[TackyDriver]

Sorry to come late to this party and would like to find out what the OP and Kestryll ended up with. There was some mention of Browning BARs and that made me want to share my experience. Hope it'll be helpful either now or for someone down the line.

I found myself in a similar situation. All of my hunting experience was either upland birds or small game using shotguns. About the time of my 50th birthday I thought a wild hog hunt would be a great way of saying "Bring it!" to my advancing age.

I was looking for suitable a rifle and ended up with a Browning BAR LongTrac in 30-06 for a really good price. The guy at the store said no one liked the "eurostyle" looks and were trying to close it out. I care about the looks of my target groups first, then the practicality for how I'll use it, then the firearm's appearance.

What I liked about it first was how it mounted like a shotgun. Anyone with a shotgun background should look for a rifle that mounts like a shotgun to ease the transition. This one reminded me of a Browning Auto 5 that I used to shoot a long time ago. When I found that the Longtrac came with tabs to adjust the buttstock drop as well as cast, like with a shotgun, it just kept getting better. The barrel length of 22" is very handy without sacrificing too much ballistic performance.

At the time I was subject to the "Hog Hype" mentioned above and wanted to shoot 180 grain bullets. This was just before the lead ban in the condor zone so I had more choices. My BAR really didn't like them but did great with 165 grain loads.

It took one hog at 130 yards while running away. The bullet entered just forward of the left hip and lodged in the skin just in front of the right shoulder. The second was an oncoming shot at 30 yards that entered just below and to the right of the left eye and stopped just short of the right shoulder at the end of the neck. I have no doubt that a .308 Win will work as well. For the most part, the 30-06 has an advantage over the 308 when using heavier bullets. Since my BAR doesn't seem to like the heavier bullets, there not much advantage over the 308.

It has been reliable and accurate. Loading the mag takes a little getting used to since it is attached to a swing down floor plate. You can carry an extra preloaded box mag but it is still tough for me to switch mags on the floor plate and keep my eyes on the target. On the other hand you can port load through the ejection port like a in a semi auto shotgun tactical drill. If I need more than 4 shots to get the job done, I belong at the range and not out hunting.

Since you are interested in the .308, you can get the BAR Shortrac which is the basis for the FNAR. It is possible to buy a kit which replaces the floor plate and allows you to use a regular box mag that inserts conventionally. I've been wanting to find out if you can replace the Shortrac barrel with one from the FNAR. Without a pistol grip you wouldn't have to have a mag lock and wouldn't be paying much more than some of the AR-10 clones.

One complaint is that the barrel is thin and whippy enough that barrel heat changes the point of impact. Once cooled the point of impact goes right back. At least that's how it is with mine. If I was using it for 3-gun instead of hunting it might be more of an issue.

The other is more of a minor pet peeve and that is the aluminum receiver. I know the aluminum alloys are better now but until I know better, I just don't trust aluminum's fatigue resistance to cyclic loads. For now it isn't much of an issue but I view my firearms as future heirlooms and want them to last, even when selling to someone else instead of handing them down. Eventually, I'll sell my Longtrac so that I can buy a BAR Safari with the steel receiver.

One thing you'll have to keep in mind is that there's a reason Outfitters prefer bolt actions: they work. With the BAR you will have to demonstrate that you know what you're doing with it so that they have confidence in your abilities. There's no prejudice, they just want you to have the best chance of being successful.

Everything that's been said about choosing a scope is valid. However, with hogs, if you're choosing a variable, make sure it has good low power properties. As a shotgun shooter for upland birds, you should be no stranger to jump shooting. That's more easily done with the scope at a low power setting.

The other thing is to make sure the scope has good light transmission properties. With the draught going on, I think more and more opportunities will be taking place in that half hour before sunrise or after sunset. I have a Weaver 2.5-10 x 50 mm. I've been happy with it. At the time, it was the only scope in the shop that went down to 2.5 power. It sorta looks like my BAR has clown shoes. However, it's strange looking through the scope at dusk and having to have my eyes get used to the dark after coming out from behind the scope.

I haven't been on a hog hunt for a while but I'm itching to get out and do it again. Hope anyone starting out has as much fun as I have had. For now, I need to find what non-lead loads my BAR likes. I don't reload so I'll have to save up my $$ for factory.