View Single Post
Old 07-19-2018, 3:26 PM
dfletcher's Avatar
dfletcher dfletcher is online now
I need a LIFE!!
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 13,216
iTrader: 4 / 100%

Originally Posted by scroman View Post
I'm not the OP but recently converted one from out of state and snapped some pics (actually took pics after the transfer was complete so I was converting from single action back to double however all the same). As OP states it is HIGHLY recommended you have a single action hammer assembly ready to deploy when converting. Don't want to mess with punching out the double action sear. Much easier to simply drop the pre-altered hammer assembly in the revolver. As ColdDeadHands1 notes below it is not required to have the 2nd hammer assembly in the ready however it certainly is a convenience (especially for me as I'm not mechanically inclined however many CalGunners are). are some pics.

Picture of Factory N Frame hammer (with double action sear) next to Hammer that has the double action sear removed. Green Arrow shows the double action sear.

Remove grips and unscrew 4 screws as OP recommends (I only do screws 1, 2, and 3 here. I remove the 4th screw later. The first three hold the side plate. The 4th holds the leaf spring. Please make note of which screws come out of which holes as they are all different.

Now remove the side plate. See OPs notes on this from his original post. Tap the frame as noted with rubber gunsmith hammer or rubber screw driver.

Remove transfer bar safety and remove the 4th screw which will relieve the leaf spring (see prior pic for leaf spring).

Now the double action Hammer Assembly can be removed and replaced with the sear less Hammer (single action). Just drop it in.

Then reverse steps to put revolver back together. Start with the leaf spring and screw #4, put the transfer safety bar back in carefully so it will align with the side plate. Tap the side plate back on with your rubber tool. Affix your screws 1-3 and you are done. Finished product below...

Let me know how this works for folks!
I removed some photos to save space.

Although the above represents the "non-MIM" internals of Smiths most folks like to get in to CA, I suppose there are some MIM Smiths that are desirable too. There are slight differences, one helpful and the other a bit of a challenge.

The DA sear on newer MIM Smiths (using frame mounted firing pin) uses what I would call a geometric fit. It's not pinned and can be wiggled out easily. Just be careful to not lose the spring. I doubt there's any fitting of the DA sear to a specific revolver, so if it's lost another one should just drop in.

Although fiddling with it shouldn't be part of the DA to SA conversion, the hand spring in newer MIM revolvers is much different than the machined internals' version. It's not captured on the trigger, it doesn't stay in place if you remove the hand from the trigger. When I did my first MIM revolver I casually removed the hand and heard that God-awful "sproing" as it flew off to parts unknown. I found it, and thought that was a good thing, until I tried to refit the damn thing. It took a few hours of poking, bending, pushing, swearing and a tear or two before that "silly-straw" styled spring found its way back in to the trigger.

There are s few other changes that make viewing a YouTube on the MIM types worthwhile.

Last edited by dfletcher; 07-19-2018 at 3:28 PM..
Reply With Quote