting is a hoot and why not learn something of the art old school...
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  #58  
Old 06-30-2015, 2:25 PM
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Here's my loading stand.

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  #59  
Old 06-30-2015, 3:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOEX FFF View Post
Both are good revolvers. Pietta has a good reputation.
I have several Pietta's and they have all worked perfectly.

There's nothing like real BP, but it's going to be easier to find Pyrodex P rather than real BP FFFg. Plus, there are limits/amounts you can legally have of real BP at one time.


Don'ts:

Don't repeatedly (or at all) dry-fire your revolver as it can cause damage to the nipples.
Don't ever use smokeless powder.
Don't smoke while loading, shooting or handling black powder or black powder substitute.
Always use a powder measure. Don't ever eyeball a charge.
When loading, don't cap/prime your nipples first. Powder-wad-ball or powder-ball-grease your chambers first (make sure the balls are fully seated) then cap when you're ready to shoot.
Don't rush out and buy a cartridge conversion cylinder (for steel frames only). Learn your revolver first and the art of shooting Cap n' Ball.

Do's:

Follow all factory recommended powder charges/weight for your iron.
Keep in mind, Brass framed revolvers require a lighter load than a steel frame.
Do wear eye protection when charging your chambers.
Clean your revolver the same day after shooting. Preferably with hot soapy water. Dry thoroughly, lube and reassemble.
I've also found that CCI #10 caps stay on the Pietta cylinder nipples better than #11's.
Treat all muzzle-loaders just like you would any other firearm.
Do have fun!

One thing to keep in mind is that you don't have to completely disassemble the entire revolver to clean it after each outing. I used to do that religiously with each of my guns every time I shot them, and frankly, I began to think that maybe it was a bit too much trouble as I'd spend nearly as much time cleaning as shooting.

But then one time I bought a nice little Uberti 1862 in just about perfect condition, and when I took the thing apart there was a fair amount of black gunk in the lockwork that indicated it had been shot quite a bit. Clearly, the person who had owned it prior to me never took it apart and it worked and looked just fine.

So now I'll only take the guns apart into their major assemblies and clean them that way. And instead of taking the frame completely apart, I'll simply spray some sort of water displacing lubricant into the lockwork and call it good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red96ta View Post
I gave up on CA regulations many years ago and only shoot black powder these days. They're just as powerful as most cartridges and a whole lot more accurate. I normally keep the 1858 loaded on the top of the closet.

Here's my Dragoon...nice tight group from 45' standing. Took the same revolver out to 50 yards last weekend and got 50% into center mass...not many autoloaders can do that.
I love to own and shoot black powder firearms, but there's no way that that old technology will ever come close to what we use today. I have the same run of the mill autoloaders that everybody else has and every single one of them will easily keep their groups in center mass at 50 yards.

There is a reason we have relegated cap and ball revolvers to recreational shooting - they simply can't compete with modern firearms in terms of power, reliability, and ease of maintenance.
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  #60  
Old 07-01-2015, 11:06 PM
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Get the steel framed BP revolvers. They can take full power charges. Brass framed revolvers can only take half power. Brass is a soft metal and will deform from the recoil not the heat.

Use black powder if you can get it. Modern substitutes don't work as well and hang fire.

Navy calibers were all ways 36 caliber. Army was all ways 44 caliber. the colt 1851 navy was only made in 36 caliber. 1860 army was only 44 caliber. Police pistols were usually 36 like the 1861 colt police. Modern reproductions of 1851 navy's are sometimes in 44 but are not historically correct. The ones that are called confederate revolvers with brass frames are depicting some of the colt copies the south made for the war.

Caps that fall off can be carefully squeezed so they don't fall off. If you try different brands of caps there is usually one that works better on finicky revolver nipples.

Powder flasks make reloading a lot faster and easier.


Use this stuff on your cylinder pin and your revolver will not gum up and will work easier.


Get a bullet mold and make your own bullets. Use the softest type of lead. You can get conical type bullets for your revolver to.

Clean your revolver with hot water and dish soap. Hotter the water the better. You can do this in the kitchen sink. Thoroughly dry it and apply a good quality oil.
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  #61  
Old 07-02-2015, 1:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scobun View Post
This thread needs more real Colt.
I don't see a real Colt here^^^. These were made in Italy and assembled in the US of A.
Jon

Here's a couple of the real deal.
M1860 mfg 1863
M1849 mfg 1862

Last edited by musketjon; 07-04-2015 at 9:33 AM..
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