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-   -   P80 PF940C Build: Slide Not Cycling (https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1542372)

SandBlastedSkin 06-26-2019 7:04 PM

P80 PF940C Build: Slide Not Cycling
 
1 Attachment(s)
Got done with this build, sanded and polished the crap out of the rails, made sure I removed all necessary material and probably a little extra, took it out for its maiden voyage.... and it's single shot. lol

The slide doesn't even recoil enough to eject the round 98% of the time (it has ejected the round once out of about 50 attempted rounds so far).

I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. Spring rate? I don't know. There does seem to be a little friction still, but not enough where I'd think it has the chance to stop the recoil an inch into it's travel.

Here's a list of the relevant parts:

Lone Wolf Enhanced Trigger Parts Kit
Shadow Systems Slide Kit & Recoil Spring Assembly
L2D Slide
True Precision Barrel

Tried three different magazine, happened with every one.

A picture of about how far the slide gets every time is attached.

Anyone have any advice on what I should try? My next thought would be to start replacing the internals with standard Glock parts, but I'm not so sure that'd do the trick?

TIA

Troublez323 06-26-2019 8:42 PM

Its this the v2v or 1.5

SandBlastedSkin 06-27-2019 7:27 AM

Not sure. What's the difference? How can I tell?

shafferds 06-27-2019 8:24 AM

Use factory oem glock parts. Lone wolf parts are alot of the issue in these builds due to out of spec.

NoHeavyHitter 06-27-2019 10:48 AM

Make certain that you've fully removed all required material from the recoil spring channel. When you cycle it by hand, you should be able to detect drag or hang ups..

SandBlastedSkin 06-27-2019 9:10 PM

I really thought I have, but I may revisit it this weekend and take out a little more. If the slide only cycles about an inch, that makes it hard to believe it's an internal component issue, but that will definitely be my next step if it's not an interference issue.

ar15barrels 06-28-2019 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SandBlastedSkin (Post 23148883)
Got done with this build, sanded and polished the crap out of the rails, made sure I removed all necessary material and probably a little extra, took it out for its maiden voyage.... and it's single shot. lol

The slide doesn't even recoil enough to eject the round 98% of the time (it has ejected the round once out of about 50 attempted rounds so far).

I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. Spring rate? I don't know. There does seem to be a little friction still, but not enough where I'd think it has the chance to stop the recoil an inch into it's travel.

Here's a list of the relevant parts:

Lone Wolf Enhanced Trigger Parts Kit
Shadow Systems Slide Kit & Recoil Spring Assembly
L2D Slide
True Precision Barrel

Tried three different magazine, happened with every one.

A picture of about how far the slide gets every time is attached.

Anyone have any advice on what I should try? My next thought would be to start replacing the internals with standard Glock parts, but I'm not so sure that'd do the trick?

TIA

Use the process of elimination to figure out your problem.
You will need a complete factory Glock to swap parts with.
Start by stripping your frame down completely and installing ALL factory parts on it.
If that functions correctly, start introducing one suspect part at a time.
I would suggest the order to be slide, then the barrel, then the fire control group.
The problem should appear when you install the bad part.
The problem should go away when you remove the bad part and install a stock glock part.

AlHO1966 06-28-2019 11:13 AM

Switch to all factory parts, put extra lube on it, rack the slide by hand about 1000 times. That is if you’re not feeling friction while manually cycling the slide if you feel hang ups you probably need to remove more material from the recoil spring channel as you can see if you’ve removed enough from the rails.

Then if you want to use aftermarket parts install one at a time. But why not just run stock glock parts?

SandBlastedSkin 06-29-2019 5:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels (Post 23154146)
Use the process of elimination to figure out your problem.
You will need a complete factory Glock to swap parts with.
Start by stripping your frame down completely and installing ALL factory parts on it.
If that functions correctly, start introducing one suspect part at a time.
I would suggest the order to be slide, then the barrel, then the fire control group.
The problem should appear when you install the bad part.
The problem should go away when you remove the bad part and install a stock glock part.

