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Old 07-21-2015, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
What he is talking about is trying to use a nut gun as a switch barrel rifle without having g to re-adjust sizing dies and case shoulders while maintaining neck-sized cases.

On a machined-shoulder gun, the barrel repeats headspace to 0.0001" precision.
There is NO change in headspace.
With a barrel nut, you are adjusting headspace every time so it's not going to be exactly the same.
This means that neck sized cases may need to be full length sized after a barrel swap if the headspace is changed,

With the variation in position of the barrel, the zero is also going to wander between barrel swaps as well.

A proper "switch barrel" setup will have multiple fixed-shoulder barrels.

A barrel nut setup is more appropriate for someone who want to re-barrel at home but is not appropriate for switch-barrel use.

The floating savage bolt head does nothing for headspace variation.
The head floats so that it will follow the receiver and keep both lugs in contact regardless of how straight or crooked the receiver may be.
Yes, indeed, this is exactly what I was talking about. I like the idea of having a setup where you can run multiple cartridges; otherwise, who he heck could afford the guns and scopes?

So, indeed, I suppose there are no free lunches as this is basically a starter's rifle to simply pick one of the 3 cartridges offered and stick with it. I don't like the way the 308 is offered only in 20", but the 243 is 26" and the 6.5 is in 24" so that'll be a reasonable start. For people learning, I'd go 6.5CD and buy 140gr Hornady A-Max ammo, and it'll probably provide the best results of the rifles out there for under $1k.

If one is looking further down the road, I'd go with something you can interchange cartridges. Personally, I have ended up with too many guns and too many scopes by taking similar approaches in the past. It's the scope that kills you in cost. If you shoot three cartridges with one rifle and one scope, then it starts making more economical sense.

So, there are pros and cons. Does anyone know what the firing pin hole size is on these? To me, that's now a deal killer. This is why I now like the Rem 700 bolts since they are easily obtained with small firing pin holes. I don't like the Rem 700 configuration, but you always end up compromising.

It absolutely sucks that you have to put so much extra into a entry level gun like a Remington, but you will eventually find that little things like your bolt design end up killing you later on if you can't replace it.

I give the green light to those starting and want to shoot 6.5CD, as mentioned. However, I'd remove the forward rail so you do not need a 1.5" mount for your bell to clear. Realistically, if you want to actually USE your forward rail, you will likely want about a 1.85" mount so that it synchronizes with a clip-on imaging device. So, I'd suggest that folks be a bit careful with the front rail as I see it as a detriment rather than an advantage.
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