Only problem with that is I would need a complete factory Glock, and I don't know anyone that has one that could loan it to me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlHO1966 (Post 23154281)
Then if you want to use aftermarket parts install one at a time. But why not just run stock glock parts?

If I knew then what I know now, I would have. I was unaware these third party kits would be a downgrade in quality.

Seems to me my next course of action is to see about removing a little more material, then if that doesn't work start replacing parts with OEM and hopefully that takes care of the issue.

mitch1 06-29-2019 7:45 AM

My opinion, polymer 80 had a lot of problems with the rear rails, contact them about this. The problems were in the bend at the rail causing binding.
What pound recoil spring did you get? There are 11# thru 22#, usually color coded on aftermarket. Also check and make sure the guide rod is not binding, both internally(spring retainer to shaft) and externally(where you milled the channel)
As for the V2 vs V1.5, you have a PF940C which are all V2

ar15barrels 06-29-2019 7:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SandBlastedSkin (Post 23156783)
Only problem with that is I would need a complete factory Glock, and I don't know anyone that has one that could loan it to me.

This is what's called a learning moment.

The normal practice when building guns is to have a completely functional factory sample as a reference.
Then you have a "known good" set of parts that you can take measurements and borrow parts to check fitting as you go through the build process.

You are basically working blind so you don't have a way to actually know for sure what part is the problem.
This normally results in cutting the wrong places and ending up with a scrapped reciever.
People will sometimes destroy 2 or 3 of them until they figure out the problem without a factory gun to compare against.

johnk518 06-29-2019 7:54 AM

have you checked the height of the takedown spring? They catch on the guide rod spring. File it down if so.

rights 06-29-2019 8:21 PM

Sand out the channel were the guide rod and spring go take off a little bit at a time had the same problem

SVT-40 06-30-2019 8:23 AM

Take some pic's of the recoil spring area, as in the pic's below. Many guys don't remove enough material as in the first pic. Make sure the recoil spring recess looks like the second two pics.

Also make sure the spring for the slide latch is pushed fully down into it's recess. None of it should be above the polymer where the recoil spring and guide seat. You may need to remove just a bit of the tail of this spring so it fully seats below the recoil spring and guide.



https://i177.photobucket.com/albums/...psxcsjbdnf.jpg

https://i177.photobucket.com/albums/...psi3nupupg.jpg

https://i177.photobucket.com/albums/...psnp04mtmc.jpg

BajaJames83 06-30-2019 9:10 AM

thats a hard guess as others said with nothing factory matching spec you have nowhere to start from.

Gutpile66 07-10-2019 8:19 PM

Install the front and rear rail "blocks" first and pin them in the frame. Do not install anything else in the frame. Then remove the RSA and barrel from the slide. Fit the slide to the frame. Should run like a skateboard. If not then install the slide but stop before the slide makes contact with the rear rails, keeping it square to the frame. If the slide runs free on the front rails then it's the rear rails that need work. Start on the outside edges get them smooth with a jeweler's file and 300 grit or less sandpaper. Shouldn't have to remove too much material. Try the slide again. Keep going 'till you get it running smooth.

Throw away all the LWD receiver parts, sorry.

Install your new gen 3 OEM receiver parts. If the slide doesn't run then reference the previous pics regarding the RSA clearance channel that you hogged out. And make sure the slide lock spring is seated correctly.

Still not running correctly then Randall has it right . . . it's probably the barrel/slide lockup.

You're pic shows the slide moved very little after a shot. If you've done all of the aforementioned I'd say it's your RSA is hanging up in the channel or on the slide lock spring.

PachecoFTW 07-11-2019 5:57 AM

I built 1, same frame and and all that but I used a completely demilled glock kit used 100% OEM parts and worked flawlessly. My freind bought all aftermarket 3lbs parts kit and some 500$ slide blah blah blah, and still couldnt get it to go through a whole mag before failures to fire, reset, and eject. After installing a suarez trigger shoe with OEM trigger bar, and glock( - )connector it ran fine. These builds are fairly inexpensive but when they have problems its hard to diagnose.
I agree with who ever says run OEM only then start swapping parts when it starts to dull you. Btw; I destroyed mine after that one law took effect. So I can't show pics of what was the frame.:(


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